Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern – Cinnamon the Grizzly Bear

Cinnamon the grizzly bear is the most uncommon and special teddy bear crochet pattern you’ll find! Hailing from the Canadian Rocky Mountains, Cinnamon cozies up in his scarf, mittens and hat to keep him warm before winter comes. Bring him to life in this free teddy bear crochet pattern!

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin

Years back, my husband and I lived for several months in the beautiful Calgary, British Columbia, Canada. During our time there we backpacked over 100 miles in the Canadian Rocky Mountain backcountry just west of Calgary. And I’m telling you first-hand, “lions and tigers and BEARS, OH MY” is REAL…at least the BEARS part. I have never seen so many bears in my life. There was ONE day I counted no less than 8 bears.

But one bear in-particular stands out in my memory – a HUGE male grizzly bear. He was at least 7 feet long. He was the exact color of Cinnamon. And he was gorgeous. Here’s an actual photo of him that we took:

So in honor of this grand and respected creature, Cinnamon the grizzly teddy bear is born. Although he might not be as powerful and intimidating as his real-life counterpart, Cinnamon highlights the cute and cuddly side of these awesome animals.

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the 11-page PDF printable, ad-free pattern of Cinnamon the Grizzly on my Etsy shop here.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Preview Image

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Notes & Tips:

This teddy bear free crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! The printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with LOTS of in-the-making photos (40 of them!) for each step of the way as well.

Size & Gauge:

Size: Cinnamon will end up being 10″ tall.

Gauge: 4”x4” of single crochet = 28 stitches x 30 rows. Ultimately with toys, gauge doesn’t matter. It won’t have to fit someone’s body or a specific space. My patterns will include the size of the finished toy based on the yarn and hook I use. But if you want it smaller or bigger, just use a bigger yarn and hook! Just remember, when crocheting toys, crochet tightly and choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn size recommends in order to avoid holes between each stitch where the stuffing will show through.

Top 10 under $10 Sustainable Yarns Image Stylecraft naturals Organic Cotton DK Yarn

Yarn & Stuffing:

Yarn: Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I use 100% organic cotton yarn because I make these toys for my kids and need them to be functional. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and relatively inflexible so the toys don’t stretch and sag – even after being thrown across the house, down the stairs and adventured through every part of the garden!

It’s very important for me to use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn so I feel good about the impact I’m making on the environment with my craft. This is why I choose organic cotton versus conventional cotton.

Stuffing: Stuff more than you think you should. Not enough for the stitches to stretch and show holes, but enough to make the toy stiff and able to withstand the rough trials of toy life. The filling will compress a bit over time. I encourage you to use an alternative to poly-fill (unless it’s recycled!). Try using leftover yarn scraps and snippets or old non-donate-able clothes and materials cut into strips.

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, sold, distributed or translated without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer. Thank you for your respectfulness!

Your Guide to Eco-Friendly and Sustainable Crochet Image Heart Yarn
This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my blog and small business which allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

Materials you will need for this crochet pattern:

Abbreviations used in the teddy bear free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
hk – hook
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
fhdc – foundation half double crochet
fdc – foundation double crochet
DcBo – double crochet bobble stitch
BLO – back loop only
inc – increase
dec – decrease
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times
[…] – number of stitches in row/round

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image bare

The Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern:

Notes:

  • Cinnamon and his parts are worked in continuous rounds – do not join after rounds unless otherwise stated

Ears – make 2:

Use the brown yarn.

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-6: sc in each st around [12]

Fasten with a sl st. Snip, leaving a long tail for sewing on.

Snout:

The snout is worked in continuous rounds – do not join rounds.

Use the brown yarn.

Rnd 1: st 5 in a magic circle [5]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [10]

Rnd 3: BLO sc in each at around [10]

Rnd 4: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 8 st [12]

Rnd 5: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 9 st [13]

Rnd 6: sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 9 st [14]

Rnd 7: sc in next 3 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 9 st [16]

Rnd 8: sc in next 4 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 10 st [18]

Rnd 9: sc in next 5 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 11 st [20]

Fasten with a sl st. Snip, leaving a long tail for sewing on.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image 1

EMBROIDER THE NOSE & MOUTH:

NOSE: Using black DK weight yarn doubled up through a tapestry needle, begin your embroidery of the the nose by inserting your needle through the middle of the magic circle inside to outside. Insert it back to the inside through a stitch directly on the left of the nose between rounds 3 and 4. Repeat on the opposite side of the nose – you now have the bottom edge of the nose. Repeat threading your needle through the magic circle and back through stitches between rounds 3 and 4 all the way over the bridge of the nose. About half way through, switch to the opposite side and work my way back to the middle to be sure everything lines up properly.

MOUTH: Continue on with the mouth; after threading the needle out of the magic circle, insert the needle directly underneath the nose between rounds 4 and 5. Bring the needle back out between rounds 6 and 7 – 2 stitches back from the edge of the nose. Repeat on opposite side. Tie off on the inside of the nose and stuff in the tail ends.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image 2

HEAD & BODY:

The head and body are worked in continuous rounds – do not join rounds.

Use the brown yarn.

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 10-20: sc in each st around [54]

Rnd 21: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 22: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 23: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) x6 [36]

  • Stuff the snout and sew it to the head over rounds 14-22
  • Insert the safety eyes to the left and right of the snout between rounds 15 & 16
  • Flatten the ears and sew to the head over rounds 4-9 centered over the top of the head, using the snout as your guide for the center of the face

Rnd 24: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 25: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 26: sc in each st around [48]

Rnd 27: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 28-29: sc in each st around [54]

Rnd 30: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) x6 [60]

Stuff head.

Rnd 31-45: sc in each st around [60]

Rnd 46: (sc in next 8 st, dec in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 47: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 48: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 49: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) x6 [36]

Stuff body.

Split your work for the legs: there will be 15 stitches for each leg and 6 stitches in the gap (3 in front and 3 in back). Use stitch markers to mark these stitches, being sure to center them to the face of the bear.

If needed, make or remove a couple of sc to get to your starting point for the left leg. Your starting point will be at the back of the left leg, just to the right of the stitch marker. Join the back to the front by completing a single crochet (this is the first sc of round 50).

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image 3

LEGS:

LEFT LEG:

Rnd 50-57: sc in each st around [15]

Rnd 58: sc in next 5 st, dec in next st, sc in next 8 st [14]

Rnd 59: sc in next 3 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 7 st [12]

Rnd 60: sc in next 2 st, inc in next 4 st, sc in next 6 st [16]

Rnd 61: sc in next 5 st, inc in next 4 st, sc in next 7 st [20]

Rnd 62-63: sc in each st around [20]

Rnd 64: sc in next 2 st, (dec in next st, sc in next st) x6 [14]

Stuff leg & foot.

Rnd 65: dec in each st around [7]

Snip, leaving a tail for closing the circle. Using the yarn tail and a tapestry needle, weave the yarn through the front loop of each remaining 7 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring the yarn to the inside.

Finish stuffing the body.

RIGHT LEG:

Leaving a long starting tail, slip knot onto your hk and rejoin on the back side in the stitch to the left of the stitch marker, marking the second leg (3 stitches away from the left leg.

