2023 – it’s the year of the rabbit! In celebration of the Chinese New Year and the Year of the Rabbit, comes Barnaby the Rabbit free crochet pattern. This charming little bunny will be loved by you or the one you are making him for! He is dressed with a lovely pair of trousers and a scarf (both removable if you just want the bunny plain). And you’ll always find him nibbling on his carrot too!
Jump in with Barnaby now, or PIN the pattern for later here…
This pattern also has a supplemental video tutorial to crochet along with you for some of the more tricky bits like the ears and embroidery. You can find the video further along in this post!
This rabbit free crochet pattern is supported by ads on my blog. If you’d prefer to do some couch crocheting (like me!) you can find the 11-page PDF printable, ad-free pattern of Barnaby the Rabbit in my Etsy shop here.
Barnaby the Rabbit Free Crochet Pattern Notes & Tips:
This crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! The printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with LOTS of in-the-making photos for each step of the way as well.
This rabbit free crochet pattern is accompanied by a video tutorial to help you with some of the more tricky parts. If you’re more of a visual learner or want to check out this supplemental tutorial.
Size & Gauge:
Size: Barnaby will end up being 11″ tall. His carrot is about 10″ tall including the stem and leaves.
Gauge: 4”x4” of single crochet = 28 stitches x 30 rows. Ultimately with toys, gauge doesn’t matter. It won’t have to fit someone’s body or a specific space. My patterns will include the size of the finished toy based on the yarn and hook I use. But if you want it smaller or bigger, just use a bigger yarn and hook! Just remember, when crocheting toys, crochet tightly and choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn size recommends in order to avoid holes between each stitch where the stuffing will show through.
Yarn & Stuffing:
Yarn: Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I use 100% organic cotton yarn because I make these toys for my kids and need them to be functional. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and relatively inflexible so the toys don’t stretch and sag – even after being thrown across the house, down the stairs and adventured through every part of the garden!
Stuffing: Stuff more than you think you should. Not enough for the stitches to stretch and show holes, but enough to make the toy stiff and able to withstand the rough trials of toy life. The filling will compress a bit over time. I encourage you to use an alternative to poly-fill (unless it’s recycled!). Try using leftover yarn scraps and snippets or old non-donate-able clothes and materials cut into strips.
What makes this pattern eco -friendly and sustainable?
THE YARN: I use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn that has been ethically grown/raised and processed, putting the people and the planet first. This is why I chose Stylecraft’s organic versus conventional cotton for part of this pattern. The Rowan cotton yarn I use in this rabbit free crochet pattern isn’t organic, but Rowan as a company places a high emphasis on sustainable sourcing from ethical companies and implements environmentally sustainable practices throughout, so I feel good about supporting them by buying their yarn. You can read more about their brand values and sourcing policies on their website.
THE STUFFING: I used Hoooked 100% Recycled Fluffy Cotton Filling to stuff this toy. You can also use left over yarn snippets (save them all – they add up fast!) or old fiber you’ve cut into strips.
THE SLOW YARN MOVEMENT: I’m participating in the Slow Yarn Movement. There’s far too much to talk about here, but please take a few minutes to learn about what this means by reading the article I wrote about the Slow Yarn Movement as part of my Sustainable Crochet Series.
If you’re interested in learning more about sustainable crochet you can read all about it in the 6-part series I did covering everything about Sustainable Crochet and how to implement it into your own crafting starting today!
The Legal Stuff:
This pattern is for PERSONAL USE ONLY. This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, resold, distributed, published, altered, translated, posted or shared without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer using this verbiage, “This pattern was designed by Lindsey Roe and Off the Beaten Hook.” Thank you for your respectfulness!
This post contains affiliate links for materials I use and love. If you purchase something using one of these links I may earn a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my small business which allows me to provide you with free crochet patterns. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support!
Materials you will need for the Rabbit free crochet pattern:
- 100% Cotton | Weight: 3/DK/Light Worsted
- Rowan Summerlite DK
- Silver Blue (#468) – x2 | you’ll use approx. 175 yds / 65 grams
- Cecily (#477) – x1 | you’ll use approx. 50 yds / 20 grams
- Nutkin (#473) – x1 | you’ll use approx 20 yds / 7 grams
- Rowan Summerlite DK
- Stylecraft Naturals Organic Cotton DK
Other Materials & Tools:
- Crochet Hook: size 2.75 mm
- Safety Eyes: size 6 mm (x2)
- Tapestry Needle
- Stitch Markers
Abbreviations used in the Rabbit free crochet pattern:
ch – chain
st – stitch
hk – hook
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
fsc – foundation single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times
[…] – number of stitches in row/round
EARS – make 2:
- Refer to the video tutorial for help with embroidering and attaching the ears
- The ears are worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round
- You will crochet the ears, flatten them, and then embroider the pink inside
Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle 
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 
Rnd 3: sc around 
Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) x3 
Rnd 5: sc around 
Rnd 6: (sc 3, inc) x 3 
Rnd 7: sc around 
Rnd 8: (sc 4, inc) x3 
Rnd 9: sc around 
Rnd 10: (sc 5, inc) x 3 
Rnd 11-22: sc around 
Rnd 23: (sc 5, dec) x3 
Rnd 24: (sc 4, dec) x3 
Embroider and prepare the ears:
Using a tapestry needle and the pink yarn, embroider the pink inside the ears. Flatten and pinch the ears and sew them closed across the bottom. The embroidery and sewing of the ears is included in the video tutorial as well!
