Category: Resource Documents

Fern Shrug Cardigan – Free Crochet Pattern

This pattern uses a single crochet/half double crochet combo stitch that I love so much. I used this same combo stitch on my Tundra Cardigan which is also made with a rectangle for the main body. I loved it so much I designed this Fern Shrug Cardigan – Free Crochet Pattern using the same stitch and extended it’s use onto the sleeves. This shrug is so cute and versatile. I use Lion Brand Heartland acrylic yarn which has lots of color offerings. Green is my favorite color, so I wanted to make a sweater using the gorgeous Kings Canyon forest green. The yarn is also super soft and easy to work with. Give it a try if you never have before!

The Fern Shrug Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern is written for sizes XS through 3XL and is ready for the ambitious beginner. I hope you love it!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the full, printable, ad-free pattern of the Fern Shrug Cardigan with lots of helpful pictures and additional tips on my Etsy shop here!

You can also help yourself to a printable, ad-free copy of the Fern Shrug Cardigan – Free Crochet Pattern by subscribing to my blog and gaining instant access to my resource library which is full of printable patterns, printable resources (quick reference cards, guides, etc) and video tutorials.

Gauge:

4”x4” = 15 stitches x 14 rows

I encourage you to make a small rectangle swatch to be sure your gauge is correct. It’s also a good idea to measure now and again and try on the sweater as you go along. This will ensure it will fit right when it’s done!

Sizing:

This pattern is written in size XS/S with size S/M, M/L, L/XL, XL/2XL & 2XL/3XL following in parenthesis. The model pictured is wearing size XS with a bust of 34″.

Length (shoulder to hem):

XS/S: 24″
S/M: 26″
M/L: 28″
L/XL: 30″
XL/2XL: 32″
2XL/3XL: 34″

Bust:

XS/S: 32-34″
S/M: 34-36″
M/L: 36-40″
L/XL: 40-44″
XL/2XL: 44-48″
2XL/3XL: 48-52″

I also include a detailed sizing chart for the Fern Shrug Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern in the ad-free and fully printable 7-page PDF pattern here. The sizing chart includes all measurements in inches as well in stitch count for all sizes for the bust, length and sleeves so you can easily customize for your exact size.

Materials you will need:

• Lion Brand Yarns Heartland –
  • Kings Canyon – x6(7, 7, 8, 8, 8) 1506(1757, 1757, 2008, 2008, 2008) yards
• Crochet Hook Size: 6.00 mm / US J
• Tapestry Needle
• Stitch Markers
• Scissors

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
sk – skip
fhdc – foundation half double crochet
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
FLO – front loop only
[…] – number of stitches in row/round
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

The Pattern

Main Rectangle:

Notes:

• The main rectangle is worked in rows, turning at the end of each row
• The turning chain does not count as a stitch
• Wrong side (ws) is where the beginning and ending tails are on the side of your dominant hand when the rectangle is laying flat
• Tip: the sc/hdc pairs are made into the sc from the previous row (versus the hdc)
• Feel free to adjust the size of the main rectangle to best match your body. Use the gauge and the size chart on the printable version to determine measurements.

Row 1: fhdc 124(131, 138, 145, 152, 159)

Row 2-70(73, 76, 79, 82, 85): ch 1, turn, (sk next st, sc and hdc in next st) repeat to end of row

Row 71(74, 77, 80, 83, 86): hdc in each st across

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Seaming for armholes:

Lay the main rectangle flat with the wrong side facing up. The beginning and ending tails should be on the side of your dominant hand. Fold the rectangle in half hot-dog style (the longer sides together).

Beginning from the folded crease edge, measure 4.5″(4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5)and place a stitch marker. You may want to place several stitch markers to be sure your seaming will be accurate. Repeat on other side. This measured area will not be seamed together and is now the opening to the sleeves.

Beginning from the folded corners (the opposite side from where you began measuring at the crease), use a tapestry needle and seam the edge all the way up to the stitch marker. I recommend using the mattress stitch for seaming.

Unfold the rectangle and lay flat. You can now see the rectangle forming the main body of the cardigan – the back, the front edges and the arm holes. Place a stitch marker where bottom front edge of the cardigan meets the back bottom of the cardigan. This is where you will begin crocheting the collar. At this point, I also place a stitch marker anywhere along the outside of the cardigan to mark the right side to avoid confusion before continuing.

Collar:

• The collar is made by crocheting turning rows of hdc through the front loop only, turning at the end of each row. This is what creates the ribbing.

Rejoin yarn at the bottom front edge where you placed your stitch marker in the previous step.