Rnd 50: sc in the next 15 st [15]

Rnd 51: join the front and back side by completing a sc, sc in the next 14 st [15]

Rnd 52-57: sc in each st around [15]

Rnd 58: sc in next 9 st, dec in next st, sc in next 4 st [14]

Rnd 59: sc in next 8 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 2 st [12]

Rnd 60: sc in next 7 st, inc in next 4 st , sc in next st [16]

Rnd 61: sc in next 9 st, inc in next 4 st, sc in next 3 st [20]

Rnd 62-63: sc in each st around [20]

Rnd 64: sc in next 2 st, (dec in next st, sc in next st) x6 [14]

Stuff leg & foot.

Rnd 65: dec in each st around [7]

Snip, leaving a tail for closing the circle. Using the yarn tail and a tapestry needle, weave the yarn through the front loop of each remaining 7 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring the yarn to the inside.

Finish stuffing body through the gap between legs. Using the long starting yarn tail from Rnd 50 of right leg, and a tapestry needle, sew closed the gap between the legs. Bring yarn to inside and snip.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image tail

ARMS:

The arms are worked in continuous rounds – do not join rounds.

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-18: sc in each st around [12]

Fasten with a sl st, leaving a long tail for sewing on. Stuff arms, leaving about a 1/2 inch to the top unstuffed, or else the arms won’t lay down – they’ll stick straight out. Sew the arms closed, and sew them to the sides of the body at round 24.

TAIL:

The tail is worked in continuous rounds.

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-5: sc in each st around [12]

Fasten with a sl st, leaving a long tail for sewing on. Stuff tail and sew to the back of the body, centered, over rounds 43-46.

SCARF:

For every round on the scarf, sl st to join each round and ch 1 before beginning the next round.

Start with off-white yarn

Rnd 1: fhdc 45, join into a ring with a sl st, ch 1 [45]

Rnd 2: hdc in each st around [45]

Switch to navy blue yarn.

Rnd 3-6: hdc in each st around [45]

Switch to off-white yarn.

Rnd 7-8: hdc in each st around [45]

Fasten off and weave in end.

Just a couple more accessories and your teddy bear free crochet pattern will be complete!

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image scarf

HAT:

Make a small, 1.5″ pom-pom with the blue yarn. If you need help, you will find a video tutorial on my website on how to make a pom-pom. You don’t need any additional tools, but a pom-pom maker is helpful.

Start with the blue yarn

Rnd 1: fdc 40, ch 1, turn [40]

Rnd 2: (fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st) around [40]

Switch to citronelle yarn

Rnd 3-4: hdc in each st around [40]

Switch to blue yarn

Rnd 5-6: hdc in each st around [40]

Switch to citronelle yarn

Rnd 7: hdc in next 11 st, ch 6, sk next 6 st, hdc in next 6 st, ch 6, sk next 6 st, hdc in next 11 st [40]

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image hat

Switch to blue yarn

Rnd 8: (hdc in next 6 st, dec hdc in next st) x5 [35]

Rnd 9: hdc in each st around [35]

Switch to citronelle yarn

Rnd 10: (hdc in next 5 st, dec hdc in next st) x5 [30]

Rnd 11: hdc in each st around [30]

Switch to blue yarn

Rnd 12: (hdc in next 4 st, dec hdc in next st) x5 [25]

Rnd 13: hdc in each st around [25]

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image accessories

Switch to citronelle

Rnd 14: (hdc in next 3 st, dec hdc in next st) x5 [20]

Rnd 15: hdc in each st around [20]

Sl st to next st. Snip leaving a long yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail in and out around each of the posts of rnd 15 (front to back under one, back to front under the next, etc, all the way around). Pull tail to close. Bring yarn to inside and fasten off.

Pull the yarn tails of the pom-pom through the center top hold of the hat. Grab hold of the yellow yarn tail from the hat, along with the 2 yarn tails from the pom-pom and knot them tightly on the inside of the hat, as close to the inside tip of the hat as possible. Knot it again.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image mitten

MITTENS:

Use the citronelle yarn

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: hdc inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-4: hdc in each st around [12]

Rnd 5: 5-DcBo in next st, hdc in next 11 st [12]

Rnd 6: hdc in each st around, sl st to join rnd, ch 1 [12]

Rnd 7: dc in each st around [12]

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image close up

You’re done! Finally, put on his cozy scarf, his hat and his little mittens. Look at Cinnamon! Isn’t he so cozy and cuddly?

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image put together

You did it! Stop and admire your little teddy bear crochet masterpiece!

I would love to see your completed Cinnamon bears. Please post pictures on instagram and tag me @offthebeatenhook. Happy hooking!

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Resource Library Graphic

Did you love this teddy bear free crochet pattern? Want more free amigurumi crochet patterns? Check these out!

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 6

Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern – Jag the Sea Nettle

I grew up on the Pacific Ocean, so all things ocean and sea creatures are part of my soul. My son, although being raised inland, has the same fascination as I do. “Please make me a jellyfish next” he asked me. “ABSOLUTELY!” I replied, without a moment’s hesitation. I love it when he chooses things that I know I will love just as much as he does. And when I looked at the jellyfish upon completion, I knew it was just what we were looking for – charming, adorable, AND realistic. Then, when my son named her Jag, I fell in love. Her name couldn’t be more perfect. I hope you love this Jag the Jellyfish free crochet pattern as much as we do!

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin

Jag’s inspiration comes from the Pacific Sea Nettle – one of the commonly found types of jellyfish found in the Pacific Ocean. Sea Nettles are also found in the Atlantic Ocean (Atlantic Sea Nettle). Sea Nettles have a distinct fat arm (commonly mis-identified as a tentacle) dangling down in between a plethora of skinny tentacles that adorn the margin of their bell. I always try to find a balance between an inviting character and a realistic interpretation of the major identifying features of the animal. I really think I hit that mark with this jellyfish free crochet pattern. I hope you agree!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the 7-page PDF printable, ad-free pattern of Jag the Jellyfish on my Etsy shop here.

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Preview Image
This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my blog and small business which allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

General Notes:

This jellyfish free crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! The printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with LOTS of in-the-making photos for each step of the way as well.

Size & Gauge:

Size: Jag will end up being 21″ from top of head to tip of tentacle.

Gauge: 4”x4” of single crochet = 28 stitches x 30 rows. Ultimately with toys, gauge doesn’t matter. It won’t have to fit someone’s body or a specific space. My patterns will include the size of the finished toy based on the yarn and hook I use. But if you want it smaller or bigger, just use a bigger yarn and hook! Just remember, when crocheting toys, crochet tightly and choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn size recommends in order to avoid holes between each stitch where the stuffing will show through.

Top 10 under $10 Sustainable Yarns Image Stylecraft naturals Organic Cotton DK Yarn

Yarn & Stuffing:

Yarn: Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I use 100% organic cotton yarn because I make these toys for my kids and need them to be functional. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and relatively inflexible so the toys don’t stretch and sag – even after being thrown across the house, down the stairs and adventured through every part of the garden!

It’s very important for me to use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn so I feel good about the impact I’m making on the environment with my craft. This is why I choose organic cotton versus conventional cotton.

Stuffing: Stuff more than you think you should. Not enough for the stitches to stretch and show holes, but enough to make the toy stiff and able to withstand the rough trials of toy life. The filling will compress a bit over time. I encourage you to use an alternative to poly-fill (unless it’s recycled!). Try using leftover yarn scraps and snippets or old non-donate-able clothes and materials cut into strips.

