I grew up on the Pacific Ocean, so all things ocean and sea creatures are part of my soul. My son, although being raised inland, has the same fascination as I do. “Please make me a jellyfish next” he asked me. “ABSOLUTELY!” I replied, without a moment’s hesitation. I love it when he chooses things that I know I will love just as much as he does. And when I looked at the jellyfish upon completion, I knew it was just what we were looking for – charming, adorable, AND realistic. Then, when my son named her Jag, I fell in love. Her name couldn’t be more perfect. I hope you love this Jag the Jellyfish free crochet pattern as much as we do!

Jag’s inspiration comes from the Pacific Sea Nettle – one of the commonly found types of jellyfish found in the Pacific Ocean. Sea Nettles are also found in the Atlantic Ocean (Atlantic Sea Nettle). Sea Nettles have a distinct fat arm (commonly mis-identified as a tentacle) dangling down in between a plethora of skinny tentacles that adorn the margin of their bell. I always try to find a balance between an inviting character and a realistic interpretation of the major identifying features of the animal. I really think I hit that mark with this jellyfish free crochet pattern. I hope you agree!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the 7-page PDF printable, ad-free pattern of Jag the Jellyfish on my Etsy shop here.

General Notes:

This jellyfish free crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! The printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with LOTS of in-the-making photos for each step of the way as well.

Size & Gauge:

Size: Jag will end up being 21″ from top of head to tip of tentacle.

Gauge: 4”x4” of single crochet = 28 stitches x 30 rows. Ultimately with toys, gauge doesn’t matter. It won’t have to fit someone’s body or a specific space. My patterns will include the size of the finished toy based on the yarn and hook I use. But if you want it smaller or bigger, just use a bigger yarn and hook! Just remember, when crocheting toys, crochet tightly and choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn size recommends in order to avoid holes between each stitch where the stuffing will show through.

Yarn & Stuffing:

Yarn: Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I use 100% organic cotton yarn because I make these toys for my kids and need them to be functional. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and relatively inflexible so the toys don’t stretch and sag – even after being thrown across the house, down the stairs and adventured through every part of the garden!

It’s very important for me to use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn so I feel good about the impact I’m making on the environment with my craft. This is why I choose organic cotton versus conventional cotton.

Stuffing: Stuff more than you think you should. Not enough for the stitches to stretch and show holes, but enough to make the toy stiff and able to withstand the rough trials of toy life. The filling will compress a bit over time. I encourage you to use an alternative to poly-fill (unless it’s recycled!). Try using leftover yarn scraps and snippets or old non-donate-able clothes and materials cut into strips.

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, sold, distributed or translated without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer. Thank you for your respectfulness!

Materials you will need:

• Stylecraft Naturals Organic Cotton DK in MOONLIGHT – 2 balls (100% Organic Cotton / DK Light Worsted)
• Stylecraft Naturals Organic Cotton DK in SAGE – 1 ball (100% Organic Cotton / DK Light Worsted)
• Stylecraft Naturals Organic Cotton DK in CITRONELLE – 1 ball (100% Organic Cotton / DK Light Worsted)
• Crochet Hook Size: 3.00 mm
• Tapestry Needle
• Stitch Markers
• Scissors
• Safety Eyes – 12mm
• Stuffing

Abbreviations used in the jellyfish free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
hk – hook
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
fsc – foundation single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
tc – treble crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times
[…] – number of stitches in row/round

The Pattern

Notes:

• Jag is worked from the bell (head) down
• The bell and the tentacles are all worked in one piece. The big center arm is worked separately and sewn on.
• Round 12 & round 24 call for a “long single crochet”. Here are the “Long single crochet” instructions. You can also reference PHOTOS 02-05 (in the printable pattern): complete a single crochet, but rather than inserting your hook into the next st of the current row, you will insert your hook into the stitch a few rows immediately below the stitch and complete the single crochet over top the next one of the row (3 or 4 rows below as specified in the pattern below)

BELL:

Start with light blue yarn

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 11: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) x6 [66]

Switch to dark blue yarn

Rnd 12: (long sc in next st skipping 3 rows, sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) x6 [72]

Rnd 13: (sc in next 11 st, inc in next st) x6 [78]

Rnd 14: (sc in next 12 st, inc in next st) x6 [84]

Switch to yellow yarn

Rnd 15-16: sc in each st around [84]

Switch to light blue yarn

Rnd 17-23: sc in each st around.