Row 1: hdc around the entire front opening of the cardigan, sl st to first st

Row 2-18: ch 1, turn, FLO hdc across, sl st to first st

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Sleeves:

• The sleeves are crocheted directly onto the cardigan, using the same sc/hdc pair stitch as with the main rectangle
• The sleeves are made using turning rounds, slip stitching, chaining 1, and turning after each round
• Tip: the sc/hdc pairs are made into the sc from the previous row (versus the hdc)
• The sleeves should have approximately 40(42, 44, 46, 48, 50) stitches around based on the sleeve opening.
• Check the length of your sleeves as you near the end and add or subtract rows to achieve your desired length.

Rejoin yarn at sleeve opening as shown in. This feels like a weird place to start the round, but starting here will ensure the seam is not on the front of your sleeve, but rather underneath.

Rnd 1: ch 1, make 40(42, 44, 46, 48, 50) hdc evenly around the opening, sl st to first st in round – (you may need to try a couple times to get these stitches placed evenly around)

Rnd 2-41(42, 43, 44, 45, 46): ch 1, turn, (sk next st, sc and hdc in next st) repeat to end of row, ending in the last st of Rnd 1, sl st to first st in round

Try on the sweater and be sure you are happy with the length of the sleeves. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Congrats! Cozy up and enjoy your hard work. Let me know what you think!

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects your cost. These partnerships help me support my small business and allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

Want more free crochet patterns? Check these out!

• Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket – Free Crochet Pattern
• Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater – Free Crochet Pattern
• Diamond Ridge Throw Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern
• Seahorse Amigurumi – Free Crochet Pattern
• Milk Carton Amigurumi – Free Crochet Pattern

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater – Free Crochet Pattern

I named this Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern after the color of yarn I used. Am I allowed to do that? It just fit too perfectly. And since the majestic Mt Rainier is just on the other side of this beautiful Washington State from me, I just went with it. Let me know if I’m going to get in trouble and I’ll change it.

I had a vision for this sweater from the moment I laid my eyes on this gorgeous and SUPER FUN yarn by Lion Brand Yarns. It’s next-to-skin soft and perfectly lightweight. My vision for this sweater had the following requirements:

1. No seaming
2. No turning rounds – only continuous rounds
3. Puffed sleeves
4. Slightly cropped

NAILED IT!

The Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern is written for sizes XS through 2XL and is easily adjusted if you want it more cropped, less cropped, longer sleeves, shorter sleeves, totally short sleeves, whatever you fancy. Super easy, super approachable. Absolutely ready for the beginner too!

Have fun!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the full, printable, ad-free pattern of the Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater with lots of helpful pictures and additional tips on my Etsy shop here!

Gauge:

4”x4” = 14 stitches x 11 rows of HDC (3.5 stitches = 1″ / 2.75 rows = 1″)

I encourage you to make a small rectangle swatch to be sure your gauge is correct. It’s also a good idea to measure now and again and try on the sweater as you go along. This will ensure it will fit right when it’s done!

Sizing:

This pattern is written in size XS with size S, M, L, XL, 2XL following in parenthesis. The size can be easily modified by taking your measurements and adjusting the number of chains or rows. Use this sizing information or the gauge above to determine your custom measurements. The model pictured is wearing size XS with a bust of 34″.

Length (shoulder to hem):

XS: 19″
S: 21.5″
M: 24″
L: 27″
XL: 30.5″
2XL: 34″

Bust:

XS: 38″
S: 40″
M: 42″
L: 44″
XL: 46″
2XL: 48″

Sleeve Length:

XS: 25.5″
S: 25.5″
M: 26.75″
L: 26.75″
XL: 28″
2XL: 28″

I also include a detailed sizing chart for the Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern in the ad-free and fully printable 10-page PDF pattern here. The sizing chart includes all measurements in inches as well in stitch count for all sizes for the bust, length and sleeves so you can easily customize for your exact size.

Materials you will need:

• Lion Brand Yarns Heartland Tweed –
  • Mt Rainier Tweed – x6(6, 7, 7, 8, 8) 1200(1200, 1400, 1400, 1600, 1600) yards
• Crochet Hook Size: 6.00 mm / US J
• Tapestry Needle
• Stitch Markers
• Scissors
• Measuring Tape

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
st mk – stitch marker
sl st – slip stitch
hk – hook
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
BLO – back loop only
hdc inc – half double crochet increase
hdc dec – half double crochet decrease
[…] – number of stitches in row/round
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

The Pattern

Collar:

Collar notes:

• The ribbed collar is worked in rows, turning at the end of each row
• There is no right or wrong side
• The ribbing is made by crocheting in the back loop only (BLO)

Start by chaining 7

Row 1-48(48, 54, 54, 60, 60): BLO sc in 2nd ch from hk and next 5 [6]

To close circular collar, sl st in 1st st of row 1, and ch 1. Make sure collar is not twisted, then, holding the first and last row together, sl st through front loops of last row to back loops of first row, along each of the 6 stitches of the rows. Do not fasten as you will continue straight away with the body of the sweater.