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, sold, distributed or translated without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer. Thank you for your respectfulness!

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 6

Materials you will need:

Abbreviations used in the jellyfish free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
hk – hook
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
fsc – foundation single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
tc – treble crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times
[…] – number of stitches in row/round

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 4

The Pattern

Notes:

  • Jag is worked from the bell (head) down
  • The bell and the tentacles are all worked in one piece. The big center arm is worked separately and sewn on.
  • Round 12 & round 24 call for a “long single crochet”. Here are the “Long single crochet” instructions. You can also reference PHOTOS 02-05 (in the printable pattern): complete a single crochet, but rather than inserting your hook into the next st of the current row, you will insert your hook into the stitch a few rows immediately below the stitch and complete the single crochet over top the next one of the row (3 or 4 rows below as specified in the pattern below)

BELL:

Start with light blue yarn

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 11: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) x6 [66]

Switch to dark blue yarn

Rnd 12: (long sc in next st skipping 3 rows, sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) x6 [72]

Rnd 13: (sc in next 11 st, inc in next st) x6 [78]

Rnd 14: (sc in next 12 st, inc in next st) x6 [84]

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 2

Switch to yellow yarn

Rnd 15-16: sc in each st around [84]

Switch to light blue yarn

Rnd 17-23: sc in each st around.

Switch to yellow yarn

Rnd 24: (sc in next 5, long sc in next st skipping 4 rows) x14 [84]

Rnd 25: sc in each st around [84]

Rnd 26: (sc in next 12 st, dec in next st) x6 [78]

Rnd 27: (sc in next 11 st, dec in next st) x6 [72]

Rnd 28: FLO (sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, tc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st) x9 [72]

Switch to dark blue yarn (do not snip yellow – you will pick it up again in round 29)

Rnd 29: (sc in the next 7, sl st in the next st) x9 [72]

Invisible fasten and bring yarn to inside: Remove your hook from the loop and insert it back to front (inside to outside) through the next stitch, grap your loop and pull it to the inside. Snip the blue, and pull the yarn end through the loop and pull tightly to close. SEE “INVISIBLE FASTEN” (in the printable pattern)

Switch back to yellow: pick up yellow where you left off after round 28. For round 30, You’ll be working in the BACK LOOP ONLY of round 28 – the loop that you didn’t use when you were working in the FRONT LOOP ONLY during round 28.

Rnd 30: BLO of Rnd 28 (sc in the next 10, dec in the next st) x6 [66]

Insert safety eyes between rounds 25 & 26, spaced apart by 15 stitches. Embroider on 3 eyelashes for each eye branching out from the top corners of the eyes.

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 3

TENTACLES

Rnd 31: (sc in the next st, ch 100, sl st in each back bump down the chain back to the head, sc in the next 4 st, ch 100, sl st in each back bump down the chain back to the head, sc in the next 4 st, dec in the next st) x6 [60]

Switch to light blue yarn

Rnd 32: (sc in next 8 st, dec in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 33: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 34: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 35: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 36: (sc in next 4 st, dec in next st) x6 [30]

Start to stuff head

Rnd 37: (sc in next 3 st, dec in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 38: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x6 [18]

Finish stuffing head

Rnd 39: (sc in next st, dec in next st) x6 [12]

Rnd 40:(sc in the next st, dec in the next st) x6 [6]

Snip, leaving a tail. Using a tapestry needle and the yarn tail, weave the yarn through the front loop of each of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tightly to close.

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 5

CENTER ARM:

Begin with light blue yarn

Row 1: FDC 75, ch 1, turn [75]

Row 2: 3 sc in the next 30 st, 3 hdc in the next 25 st, 3 dc in the next 20 st, ch 1, turn [225]

Row 3: 3 dc in the next 50 st, 3 hdc in the next 35 st, 2 sc in the next 140 (rest of row), ch 1, turn [535]

Switch to dark blue yarn

Row 4 (contrast border): sc in the next 100 st, switch to light blue yarn, 2 hdc in the next 40, 2 dc in the next 395 (to end of row), ch 1, turn [970]

Switch back to dark blue yarn

Row 5: sc in each st until you meet back up with the row of dark blue you made in Row 4

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Just one more step and you’ll have completed this jellyfish free crochet pattern!

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 1

ATTACH THE ARM:

Using a tapestry needle and a length of light blue yarn, sew the arm onto the center of the underside of the bell of the jellyfish. You’ll want to weave the yarn in and out several times in order to secure part of the arm to the underside of the jellyfish. The arm is heavy and if you don’t secure it well, it will dangle precariously.

You’ll use a short section of the fattest part of the arm and sew it up under the jellyfish. Pull the yarn to the inside.

You did it! Stop and admire your skilllz!

I would love to see your completed jellyfish. Please post pictures on instagram and tag me @offthebeatenhook. Cheers!

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Resource Library Graphic

Did you love this jellyfish free crochet pattern? Want more free amigurumi crochet patterns? Check these out!

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern

The thing that makes me the most jealous about Narwhals is they get to eat fresh halibut, cod, and shrimp every day. In fact that’s probably the ONLY thing that makes me jealous of Narwhals. Living most of my life under a thick sheet of ice just doesn’t sound pleasant. Nonetheless, the unicorns of the sea are beautiful and intriguing. And I hope I do them justice with my Filip the Narwhal free crochet pattern.

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the printable, ad-free pattern of Filip the Narwhal on my Etsy shop here.

Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Preview Image
This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my blog and small business which allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

General Notes:

This narwhal free crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! The printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with LOTS of in-the-making photos for each step of the way as well.

Size & Gauge:

Size: Filip will end up being 20″ from tail to tusk & 4.5″ wide.

Gauge: 4”x4” of single crochet = 28 stitches x 30 rows. Ultimately with toys, gauge doesn’t matter. It won’t have to fit someone’s body or a specific space. My patterns will include the size of the finished toy based on the yarn and hook I use. But if you want it smaller or bigger, just use a bigger yarn and hook! Just remember, when crocheting toys, crochet tightly and choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn size recommends in order to avoid holes between each stitch where the stuffing will show through.

Yarn & Stuffing:

Yarn: Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I use 100% organic cotton yarn because I make these toys for my kids and need them to be functional. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and relatively inflexible so the toys don’t stretch and sag – even after being thrown across the house, down the stairs and adventured through every part of the garden!

It’s very important for me to use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn so I feel good about the impact I’m making on the environment with my craft. This is why I choose organic cotton versus conventional cotton.

Stuffing: Stuff more than you think you should. Not enough for the stitches to stretch and show holes, but enough to make the toy stiff and able to withstand the rough trials of toy life. The filling will compress a bit over time. I encourage you to use an alternative to poly-fill (unless it’s recycled!). Try using leftover yarn scraps and snippets or old non-donate-able clothes and materials cut into strips.

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, sold, distributed or translated without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer. Thank you for your respectfulness!

Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin

Materials you will need:

Abbreviations used in the narwhal free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
sc – single crochet
dec – decrease
inc – increase
[…] – number of stitches in row
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image Birdseye Completed

The Pattern

Notes:

  • the head and body are crocheted in continuous rounds – do not join
  • the head and body use the denim colored yarn

Head & Body:

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6] When you pull to close the magic circle, first insert your dowel through the circle. You don’t want to pull it all the way tight to close or the dowel will be impossible to insert later.

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 8-17: sc in each st around [42]

Rnd 18: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 19: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 20-21: sc in each st around [54]

Rnd 22: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 23-24: sc in each st around [60]

Rnd 25: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) x6 [66]

Insert safety eyes between rounds 15 & 16, spaced over the top of the head by 39 st (bottom of head will have 27 st in between eyes)

Rnd 26-45: sc in each st around [66] START TO STUFF

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image rounds

Rnd 46: (sc in next 9 st, dec in next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 47-51: sc in each st around [60]

Rnd 52: (sc in next 8 st, dec in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 53-57: sc in each st around [54]

Rnd 58: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 59-61: sc in each st around [48]

Rnd 62: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 63-65: sc in each st around [42]

Rnd 66: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 67-69: sc in each st around [36] STUFF

Rnd 70: (sc in next 4 st, dec in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 71-73: sc in each st around [30]

Rnd 74: (sc in next 3 st, dec in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 75-76: sc in each st around [24]

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image continuous rounds

Rnd 77: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 78-79: sc in each st around [18]

Rnd 80: (sc in next st, dec in next st) x6 [12]

Rnd 81: sc in each st around [12] STUFF

Rnd 82: dec in each st around [6]

Fins – make 2

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-5: sc in each st around [12]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x3 [9]

Rnd 7-9: sc in each st around [9]

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image fins

Tail – make 2

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: sc in each st around [6]

Rnd 3: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 5: sc in each st around [18]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 7-10: sc in each st around [24]

Rnd 11: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 12-14: sc in each st around [18]

Rnd 15: (sc in next st, dec in next st) x6 [12]

Rnd 16: sc in each st around [12]

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image tail

Tusk

Rnd 1: st 4 in a magic circle [4]

Rnd 2: sc in each st around [4]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x2 [6]

Rnd 4: sc in each st around [6]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x2 [8]

Rnd 6-11: sc in each st around [8]

Rnd 12: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x2 [10]

Rnd 13-42*: sc in each st around [10]

*The tusk will be approximately 7″ long if you’d rather just flow with it for a while and measure, versus counting rows. Alternatively if you want to count stitches, you’ll make 300 stitches between rounds 13-42. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

You’re done with all the components of Filip the Narwhal free crochet pattern. Now all you have to do is put it all together.

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image tusk

Assembly:

Assemble the narwhal:

  • Sew the tail pieces to the sides of the body over rounds 78-82, using the eyes as a centering point.
  • Sew the fins to the sides of the body over rounds 29-32, spaced across the tummy by 20 stitches.
  • Cut your dowel to the length of the narwhal body (approx. 12″)
Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image tusk and dowel
  • Slide the tusk over one end of the dowel (I didn’t have to stuff my tusk because the dowel was the same width as the tusk. But, if your dowel is skinnier than the tusk, you may want to consider adding some stuffing)
  • Push the other side of the dowel into the center of the nose on the body until the end of the tusk meets up with the nose. You’ll have to wiggle and push and work your way through the magic circle in the nose and through the dense stuffing.
  • Use a tapestry needing and the yarn tail of the tusk to sew the tusk to the body over round 2, threading the needle through the inside loop of a stitch on the tusk and one loop of a stitch on round 2. Repeat all the way around with each of the 12 stitches. Pull the yarn tail back and forth under the tusk a couple times to secure the yarn and snip.
Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image Tusk Sewn on

Admire your crochet skills. You did it! I’d love to see your finished narwhal free crochet pattern results! Please tag me on instagram @offthebeatenhook with pictures!

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Resource Library Graphic

Want more free amigurumi crochet patterns? Check these out!

Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern

When my family and I were enjoying our 5-week stay in Costa Rica, we rented an open-air house for two weeks in Puerto Viejo on the Caribbean. Among other critters of the jungle, the raccoons would pay us a visit every night. Usually, my husband and I were still up playing cards and we would see their cute little heads peeking in under the thatch of the roof checking to see if we were still around. Often we would wake up in the middle of the night to their nocturnal shenanigans and would be welcomed in the morning by some sort of raccoon wreckage in the kitchen. They’re cute, but dang, they’re clever. In fact, did you know that raccoons are ranked just beneath humans and monkeys for their IQ? Well, I hope I do them justice with Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern!

The markings on his face took a while to get just right (or at least what looks right to me) but in the end it was worth it.

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the printable, ad-free pattern of Esteban the Raccoon with lots of in-the-making photos and added tips in my Etsy shop here.

Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern Image 2

This crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart in the Resource Library here. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before beginning so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for helping you along the way and making this an enjoyable, successful project.

Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin

Yarn & Tools Needed:

  • Stylecraft Naturals Organic Cotton: 100% Organic Cotton | DK/Light Worsted
    • Colors & Numbers of Balls:
      • DOVE GRAY – x1
      • IRON BLACK – x1 (you’ll use less than a full ball)
      • GYPSUM WHITE – x1 (you’ll use less than 1/4 ball)
      • POPPY RED – x1 (you’ll use less than 1/4 ball)
      • DEEP SEA BLUE – x1 (barely any for the border of the vest) or leftover scraps from something else
  • Crochet Hook Size: 3.00 mm
  • Safety eyes: 8 mm
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Stuffing
  • Stitch Markers
  • Scissors
  • Optional: tiny buttons for vest

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
hk – hook
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
[…] – number of stitches in row/round
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

Size & Gauge:

I am a firm believer that gauge doesn’t matter with toys. Call me naive or whatever you want, but I’ll take it to the bank! People crochet toys in all different yarn weights and hook sizes. Use yarn and colors that make you happy! This is why we crochet! I don’t want you to stress about gauge. If you use the yarn and hook I recommend, Esteban will end up being about 10″ tall.

The Pattern:

Notes:

  • Esteban and his body parts are crocheted in continuous rounds. Do not slip stitch and chain one to join rounds – just keep on going!
  • The snout and ears require color changing. Remember to properly change your colors by introducing the new color during the final loop of the previous color
  • Color abbreviations: w=white, b=black, g=gray and will be indicated in each row after the method is explained. For example, Rnd 4 involves increasing in each st around: w4, b2, w3 means: inc in white 4 times, increase in black 2 times, increase in white 3 times.

Snout:

Begin with black yarn

Rnd 1: st 9 into a magic circle [9]

Rnd 2-3: sc in each st around [9]

Introduce white in rnd 4

Rnd 4: inc in each st around: w4, b2, w3 [18]

Rnd 5: sc in each stitch around: w8, b4, w6 [18]

Rnd 6: w(sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x2, b sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, w sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st [22]

Rnd 7: sc in each st around: w10, b5, w7 [22]

Rnd 8: w (sc in next 4, inc in next st), switch to black in the final st of the previous increase, b sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st [26]

Rnd 9: sc in each st around: w12, b6, w8 [26]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail of white and black for sewing on. Stuff.