NOTE: The head is worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round.
Rnd 1: st 6 sc in a magic circle 
Rnd 2: inc in each st around 
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 
Rnd 4: sc around 
Rnd 5: (sc 2, inc) x6 
Rnd 6: sc around 
Rnd 7: (sc 3, inc) x6 
Rnd 8: sc around 
Rnd 9: (sc 4, inc) x6 
Rnd 10: sc around 
Rnd 11: (sc 5, inc) x6 
Rnd 12: sc around [42
Rnd 13: (sc 6, inc) x6 
Rnd 14: sc around 
Rnd 15: (sc 7, inc) x6 
Rnd 16: sc around 
Rnd 17-22: sc around 
ADD FACIAL FEATURES:
I demonstrate embroidering the nose, inserting the eyes and sewing on the ears in the video tutorial if you’d like some help with this!
NOSE: Using a tapestry needle and the pink yarn, embroider the nose by inserting the needle from inside to outside through the magic circle and back to the inside between rounds 3 and 4, using as your guide for the shape.
EYES: Insert safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, spaced by 20 stitches over the top of the nose.
EARS: Sew on the ears over rounds 21-24, spaced by about 6 stitches.
Continue with the head…
Rnd 23: (sc 7, dec) x6 
Rnd 24: (sc 6, dec) x6 
Rnd 25: (sc 5, dec) x6 
Rnd 26: (sc 4, dec) x6 
Rnd 27: (sc 3, dec) x6 
Rnd 28: (sc 2, dec) x6 
Rnd 29: (sc, dec) x6 
Stuff one last time.
Rnd 30: dec around 
Sl st in the next st and snip, leaving a long tail. Pull the tail through the final 2 loops. Using the yarn end and a tapestry needle, thread the yarn through the front loop only of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring the yarn to the inside and back out one of the side walls. Snip cleanly with the surface.
- Refer to the video tutorial for a demonstration on how to attach the collar to the neck prior to continuing on with the body beyond Rnd 2.
- The body is worked in continuous rounds from the neck down – do not join after each round
Begin by chaining 30, slip knot to the first ch to close the circle.
Rnd 1: sc around 
Rnd 2: (sc 4, inc) x6 
Sew the bunny neck to the underside of the head, centered over rounds 10-20:
Rnd 3-4: sc around 
Rnd 5: (sc 5, inc) x6 
Rnd 6-7: sc around 
Rnd 8: (sc 6, inc) x6 
Rnd 9-10: sc around
Rnd 11: (sc 7, inc) x6 
Rnd 12-14: sc around 
Rnd 15: (sc 8, inc) x6 
Rnd 16-27: sc around 
Rnd 28: (sc 8, dec) x6 
Rnd 29: sc around 
Rnd 30: (sc 7, dec) x6 
Rnd 31: sc around 
Rnd 32: (sc 6, dec) x6 
Rnd 33-34: sc around 
Split round 34 for the legs: There will be 16 st for each leg and 10 st for the gap in between – 5 from the front and 5 from the back.
It should be close already, but give or take a few stitches to position your hook at the back of the rabbit at the stitch just before the gap in the legs.
You now have your hook positioned for closing the gap between the legs. Holding the front and back together, sl st closed with 5 sl st. Then, Continue straight away to the first leg…
Rnd 35-37: sc around 
Rnd 38: (sc 2, dec) x4 
Rnd 39-40: sc around 
Rnd 41: (sc, dec) x4 
Sl st in the next st and snip, leaving a long tail. Pull the tail through the final 2 loops. Using the yarn end and a tapestry needle, thread the yarn through the front loop only of the remaining 8 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring the yarn to the inside and back out one of the side walls. Snip cleanly with the surface. Then, slip knot onto your hk and rejoin yarn on the inner back side of the second leg and repeat Rnd 35-41 for leg #2.
ARMS – make 2:
NOTE: The arms are worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round
Rnd 1: st 4 sc in a magic circle 
Rnd 2: inc in each st around 
Rnd 3-22: sc around 
Fasten off and sew closed. (I don’t stuff the arms because I like them to be flexible, but feel free to stuff!) Sew the arms to the sides of the body at Rnd 2.