Yoke:

Yoke notes:

• The yoke is worked in continuous rounds – do not turn at the end of each round
• Multiple increases will be made as you work your way around. ALWAYS MARK THE FIRST STITCH OF EACH INCREASE WITH A STITCH MARKER. Each time you come around, an increase will be made where the stitch marker is. With each increase, always move the stitch marker to the first stitch made for each increase. This way, you will not have to count your stitches in each round. However, for reference (or if you prefer to count each round), you can refer to the chart on page 7 of the printable pattern to be sure your stitch count is correct every now and again. The chart includes stitch counts for every size and every row!
• Before proceeding, slip the collar over your head and make sure you are happy with the size. If not, adjust up or down a size and then carry on.

Starting straight away from where you left off on the collar, ch 2 (counts as your first hdc)

Rnd 1: hdc in each st around [48](48, 54, 54, 60, 60)

Rnd 2: (hdc in next 5 st, hdc inc in next st) x8(8, 9, 9, 10, 10) [56](56, 63, 63, 70, 70)

You should now have 8(8, 9, 9, 10, 10) st markers along round 2.

Rnd 3-24(25, 27, 28, 30, 31): Continue to hdc around, placing a hdc inc where each of those st markers are. Continue in this way, moving your st mk to the first hdc inc st each time as explained in the notes above. [232](240, 264, 272, 296, 304)

Splitting for Sleeves:

You will now split the yoke into the body and the sleeves. You will no longer increase in any stitches at all. However, because I like to play it safe, I used several small pieces of brightly colored yarn to mark where the stitch markers were in case I needed to back up and adjust the size.

Lay the yoke out flat. You will now count stitches to split for the sleeves. Make sure where you left off on the yoke is at the armpit of one of the sleeves. For each sleeve, count 48(48, 56, 56, 64, 64) stitches around for each sleeve opening and mark with a stitch marker.

Body:

Body notes:

• The body is worked in continuous rounds – there is no increasing from this point forward
• There is no specific front or back side
• Feel free to adjust the length of the Rnd 1-14(21, 26, 30, 33, 35) section if you want the sweater longer or more cropped. Just use the gauge to determine how long or short (in inches) you ultimately want the sweater to be.

Join the body at the armpits: pick up where you left off on the yoke which should now be located at one of the armpits, join the front to back where you placed your stitch marker for the sleeve opening, making a hdc. Continue around to the opposite armpit where you placed your stitch marker for the other sleeve opening and join front and back, making a hdc. Continue on…

Rnd 1-14(21, 23, 24, 26, 27): hdc in each st around [136](144, 152, 160, 168, 176)

Rnd 15(22, 24, 25, 27, 28): (hdc in next 15 st, hdc dec in next st) x8(9, 10, 11, 12, 13) [128](136, 144, 152, 160, 168)

Rnd 16(23, 25, 26, 28, 29): hdc in each st around [128](136, 144, 152, 160, 168)

Rnd 17(24, 26, 27, 29, 30): (hdc in next 14 st, hdc dec in next st) x8(9, 10, 11, 12, 13) [120](128, 136, 144, 152, 160)

Rnd 18(25, 27, 28, 30, 31): hdc in each st around [120](128, 136, 144, 152, 160)

Rnd 19(26, 28, 29, 31, 32): (hdc in next 13 st, hdc dec in next st) x8(9, 10, 11, 12, 13) [112](120, 128, 136, 144, 152)

Rnd 20(27, 29, 30, 32, 33): hdc in each st around [112](120, 128, 136, 144, 152)

Rnd 21(28, 30, 31, 33, 34): (hdc in next 12 st, hdc dec in next st) x8(9, 10, 11, 12, 13) [104](112, 120, 128, 136, 144)

Rnd 22(29, 31, 32, 34, 35): hdc in each st around [104](112, 120, 128, 136, 144)

Hem

• The hem is made in the same manner as the collar, except it is a few stitches taller
• You will pick up right where you left off on the body, without fastening off

Start the hem by chaining 10

Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and next 8 st [9]

Row 2: sl st in next 2 st on hem from Rnd 22(29, 31, 32, 34, 35) above, ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to the bottom edge of the hem [9]

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to Rnd 22(29, 31, 32, 34, 35) [9]

Row 4+: repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around hem

Join first and last row of hem in same manner as joining collar. Fasten off. Weave in end.