Ears – make 2:

Begin with white yarn

Rnd 1: sc 6 into a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: sc in each st around [6]

Rnd 3: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Switch to gray yarn

Rnd 5-10: sc in each st around [18]

Flatten ears and visualize embroidery. Embroider black inner ears on one side of the flattened ear (not through both layers) by taking a long strand of black yarn and doubling it up through a tapestry needle. Pass the tapestry needle several times horizontally back and forth under/over one side of the ear. Tie off the end inside the ear. Flatten ears.

Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern Image 4

Head:

Notes:

  • Color changing: rounds 14-23 involve color changing 2-4 times in one round. Remember to introduce your new color during the final loop of the previous color
  • Color abbreviations are: b=black, w=white
  • Color changing for rounds 14-17 do not involve decreasing or increasing – only sc around the entire round:The pattern will indicate the color followed by the number of sc stitches to be made with that color. For example (Rnd 17): w22, b27, w22 means sc 22 white, sc 27 black, sc 22 white
    • The pattern will indicate the color followed by the number of sc stitches to be made with that color. For example (Rnd 17): w22, b27, w22 means sc 22 white, sc 27 black, sc 22 white
    • Color changing for rounds 18-23 involve decreasing, but you’ll never have to decrease DURING a color change (whew!)
    • For rounds 18-23, the method for the entire row is provided and immediately beneath that, I’ve detailed out exactly which color and stitches to perform as you go around.

Begin with gray yarn

Rnd 1: st 6 into a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 11: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) x6 [66]

Rnd 12: (sc in next 10 st, inc in next st) x6 [72]

Switch to white yarn

Rnd 13: sc in each st around [72]

Rnd 14: sc in each st around with color changes: w28, b5, w5, b5, w28 [72]

Rnd 15: sc in each st around with color changes: w25, b8, w5, b8, w25 [72]

Rnd 16: sc in each st around with color changes: w22, b27, w22 [72]

Rnd 17: sc in each st around with color changes: w19, b33, w19 [72]

Rnd 18: (sc in next 10 st, dec in next st) x6 with color changes:

w15 as follows: sc 10, dec, sc 4,

b36 as follows: sc 6, dec, (sc 10, dec) x2, sc 7,

w15 as follows: sc 3, dec, sc 10, dec [66]

Rnd 19: (sc in next 9 st, dec in next st) x6 with color changes:

w14 as follows: sc 9, dec, sc 4,

b33 as follows: sc 5, dec, (sc 9, dec) x2, sc 7

w13 as follows: sc 2, dec, sc 9, dec [60]

Rnd 20: (sc in next 8 st, dec in next st) x6 with color changes:

w16 as follows: sc 8, dec, sc 7,

b26 as follows: sc 1, dec, (sc 8, dec) x2, sc 6

w12 as follows: sc 2, dec, sc 8, dec, [54]

Rnd 21: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6

w16 as follows: (sc 7, dec) x2

b16 as follows: (sc 7, dec) x2

w16 as follows: (sc 7, dec) x2 [48]

Rnd 22: sc in each st around with color changes: w19, b10, w19 [48]

Rnd 23: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6

w21 as follows: (sc 6, dec) x3

b2 as follows: sc 2

w19 as follows: sc 4, dec, (sc 6, dec) x2 [42]

Switch to white only

Rnd 24: sc in each st around [42]

Rnd 25: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) x6 [36]

Switch to gray

Rnd 26-27: sc in each st around [36]

Place a stitch marker and set your hook aside. Do not fasten off as you will pick up the round again and continue on with the body after you assemble the face/head pieces.

ASSEMBLY OF FACE/HEAD:

  • Sew on the snout over rounds 16-26, keeping it nice and round. Pass the needle from the inside of the head to the outside, picking up both loops of the stitch you are sewing on. Stuff the snout firmly before making your final several stitches
  • Sew on the ears centered on top of head, over rounds 4-11
  • Insert safety eyes between rounds 18 and 19, to the left and right of snout, leaving 2-3 stitches between the snout and the eyes
  • Stuff head and take a look at how adorable he is! Esteban the Raccoon free crochet pattern is starting to come to life!
Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern Image 5

Body & Legs

Pick up where you left off after the head…

Rnd 28: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 29: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 30: sc in each st around [48]

Rnd 31: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 32: sc in each st around [54]

Rnd 33: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 34-35: sc in each st around [60]

Rnd 36: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) x6 [66]

Rnd 37-38: sc in each st around [66]

Rnd 39: (sc in next 10 st, inc in next st) x6 [72]

Rnd 40-45: sc in each st around [72]

Rnd 46: (sc in next 10 st, dec in next st) x6 [66]

Rnd 47: sc in each st around [66]

Rnd 48: (sc in next 9 st, dec in next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 49: sc in each st around[60]

Rnd 50: (sc in next 8 st, dec in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 51: sc in each st around [54]

Rnd 52: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 53: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 54-56: sc in each st around [42]

Begin stuffing body

LEGS:

Divide work for the legs. There will be 15 st for each of the legs and 12 st for the gap in between the legs (6 from the front and 6 from the back). Using stitch markers, work out the division per the above number of stitches, making sure the legs are centered on the body in relation to the head

Start with the left leg:

If needed, add or remove a few stitches to get to the point of the back of the left leg. Join the back to the front making a sc.

Rnd 57-63: sc in each st around [15]

Switch to white

Rnd 64-65: sc in each st around [15]

Switch to black

Rnd 66-67: sc in each st around [15]

Rnd 68: (sc in next 3 st, dec in next st) x3 [12]

Stuff leg

Rnd 69: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x3 [8]

Rnd 70: (sc in next st, dec in next st) x3 [5]

Cut yarn leaving a tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn through the front loop only of the remaining 5 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring the yarn to the inside and snip off.

Just a quick note at this point…

If you’re struggling, I do provide LOTS (over 20) of photos in the written pattern that give you close-ups of many of the steps including color changing, sewing-on and dividing stitches for the legs. If you need some help, you can find the pattern here.

Legs continued…

Right leg:

Leaving a long starting tail (to sew the gap closed later), rejoin gray yarn on the back side on the 7th unworked stitch (leaving the first 6 for the gap between the legs).

Rnd 57: sc in the next 15 st, join the back to the front (where you just rejoined the gray yarn), making a sc [15]

Rnd 58-70: repeat pattern as with the first leg

Finish stuffing body through the gap between the legs. Using the long starting tail from the right leg, sew closed the gap between the legs.

Arms – make 2:

Begin with black yarn

Rnd 1: st 6 into a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-4: sc in each st around [12]

Switch to white yarn

Rnd 5-6: sc in each st around [12]

Switch to gray yarn

Rnd 7-16: sc in each st around [12]

Stuff arm. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Close the openings of the arms. Sew on arms, 3 rnds below the neck on either side of the body.

Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern Image 3

Tail:

Begin with black yarn

Rnd 1: st 6 into a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 5-7: sc in each st around [24]

Switch to gray yarn

Rnd 8-11: sc in each st around [24]

Switch to black yarn

Rnd 12-15: sc in each st around [24]

Rnd 16-31: repeat rnds 8-15 (creating 4 more alternating stripes) [24]

Switch to gray yarn

Rnd 32: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) [18]

Rnd 33-34: sc in each st around [18]

Stuff tail. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew on tail on the back of Esteban over rounds 45-51.

Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern Image 8

Vest:

The vest is worked in turning rows. Chain 1 and turn at the end of each row.