Rnd 1: st 6 sc in a magic circle 
Rnd 2: inc in each st around 
Rnd 3-5: sc around 
Sl st to fasten and snip, leaving a long tail for sewing on. Stuff the tail and sew onto the bunny’s bum over rounds 27-31.
- The trousers are worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round (except Rnd 1)
- The chain 7 in Rnd 13 creates a hole where the tail pokes through. At this point, try the trousers on to be sure the hole is spaced appropriately compared to where you sewed the tail on. If needed, adjust the row where you make the chain 7 to fit properly.
Rnd 1: fsc 54. Join into a ring with a sl st, ch 1 
Rnd 2: sc around 
Rnd 3: (sc 8, inc) x6 
Rnd 4-11: sc around 
Rnd 12: (sc 8, dec) x6 
Rnd 13: ch 7, sk 7, sc around [47 + 7 ch]
Rnd 14-15: sc around 
Rnd 16: (sc 7, dec) x6 
Rnd 17-19: sc around 
Split Rnd 19 for the legs: There will be 19 st for each leg and 10 st for the gap in between – 5 from the front and 5 from the back.
It should be close already, but give or take a few stitches to position your hook at the back of the trousers at the stitch just before the gap in the legs. You now have your hook positioned for closing the gap between the legs. Holding the front and back together, sl st closed with 5 sl st. Fasten off and weave in end.
Make 2 suspenders: Chain 38 and tie onto trousers on the back. Before tying on, be sure your suspenders fit nice and snug. Add or remove chains as needed. Cross over each other, then bring over the shoulders and then tie onto front of trousers. Weave in ends.
Row 1: fsc 115 
Fasten off and weave in ends. Add fringe by cutting 6 lengths of yarn, about 5 inches each (3 for each side). Collect 3 yarns together and fold in half. Insert your hook at the end of the scarf and pull through the 3 strands altogether, about halfway down their length. Tuck the ends through the loop you just pulled through and pull to fasten. Repeat on other side.
- The stem and leaves are worked by making a long chain and working your way back down the chain – I recommend crocheting into the back bump of the chain as it’s look and feel are more tight and clean
- Use the Stylecraft Naturals Sea Green for the stem
Row 1: ch 30, sc in the 2nd ch from the hk, and in the next 7 ch, sl st in next 2 ch, (ch 9, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 7 ch, sl st in the next 2 ch along the stem) x3 for a total of 4 leaves. Sl st all the way back down the stem to the start of your chain.
Row 2: repeat row 1, except make a ch of 25 (rather than 30)
Row 3: repeat row 1, except make a ch of 20 (rather than 30)
Fasten off, leaving a tail of 4 inches.
Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle – when you close the circle, don’t pull it all the way tight yet because you’ll want a bit of a hole to pull the yarn tails for the stem through 
Rnd 2: inc in each st around 
Pull the stem yarn tails through the hole of the magic circle. Tighten the magic circle firmly. Grasping the magic circle tail and both of the tails of the stem, tie a knot as closely to the magic circle as possible. Knot it again.
Rnd 3-10: sc in each st around 
Rnd 11: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x3 
Rnd 12-19: sc in each st around 
Rnd 20: (sc in next st, dec in next st) x3 
Rnd 21-28: sc in each st around 
Rnd 29: dec around 
Pull yarn through last two loops and snip, leaving a 4 inch tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of the remaining 3 stitches. Fasten off. Snip, leaving 2 inches. Fray yarn end for root.
ADD LATERAL ROOT SCARS: Using a tapestry needle and a length of embroidery thread or a DK weight yarn split into two (4 strands each), weave your need into the carrot, towards the top and out the opposite side, then thread the needle back into the carrot, 2 stitches to the right or left. Continue this randomly several times over the carrot – about 10 – adding little bits of realistic root scars all around the outer skin. Pull gently with each one, so the root scars create little dimples, causing the carrot to become a bit bumpy all around.
Well done! I hope you had fun making this rabbit free crochet pattern. I would love to see your completed bunny rabbits! Please post pictures on instagram and tag me @offthebeatenhook and use #offthebeatenhook. Cheers!
WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO DO NOW? PIN this pattern for later, or check out more amigurumi patterns?
PIN FOR LATER:
HERE ARE SOME MORE FREE AMIGURUMI PATTERNS YOU MIGHT LIKE:
- Jellyfish free crochet pattern
- Tooth Fairy Pillow free crochet pattern
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One thought on “Rabbit Free Crochet Pattern – Barnaby the Bunny Rabbit”
[…] Make your charming little bunny with this free crochet Barnaby rabbit Pattern! This fun and easy pattern is dressed in a lovely pair of trousers and a scarf, perfect for any beginner or experienced crocheter. All you need are the materials listed in the pattern – it’s that simple! Show off your completed work in the comments section – we’d love to see them! So, create an adorable bunny companion with this amazing crochet pattern today. beatenhook […]