Sleeves:

• The sleeves are made in continuous rounds – do not turn at the end of each round.
• To adjust the length of the sleeve, add or remove rows prior to decreasing before the cuff is made

Rejoin yarn at the armpit of one of the arm holes. Secure with a slip stitch.

Rnd 1-40(40, 44, 44, 48, 48): hdc in each st around [48](48, 56, 56, 64, 64)

Rnd 41(41, 45, 45, 49, 49): hdc dec around [24](24, 28, 28, 32, 32)

Do not fasten off – you’ll continue straight away to finish the cuffs…

Cuffs

• The cuffs are constructed in the exact same way as the hem – crocheting it directly onto the last round of the sleeve

Start the cuff by chaining 10

Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and next 8 st [9]

Row 2: sl st in next 2 st on sleeve from Rnd 41(41, 45, 45 49, 49) above, ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to the bottom edge of the hem [9]

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to Rnd 41(41, 45, 45 49, 49) [9]

Row 4+: repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around cuff

Join first and last row of cuff in same manner as joining hem. Fasten off. Weave in end.

Congratulations! You’re about to slip into what might end up being your new favorite go-to sweater!

And remember, you can always pick up a copy of the printable, ad-free copy of this Mt Rainer Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern from my Etsy shop here! Thank you for crocheting with me!

Want more free crochet patterns? Check these out!

• Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket – Free Crochet Pattern
• Seahorse Amigurumi – Free Crochet Pattern
• Milk Carton Amigurumi – Free Crochet Pattern

Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket – Free Crochet Pattern

The Pacific Northwest has my heart and soul. I feel super fortunate to have been born and raised here. One of my absolute favorite things about the great PNW is that we legitimately get all 4 seasons – especially over here in Spokane. After growing up in Bellingham, I’ll admit that my first Spokane winter was a bit of a shock. Even though I grew up skiing on Mt. Baker and I had NO IDEA there was snow like THIS… COLD, light, deep, POWDER. On the west side the snow is wet and heavy, so skiing the Eastern Washington mountains was SUCH a treat. I’ve been hooked ever since. Inspired by the COLD snowy winters of Spokane comes this Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Free Crochet Pattern! Deliciously soft (like next to skin approved!) and legitimately warm (like 30 degrees F outside approved!), this jacket is perfect for cozying up in on a chilly winter day.

I used Lion Brand Yarns Go for Fleece Sherpa yarn. I’ll be honest – I was skeptical at first because at first look you think, “that looks like a shedding disaster”. But I was 100% wrong. This fluffy, shaggy yarn doesn’t shed at all – AT ALL. So don’t be deterred! I will mention, however, that you should be prepared for the fact that you cannot see your stitches. The yarn is so textured that you have to feel for your stitches. But don’t let that scare you – the yarn is jumbo and you use a big, size 15.00mm hook so you have plenty of room to feel for the stitches. You can do it!

I’ll jump right in to the free pattern!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the full, printable, ad-free pattern of the Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket with lots of helpful pictures and additional tips on my Etsy shop here!

Gauge:

4”x4” = 6 stitches x 3 rows (1.5 stitches = 1″ / 1 row = 1.3″)

I encourage you to make a small rectangle swatch to be sure your gauge is correct. It’s also a good idea to measure now and again and try on the jacket as you go along. This will ensure it will fit right when it’s done!

Sizing:

This pattern is written in size XS with size S, M, L, XL, 2XL following in parenthesis. The size can be easily modified by taking your measurements and adjusting the number of chains or rows. Use this sizing information or the gauge above to determine your custom measurements. The model pictured is wearing size XS with a bust of 34″.

Length (shoulder to hem):

XS: 22″
S: 24.75″
M: 27.25″
L: 30″
XL: 32.5″
2XL: 34″

Bust:

XS: 36″
S: 40″
M: 44″
L: 48″
XL: 52″
2XL: 56″

Sleeve Length:

XS: 22″
S: 22″
M: 23.5″
L: 23.5″
XL: 24.75″
2XL: 24.75″

Materials you will need:

• Lion Brand Yarns “Go For Fleece Sherpa” –
  • Pearl Grey – x7(7, 9, 9, 11, 11) 623(623, 801, 801, 979, 979) yards
• Crochet Hook Size: 15.00 mm / US Q-19
• Tapestry Needle
• Stitch Markers
• Scissors
• Measuring Tape
• 4-6 large buttons (optional)