Begin by making a chain of 51

Row 1: hdc in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each ch thereafter [50]

Row 2-6: hdc in each st across [50]

Row 7: dec in next st, hdc in next 6 st, (dec in next st, hdc in next 6 st) x5, dec in last st [43]

Row 4: dec in next st, hdc in next 4 st, (dec in next st, hdc in next 5 st) x5, dec in last st [36]

Row 5: dec in next st, hdc in next 4, ch 6, sk 6, hdc in next 12, ch 6, sk 6, hdc in next 4, dec in last [34]

Row 6: dec in next st, hdc in next 30 st, dec in last st [32]

Weave in red ends. Using blue yarn, rejoin at the first corner and single crochet a border all the way around. Sl st to first st and fasten off. Weave in ends.

Sew on optional buttons. Put the vest on Esteban – you’ve brought him to life!

I hope you’ve enjoyed making this raccoon free crochet pattern as much as I did! If you want to be the first to know about new free patterns, tutorials and resources, you can join the Off the Beaten Hook community by entering your name and email below!

Esteban Raccoon Crochet Pattern Resource Library Graphic

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Want more free crochet patterns? Check these out!

Napali the Sea Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

Napali the Sea Turtle Free Crochet Pattern

I think this little fella hits the perfect balance between adorable but realistic. Napali the Sea Turtle Free Crochet Pattern inspiration came from the beautiful coastal waters of Kauai, Hawaii. Named after the epic Napali coast and inspired by the incredible creatures of these waters, Napali the Sea Turtle will capture your heart as you bring him to life through the art of crochet.

I have a pretty robust bucket list. Not only robust in the way of the things I want to experience in this lifetime, but robust in the way that it is a legitimate scrapbook that keeps track of photos and stories around when and how I accomplish the things on said bucket list.

Yes, it’s that serious.

Experiencing adventure and experiencing the cultures of the world brings me life and brings me joy. My mind is just BLOWN by the colors, smells, sounds, tastes, sights and feels of LIFE around this globe. As such, the memory of the first time I swam with the turtles of the Hawaiian coast (which was in 2016) is burned in my brain as one of the most peaceful and special memories I have. And now, having swam with the turtles of the Kauai-an coast, I’ve been inspired to crochet a toy that will represent a piece of this island paradise. He is named after a hike that my husband and I have been dreaming of doing for many many years – the Napali Coast. We were finally able to experience the magic of this experience this month.

So enough of the sentimental and on to the pattern!

This Sea Turtle Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern version is supported by ads on my blog. If you’d like, you can find the full, ad-free pattern of Napali the Sea Turtle Crochet Pattern on my Etsy shop here!

Napali the Seat Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Image 6

Napali’s ad-free pattern is a beautiful 8-page PDF document with detailed instructions and accompanied by LOTS of clear pictures and diagrams to help you along the way. Find the Napali the Sea Turtle Amigurumi Crochet Pattern here!

Napali Sea Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin

Materials you will need:


– DK/light worsted weight yarn / 100% cotton
Rowan Handknit Cotton DK in GOOSEBERRY – 1 and
1/4 balls
Rowan Summerlite Cotton DK in PICKLES – 1/4 ball
3.00 mm crochet hook
– Stuffing
– 8 mm safety eyes
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Stitch markers

Abbreviations used on the pattern:


ch (chain)
st (stitch)
sc (single crochet)
hdc (half double crochet)
dc (double crochet)
tc (treble cro het)
inc (increase: 2 single crochets in one stitch)
dec (decrease: 2 stitches together)
sl st (slip stitch)
(…)x (repeat instructions indicated number of times)
[…] total number of stitches in round

The Pattern

Shell:

The shell is created by making 7 hexagons in continuous rounds and then crocheting them together. The hexagons will use both colors.

HEXAGONS – make 7

Start in color Gooseberry

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in the next st, inc in the next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Switch to color Pickles

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, 3 sc in the next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 6: sl st in each st around [36]

Fasten off.

JOINING HEXAGONS:

Join hexagons together as shown in. Sew the hexagons together through the back loop only of round 5. Slip stitch will show both loops around the top of the hexagons, but the back loop of round 5 will be available to join together on the back of the hexagons. Next, crochet the border around the hexagons: Rejoin yarn at one of the tips of a hexagon (the middle of the 3 stitch clump) and continue joining around as follows:

Rnd 1: (sc in the next 6 st, hdc in the next 2 st, dc in the next 2 st, tc in the next 4 st, dc in the next 2 st, hdc in the next 2 st) x6 [108]

Rnd 2: sc in each st around [108]

Sl st to next st. Fasten off.

Napali the Seat Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Image 4

Tummy

The tummy is crocheted in continuous rounds using

the color Gooseberry. You do not have to join at

the end of each round. Just keep on goin’!

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in the next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in the next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in the next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in the next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in the next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in the next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in the next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 11: (sc in next 9 st, inc in the next st) x6 [66]

Rnd 12: (sc in next 10 st, inc in the next st) x6 [72]

Rnd 13: (sc in next 11 st, inc in the next st) x6 [78]

Rnd 14: (sc in next 12 st, inc in the next st) x6 [84]

Rnd 15: (sc in next 13 st, inc in the next st) x6 [90]

Rnd 16: (sc in next 14 st, inc in the next st) x6 [96]

Rnd 17: (sc in next 15 st, inc in the next st) x6 [102]

Rnd 18: (sc in next 16 st, inc in the next st) x6 [108]

Sl st to next st. Fasten off.

Napali the Seat Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Image 2

The head is crocheted by making a square for the face, and then crocheting in continuous rounds around the outside of the square and continuing on for the remainder of the head and neck.

Start by chaining 5

Row 1: sc in the 2nd back bump from the chain, and the next 3 st [4]

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across [4]

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in next 3 st, inc in last st. Continue on to the next (2nd) side: sc in next 2 st, inc in last st. Continue on to the next (3rd) side: sc in next 3 st, inc in last st. Continue on to the last (4th) side: sc in next 2 st, inc in last st [18]

Rnd 4-11: sc in each st around [18]

Insert safety eyes between rows 5 and 6, with 6 or 7 stitches spaced over the top of the head. Using a length of yarn and a tapestry needle, embroider the eyelids by inserting the needle from the inside to the outside at the top, back corner of the safety eye and inserting it back in on the opposite corner, back out from the top where you first started, and back in at the bottom. Repeat immediately on the other eye with the same thread. Refer to PHOTO 05 for a close illustration of the eye and embroidered eyelid. Stuff head.

Rnd 12: (sc in next 4 st, dec in the next st) x3 [15]

Rnd 13: (sc in next 3 st, dec in the next st) x3 [12]

Rnd 14-17: sc in each st around [12]

Sl st to fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Napali the Seat Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Image 5

Front Flippers – make 2

Rnd 1: sc 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: sc in each st around [6]

Rnd 3: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x2 [8]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x2 [10]

Rnd 5: inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, inc in next st [12]

Rnd 6: inc in next st, sc in next 10 st, inc in next st [14]

Rnd 7: inc in next st, sc in next 12 st, inc in next st [16]

Rnd 8: sc in each st around [16]

Rnd 9: inc in next st, sc in next 14 st, inc in next st [18]

Rnd 10: sc in each st around [18]

Rnd 11: inc in next st, sc in next 7 st, dec in next st, sc in next 7 st, inc in next st [19]

Rnd 12: sc in each st around [19]

Rnd 13: inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, dec in next st, sc in next 7 st, inc in next st [20]

Rnd 14: sc in each st around [20]

Rnd 15-21: inc in next st, sc in next 7 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 7 st, inc in next st [20]

Rnd 22: sc in next 8 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 8 st [18]

Rnd 23: sc in next 7 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 7 st [16]

Rnd 24: sc in next 6 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 6 st [14]

Sl st to next st. Fasten off.

