I named this Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern after the color of yarn I used. Am I allowed to do that? It just fit too perfectly. And since the majestic Mt Rainier is just on the other side of this beautiful Washington State from me, I just went with it. Let me know if I’m going to get in trouble and I’ll change it.
I had a vision for this sweater from the moment I laid my eyes on this gorgeous and SUPER FUN yarn by Lion Brand Yarns. It’s next-to-skin soft and perfectly lightweight. My vision for this sweater had the following requirements:
- No seaming
- No turning rounds – only continuous rounds
- Puffed sleeves
- Slightly cropped
The Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern is written for sizes XS through 2XL and is easily adjusted if you want it more cropped, less cropped, longer sleeves, shorter sleeves, totally short sleeves, whatever you fancy. Super easy, super approachable. Absolutely ready for the beginner too!
This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the full, printable, ad-free pattern of the Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater with lots of helpful pictures and additional tips on my Etsy shop here!
4”x4” = 14 stitches x 11 rows of HDC (3.5 stitches = 1″ / 2.75 rows = 1″)
I encourage you to make a small rectangle swatch to be sure your gauge is correct. It’s also a good idea to measure now and again and try on the sweater as you go along. This will ensure it will fit right when it’s done!
This pattern is written in size XS with size S, M, L, XL, 2XL following in parenthesis. The size can be easily modified by taking your measurements and adjusting the number of chains or rows. Use this sizing information or the gauge above to determine your custom measurements. The model pictured is wearing size XS with a bust of 34″.
Length (shoulder to hem):
I also include a detailed sizing chart for the Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern in the ad-free and fully printable 10-page PDF pattern here. The sizing chart includes all measurements in inches as well in stitch count for all sizes for the bust, length and sleeves so you can easily customize for your exact size.
Materials you will need:
- Lion Brand Yarns Heartland Tweed –
- Mt Rainier Tweed – x6(6, 7, 7, 8, 8) 1200(1200, 1400, 1400, 1600, 1600) yards
- Crochet Hook Size: 6.00 mm / US J
- Tapestry Needle
- Stitch Markers
- Measuring Tape
Abbreviations used in this pattern:
ch – chain
st – stitch
st mk – stitch marker
sl st – slip stitch
hk – hook
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
BLO – back loop only
hdc inc – half double crochet increase
hdc dec – half double crochet decrease
[…] – number of stitches in row/round
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times
- The ribbed collar is worked in rows, turning at the end of each row
- There is no right or wrong side
- The ribbing is made by crocheting in the back loop only (BLO)
Start by chaining 7
Row 1-48(48, 54, 54, 60, 60): BLO sc in 2nd ch from hk and next 5 
To close circular collar, sl st in 1st st of row 1, and ch 1. Make sure collar is not twisted, then, holding the first and last row together, sl st through front loops of last row to back loops of first row, along each of the 6 stitches of the rows. Do not fasten as you will continue straight away with the body of the sweater.
- The yoke is worked in continuous rounds – do not turn at the end of each round
- Multiple increases will be made as you work your way around. ALWAYS MARK THE FIRST STITCH OF EACH INCREASE WITH A STITCH MARKER. Each time you come around, an increase will be made where the stitch marker is. With each increase, always move the stitch marker to the first stitch made for each increase. This way, you will not have to count your stitches in each round. However, for reference (or if you prefer to count each round), you can refer to the chart on page 7 of the printable pattern to be sure your stitch count is correct every now and again. The chart includes stitch counts for every size and every row!
- Before proceeding, slip the collar over your head and make sure you are happy with the size. If not, adjust up or down a size and then carry on.
Starting straight away from where you left off on the collar, ch 2 (counts as your first hdc)
Rnd 1: hdc in each st around (48, 54, 54, 60, 60)
Rnd 2: (hdc in next 5 st, hdc inc in next st) x8(8, 9, 9, 10, 10) (56, 63, 63, 70, 70)
You should now have 8(8, 9, 9, 10, 10) st markers along round 2.