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
sk – skip
hk – hook
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
dc2tog – double crochet 2 together (decrease)
[…] – number of stitches in row/round
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

The Pattern

Back panel:

Front & back panel notes:

• The front & back panels are worked in rows, turning at the end of each row
• The turning chain counts as a stitch
• There is no right or wrong side
• You cannot see your stitches when using this textured yarn – you have to feel for them. As such, I recommend counting your stitches after every few rows to be sure you haven’t accidentally added one or left one out. You might also want to place a stitch marker in the top loop of your turning chain so it’s easier to find on your way back down the row. Remember, the turning chain counts as a stitch!
• Feel free to adjust the size of the panels to best match your body. Use the gauge and the size chart guide above to determine measurements. By doing this, it’s super easy to adjust the size of this Yeti Sherpa Jacket Free Crochet Pattern to fit you perfectly.

Start by chaining 29(32, 35, 38, 41, 44)

Row 1: sk 2 ch from hk, dc in each st across [27](30, 33, 36, 39, 42)

Row 2-17(19, 21, 23, 25, 27): turn, ch 2, sk first st, dc in each st across [27](30, 33, 36, 39, 42)

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Front Panels:

Start by chaining 14(17, 20, 23, 26, 29)

Row 1: sk 2 ch from hk, dc in each st across [12](15, 18, 21, 24, 27)

Row 2-17(19, 21, 23, 25, 27): turn, ch 2, sk first st, dc in each st across [12](15, 18, 21, 24, 27)

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Hood:

• The hood is made by crocheting a rectangle in turning rows, just like the jacket panels and then folding it in half, seaming it, and sewing it onto the jacket.
• One size hood for all jacket sizes

Start by chaining 32

Row 1: sk 2 ch from hk, dc in each st across [30]

Row 2-12: turn, ch 2, sk first st, dc in each st across [30]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming along one edge.

You’re almost done making your Yeti Sherpa Jacket Free Crochet Pattern! Now, just assembly and seaming left…

Assembly & Seaming

• The back panel, front panels and hood will be assembled together first. Then, the sleeves will be crocheted directly onto the jacket.
• I recommend using the mattress stitch to seam pieces together, but you can use whichever method you prefer. Just remember to be sure you are grabbing two loops over the tapestry needle when you seam together to ensure a nice strong seam.

Start by seaming the hood:

Fold the hood rectangle in half with the ends of the rows together, laying horizontally (hamburger style). Using the long tail, seam together back along the last row you crocheted. If you want a more rounded tip on your hood, cut in a couple inches from the end of the fold and crochet through the hood diagonally back and forth a couple times. Fasten off. Keep hood turned inside out for seaming onto jacket.

Now, lay the front panels on top of the back panel. Technically, there is no right or wrong side, so just choose which side you want to be the outside and make sure those sides are facing in. You will seam everything together and then turn the jacket right-side-out afterwards.

Next, seam up the sides:

Place a stitch marker to mark the arm holes. Allow 5(5, 6, 6, 7, 7) rows from the top to remain open for the arm holes. Beginning at the bottom of the panels, seam each side up towards the armpits, stopping at the stitch marker. Repeat with the other side.

Next, seam along the shoulders:

Work from the outside in, towards the neck. Seam together only about 2/3 of the way in towards the neck – saving room to add on the hood. Do this on both sides/shoulders. Fasten off.

Finally, seam the hood onto the jacket:

Be sure the hood is still inside-out. Line the hood up along the top of the jacket. The center of the neck of the hood should be lined up at the exact center of the back panel. The seam of the hood will then extend out along the back of the neck, around the top of the open portion of the front panels (the portion of the shoulder that you did not seam completely onto the back panel) and down along a short portion of the front of the front panels. Use stitch markers to line up the hood in the way it is described here. Then, seam the hood onto the jacket.

Turn the jacket right-side-out. Lastly, sc a row around the border of the opening, starting at the front left corner, up around the hood and ending on the other bottom corner. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

Sew on the buttons: space buttons as desired (I spaced them by 3 rows in between) and sew them securely on. To fasten, simply slip them in between 2 double crochet stitches on the opposite side.

You’re done! Wrap yourself up in your cozy Yeti Sherpa Jacket Free Crochet Pattern and let me know how it went for you!

And remember, you can always pick up a copy of the printable, ad-free copy of this Yeti Sherpa Jacket Crochet Pattern from my Etsy shop here! Your support means so much to me and allows me to continue to provide you with free crochet patterns and resources, so thank you!

Want more free crochet patterns? Check these out!

• Seahorse Amigurumi – Free Crochet Pattern
• Milk Carton Amigurumi – Free Crochet Pattern