Napali Sea Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Image 3

Back Flippers – make 2

Rnd 1: sc 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-4: sc in each st around [12]

Rnd 5: (make 3 sc in next st) x3, sc in next 2 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 2 st [16]

Rnd 6-8: sc in each st around [16]

Rnd 9: sc in next 5 st, (make 3 sc in next st) x3, sc in next 4 st, dec in next 2 st [20]

Rnd 10-14: sc in each st around [20]

Rnd 15: dec in next st, sc in next 6 st, dec in next st, sc in next 8 st, dec in next st [17]

Rnd 16: sc in next 7 st, dec in next st, sc in next 6 st, dec in next st [15]

Rnd 17: sc in next 6 st, dec in next st, sc in next 5 st, dec in next st [13]

Rnd 18: sc in each st around [13]

Sl st to next st. Fasten off.

Napali Sea Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Image 2

Tail

Rnd 1: sc 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: sc in each st around [6]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x3 [9]

Rnd 4: sc in each st around [9]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x3 [12]

Rnd 6: sc in each st around [12]

Rnd 7: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x3 [15]

Rnd 8: sc in each st around [15]

Sl st to next st. Fasten off.

Assembly

It’s time to put together Napali the Sea Turtle Free Crochet Pattern! Begin with the head and sew shell to top side of head along 6 stitches of head opening and continue with the tummy-piece underneath. Continue down one side, sewing the shell and tummy together – picking up one loop from the shell and two loops from the tummy as pictured in. This will allow for a nice, clean border around the turtle, without having the sewn stitches showing. Sew in first flipper lined approximately up with the outer flat side of one of the outer hexagon. Continue down to the back flipper and sew it in approximately along where you made the 4 treble crochet stitches around the outside of the shell. Stop here and do not sew in tail yet.

Start again with the other side of the head and repeat in the same manner down the other side of the turtle. You can stuff a bit before you make it to the back flipper. Then, after sewing in the second back flipper be sure to stuff to your liking before you sew in the tail. I stuffed very lightly so as to keep the turtle pretty flat.

Finally, sew in the tail and you’re done!

I hope you had fun making Napali the Sea Turtle Free Crochet Pattern! If you’d like to purchase the ad-free, full 8-page printable PDF of Napali the Sea Turtle, you can do so from my Etsy shop here!

Napali the Seat Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Image 1

Love crochet amigurumi? I have more animal and free food toy patterns! Here’s a couple you might be interested in:

Seahorse Featured Image

Yoyo the Seahorse Free Crochet Pattern

I am super fascinated by seahorses. They are these tiny, mysterious, often overlooked sea creatures that are actually quite extraordinary. I mean, I can brag all day about how incredible of a father my husband is, but even he cannot have babies. Male seahorses have babies! I mean, come on! So let’s give a shout out to the incredible seahorse with this Yoyo the Seahorse Free Crochet Pattern! It is simple and adorable.

My son Benjamin affectionately name this cutie Yoyo after her curly tail. I love the vibrant colors, but there are SO many different color combinations you could choose. Completed with DK weight cotton yarn and a size 3.00mm crochet hook, she measures about 14″ tall.

You can find the full, ad-free pattern with lots of helpful pictures on my Etsy shop here!

Seahorse Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern Photo 4

Yoyo’s ad-free pattern is a beautiful 8-page PDF document with detailed instructions and accompanied by LOTS of clear pictures to help you along the way. Find the Yoyo the Seahorse Amigurumi Crochet Pattern here!

Seahorse Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern Photo 3

Materials you will need:


– DK/light worsted weight yarn / 100% cotton
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK – PEACH ORANGE – 1 ball
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK – MARINE BLUE – 1/4 ball
3.00 mm crochet hook
– Stuffing
– 10 mm safety eyes
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Stitch markers

Abbreviations used on the pattern:


ch (chain)
st (stitch)
sc (single crochet)
BLO (back loop only)
hdc (half double crochet)
fsc (chainless foundation single crochet)
inc (increase: 2 single crochets in one stitch)
dec (decrease: 2 stitches together)
sl st (slip stitch)
picot (picot stitch)
(…)x (repeat instructions indicated number of times)
[…] total number of stitches in round

The Pattern

Head, body & tail:

The head, body, and tail will be worked in a continuous round using the peach yarn.

Rnd 1: st 8 in a magic circle [8]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [16]

Rnd 3: BLO sc in each st around [16]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x4 [12]

Rnd 5: sc in next 2 st, dec in next 4 st, sc in next 2 st [8]

Stuff the nose.

Rnd 6-9: sc in each st around [8]

Rnd 10: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x4 [12]

Rnd 11: sc in next 6 st, inc in next 4 st, sc in next 2 st [16]

Rnd 12-13: sc in each st around [16]

Rnd 14: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x4 [20]

Rnd 15-16: sc in each st around [20]

Rnd 17: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) x4 [24]

Rnd 18-19: sc in each st around [24]

Rnd 20: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x4 [28]

Rnd 21-22: sc in each st around [28]

Rnd 23: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x4 [32]

Rnd 24-25: sc in each st around [32]

Rnd 26: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x4 [36]

Rnd 27-28: sc in each st around [36]

Rnd 29: sc in next 2, sl st in next 6, sc in next 8, hdc in next 14, sc in next 6 [36]

Rnd 30: sc in next st, sl st in next 8, sc in next 7, hdc in next 14, sc in next 6 [36]

Insert the eyes between rounds 22-23, spaced 15 stitches in between. Stuff.

Rnd 31: sl st in next 10, sc in next 6, hdc in next 14, sc in next 5, sl st in next st [36]

Rnd 32: sl st in next 11, sc in next 6, hdc in next 14, sc in next 5 [36]

Rnd 33-34: sc in next st, sl st in next 11, sc in next 5, hdc in next 14, sc in next 5 [36]

Rnd 35: sc in next st, sl st in next 11, sc in next 6, hdc in next 12, sc in next 6 [36]

Rnd 36-37: sl st in next 14, sc in next 6, hdc in next 12, sc in next 4 [36]

Rnd 38-40: sc in next 3, sl st in next 14, sc in next 5, hdc in next 12, sc in next 2 [36]

Rnd 41: sc in next 3, sl st in next 14, sc in next 5, hdc in next 12, dec in next st [35]

Rnd 42: sc in next 3, sl st in next 14, sc in next 3, dec in next st, hdc in next 12, sc in next 2 [34]

Rnd 43: dec in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next 14, sc in next st, dec in next st, sc in next 12, ch 1, turn, skip next st, sc in next 12, ch 1, turn, skip next st, sc in next 12 st

Seahorse Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern Photo 11

Rnd 44: sc in next 3, sl st in next 13, sc in next 15 [31]