Rnd 3-24(25, 27, 28, 30, 31): Continue to hdc around, placing a hdc inc where each of those st markers are. Continue in this way, moving your st mk to the first hdc inc st each time as explained in the notes above. (240, 264, 272, 296, 304)
Splitting for Sleeves:
You will now split the yoke into the body and the sleeves. You will no longer increase in any stitches at all. However, because I like to play it safe, I used several small pieces of brightly colored yarn to mark where the stitch markers were in case I needed to back up and adjust the size.
Lay the yoke out flat. You will now count stitches to split for the sleeves. Make sure where you left off on the yoke is at the armpit of one of the sleeves. For each sleeve, count 48(48, 56, 56, 64, 64) stitches around for each sleeve opening and mark with a stitch marker.
- The body is worked in continuous rounds – there is no increasing from this point forward
- There is no specific front or back side
- Feel free to adjust the length of the Rnd 1-14(21, 26, 30, 33, 35) section if you want the sweater longer or more cropped. Just use the gauge to determine how long or short (in inches) you ultimately want the sweater to be.
Join the body at the armpits: pick up where you left off on the yoke which should now be located at one of the armpits, join the front to back where you placed your stitch marker for the sleeve opening, making a hdc. Continue around to the opposite armpit where you placed your stitch marker for the other sleeve opening and join front and back, making a hdc. Continue on…
Rnd 1-14(21, 23, 24, 26, 27): hdc in each st around (144, 152, 160, 168, 176)
Rnd 15(22, 24, 25, 27, 28): (hdc in next 15 st, hdc dec in next st) x8(9, 10, 11, 12, 13) (136, 144, 152, 160, 168)
Rnd 16(23, 25, 26, 28, 29): hdc in each st around (136, 144, 152, 160, 168)
Rnd 17(24, 26, 27, 29, 30): (hdc in next 14 st, hdc dec in next st) x8(9, 10, 11, 12, 13) (128, 136, 144, 152, 160)
Rnd 18(25, 27, 28, 30, 31): hdc in each st around (128, 136, 144, 152, 160)
Rnd 19(26, 28, 29, 31, 32): (hdc in next 13 st, hdc dec in next st) x8(9, 10, 11, 12, 13) (120, 128, 136, 144, 152)
Rnd 20(27, 29, 30, 32, 33): hdc in each st around (120, 128, 136, 144, 152)
Rnd 21(28, 30, 31, 33, 34): (hdc in next 12 st, hdc dec in next st) x8(9, 10, 11, 12, 13) (112, 120, 128, 136, 144)
Rnd 22(29, 31, 32, 34, 35): hdc in each st around (112, 120, 128, 136, 144)
- The hem is made in the same manner as the collar, except it is a few stitches taller
- You will pick up right where you left off on the body, without fastening off
Start the hem by chaining 10
Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and next 8 st 
Row 2: sl st in next 2 st on hem from Rnd 22(29, 31, 32, 34, 35) above, ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to the bottom edge of the hem 
Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to Rnd 22(29, 31, 32, 34, 35) 
Row 4+: repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around hem
Join first and last row of hem in same manner as joining collar. Fasten off. Weave in end.
- The sleeves are made in continuous rounds – do not turn at the end of each round.
- To adjust the length of the sleeve, add or remove rows prior to decreasing before the cuff is made
Rejoin yarn at the armpit of one of the arm holes. Secure with a slip stitch.
Rnd 1-40(40, 44, 44, 48, 48): hdc in each st around (48, 56, 56, 64, 64)
Rnd 41(41, 45, 45, 49, 49): hdc dec around (24, 28, 28, 32, 32)
Do not fasten off – you’ll continue straight away to finish the cuffs…
- The cuffs are constructed in the exact same way as the hem – crocheting it directly onto the last round of the sleeve
Start the cuff by chaining 10
Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and next 8 st 
Row 2: sl st in next 2 st on sleeve from Rnd 41(41, 45, 45 49, 49) above, ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to the bottom edge of the hem 
Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to Rnd 41(41, 45, 45 49, 49) 
Row 4+: repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around cuff
Join first and last row of cuff in same manner as joining hem. Fasten off. Weave in end.
Congratulations! You’re about to slip into what might end up being your new favorite go-to sweater!
And remember, you can always pick up a copy of the printable, ad-free version of this Mt Rainer Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern from my Etsy shop here! Thank you for crocheting with me!
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