Switch to yellow yarn

Rnd 24: (sc in next 5, long sc in next st skipping 4 rows) x14 [84]

Rnd 25: sc in each st around [84]

Rnd 26: (sc in next 12 st, dec in next st) x6 [78]

Rnd 27: (sc in next 11 st, dec in next st) x6 [72]

Rnd 28: FLO (sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, tc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st) x9 [72]

Switch to dark blue yarn (do not snip yellow – you will pick it up again in round 29)

Rnd 29: (sc in the next 7, sl st in the next st) x9 [72]

Invisible fasten and bring yarn to inside: Remove your hook from the loop and insert it back to front (inside to outside) through the next stitch, grap your loop and pull it to the inside. Snip the blue, and pull the yarn end through the loop and pull tightly to close. SEE “INVISIBLE FASTEN” (in the printable pattern)

Switch back to yellow: pick up yellow where you left off after round 28. For round 30, You’ll be working in the BACK LOOP ONLY of round 28 – the loop that you didn’t use when you were working in the FRONT LOOP ONLY during round 28.

Rnd 30: BLO of Rnd 28 (sc in the next 10, dec in the next st) x6 [66]

Insert safety eyes between rounds 25 & 26, spaced apart by 15 stitches. Embroider on 3 eyelashes for each eye branching out from the top corners of the eyes.

TENTACLES

Rnd 31: (sc in the next st, ch 100, sl st in each back bump down the chain back to the head, sc in the next 4 st, ch 100, sl st in each back bump down the chain back to the head, sc in the next 4 st, dec in the next st) x6 [60]

Switch to light blue yarn

Rnd 32: (sc in next 8 st, dec in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 33: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 34: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 35: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 36: (sc in next 4 st, dec in next st) x6 [30]

Start to stuff head

Rnd 37: (sc in next 3 st, dec in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 38: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x6 [18]

Finish stuffing head

Rnd 39: (sc in next st, dec in next st) x6 [12]

Rnd 40:(sc in the next st, dec in the next st) x6 [6]

Snip, leaving a tail. Using a tapestry needle and the yarn tail, weave the yarn through the front loop of each of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tightly to close.

CENTER ARM:

Begin with light blue yarn

Row 1: FDC 75, ch 1, turn [75]

Row 2: 3 sc in the next 30 st, 3 hdc in the next 25 st, 3 dc in the next 20 st, ch 1, turn [225]

Row 3: 3 dc in the next 50 st, 3 hdc in the next 35 st, 2 sc in the next 140 (rest of row), ch 1, turn [535]

Switch to dark blue yarn

Row 4 (contrast border): sc in the next 100 st, switch to light blue yarn, 2 hdc in the next 40, 2 dc in the next 395 (to end of row), ch 1, turn [970]

Switch back to dark blue yarn

Row 5: sc in each st until you meet back up with the row of dark blue you made in Row 4

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Just one more step and you’ll have completed this jellyfish free crochet pattern!

ATTACH THE ARM:

Using a tapestry needle and a length of light blue yarn, sew the arm onto the center of the underside of the bell of the jellyfish. You’ll want to weave the yarn in and out several times in order to secure part of the arm to the underside of the jellyfish. The arm is heavy and if you don’t secure it well, it will dangle precariously.

You’ll use a short section of the fattest part of the arm and sew it up under the jellyfish. Pull the yarn to the inside.

You did it! Stop and admire your skilllz!

I would love to see your completed jellyfish. Please post pictures on instagram and tag me @offthebeatenhook. Cheers!

Did you love this jellyfish free crochet pattern? Want more free amigurumi crochet patterns? Check these out!

• Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern
• Leaf Lettuce Free Crochet Pattern
• The Berry Patch Berry Bundle Free Crochet Pattern
• Lemon Free Crochet Pattern