Rnd 45: sc in each st around [31]

Rnd 46: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x4, sc in next 15 st [35]

Rnd 47: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) x4, sc in next 15 st [39]

Rnd 48: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x4, sc in next 15 st [43]

Rnd 49: sc in each st around [43]

Rnd 50: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x4, sc in next 6 st, (dec in next st, sc in next 2 st) x2 [45]

Rnd 51: sc in each st around [45]

Rnd 52: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x4, sc in next 6 st, dec in next st, sc in next 3 st, dec in next st [47]

Rnd 53: sc in each st around [47]

Rnd 54: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) x4, sc in next 6 st, dec in next st, sc in next 3 st [50]

Rnd 55: dec in next st, sc in next 48 [49]

Rnd 56: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) x4, sc in next 4 st, dec in next st, sc in next 3 st [52]

Rnd 57: dec in next st, sc in next 50 st [51]

Rnd 58: (sc in next 10 st, inc in next st) x4, sc in next 2 st, dec in next st, sc in next 3 st [54]

Rnd 59: dec in next st, sc in next 52 st [53]

Rnd 60: (sc in next 11 st, inc in next st) x4, dec in next st, sc in next 3 st [56]

Rnd 61: dec in next st, sc in next 54 st [55]

Rnd 62-67: sc in each st around [55]

At this point, with a strand of yarn and a tapestry needle, I took a few stitches up and down through the next to help it curve more dramatically and fastened it off on the inside. Also, at this point, make sure your starting point for each row is centered on the back of the neck. If it’s not centered, give or take a few single crochets at this point to do so.

Seahorse Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern Photo 12

Rnd 68: sc in next 2, (sc in next 11, dec in next st) x3, sc in next 14 [52]

Rnd 69: sc in next 3, (sc in next 10, dec in next st) x3, sc in next 13 [49]

Rnd 70: sc in next 4, (sc in next 9, dec in next st) x3, sc in next 12 [46]

Rnd 71: sc in next 4, (sc in next 8, dec in next st) x3, sc in next 12 [43]

Rnd 72: sc in next 5, (sc in next 7, dec in next st) x3, sc in next 11 [40]

Rnd 73: sc in next 5, (sc in next 6, dec in next st) x3, sc in next 11 [37]

Rnd 74: sc in next 5, (sc in next 5, dec in next st) x3, sc in next 11 [34]

Rnd 75: sc in next 6, (sc in next 4, dec in next st) x3, sc in next 10 [31]

Rnd 76: sc in next 6, (sc in next 3, dec in next st) x3, sc in next 10 [28]

Rnd 77: sc in next 7, (sc in next 2, dec in next st) x3, sc in next 9 [25]

Rnd 78: sc in next 7, (sc in next st, dec in next st) x3, sc in next 9 [22]

Stuff.

Rnd 79-81: sc in each st around [22]

Rnd 82: sc in next 10 st, dec in next st, sc in next 10 st [21]

Rnd 83: sc in each st around [21]

Rnd 84: sc in next 10 st, dec in next st, sc in next 9 st [20]

Rnd 85: sc in each st around [20]

Rnd 86: sc in next 9 st, dec in next st, sc in next 9 st [19]

Rnd 87: sc in each st around [19]

Rnd 88: sc in next 9 st, dec in next st, sc in next 8 st [18]

Rnd 89: sc in each st around [18]

Rnd 90: sc in next 8 st, dec in next st, sc in next 8 st [17]

Rnd 91: sc in each st around [17]

Rnd 92: sc in next 8 st, dec in next st, sc in next 7 st [16]

Rnd 93: sc in each st around [16]

Rnd 94: sc in next 7 st, dec in next st, sc in next 7 st [15]

Rnd 95: sc in each st around [15]

Rnd 96: sc in next 7 st, dec in next st, sc in next 6 st [14]

Rnd 97: sc in each st around [14]

Rnd 98: sc in next 6 st, dec in next st, sc in next 6 st [13]

Rnd 99: sc in each st around [13]

Rnd 100: sc in next 6 st, dec in next st, sc in next 5 st [12]

Rnd 101: sc in each st around [12]

Rnd 102: sc in next 5 st, dec in next st, sc in next 5 st [11]

Rnd 103: sc in each st around [11]

Rnd 104: sc in next 5 st, dec in next st, sc in next 4 st [10]

Rnd 105-124: sc in each st around [10] Stuff every few rounds.

If you’re having any trouble with your Seahorse Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me as well! She should be coming together quite nicely at this point!

Seahorse Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern Photo 13

Rnd 125: sc in next 4 st, dec in next st, sc in next 4 st [9]

Rnd 126-130: sc in each st around [9]

Rnd 131: sc in next 4 st, dec in next st, sc in next 3 st [8]

Rnd 132-136: sc in each st around [8]

Rnd 137: sc in next 4 st, dec in next st, sc in next 3 st [7]

Rnd 138-142: sc in each st around [7]

Rnd 143: sc in next 3 st, dec in next st, sc in next 2 st [6]

Sl st to fasten off. Cut yarn leaving a 2 foot (24″) tail which will be used for curving the tail. Weave through front loop of remaining 6 stitches and pull tightly to close.

Now, let’s curl the tail on your Seahorse Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern: using a tapestry needle and the long yarn tail, weave the yarn behind/under the post stitches up the center front of the tail, weaving your needle behind each of the posts in each row – ending back at about row 107 (36 rows from the tip of the tail) Pull on the yarn tail and watch the tail curve up!

Now, take the needle and push it through the thickness of the tail from inside to outside and back in a couple times to secure the curl. Take a couple stitches on the inside of the curl to secure the end and pull the yarn to the center and cut.

Seahorse Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern Photo 14

The fin

TIP – Picot stitch instructions: chain 3, insert hook into back bump of 3rd chain from the hook, yarn over, pull through and slip stitch through the loop on the hook.

Row 1: fsc 108, ch 1, turn

Row 2: (picot in next st, sc in next 3 st) x15, sc in next 10 st, ch 2, turn

Row 3: inc in next st, dc in next 8 st, 2 dc in next st, ch 1, turn

Row 4: inc in next st, sc in next 10 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn

Row 5: inc in next st, sc in next 12 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn

Row 6: (picot in next st, sc in next 2 st) x7, picot in next st, sc in next st, sc down side of fin back to chain, sc in next 3 st along the chain, (picot in next st, sc in next 3 st) x7, (ch 2, sc in same st as current sc, sc in next 3) x10, sl st in final 2 st

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing on the fin. You’re so close to being done with Yoyo the Seahorse Free Crochet Pattern! Now, to sew on the fin…

Seahorse Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern Photo 15

Assembly

Starting with the end of the fin, start pinning it in pace, beginning at the end of the curled tail. Pin fin along the back, keeping it centered and ending on top of the head – just above and between the eyes. Use the long tail yarn and a tapestry needle to sew on fin, weaving it through every stitch on the fin and a stitch post on each of the rounds of the body. Be sure to weave it under the POST of the stitch, rather than just the top loops, which will ensure a more secure attachment. When you get to the opposite end of the fin, weave back through 5-6 times. Bring the yarn to the inside of the seahorse and cut.

I hope you had fun making Yoyo the Seahorse Free Crochet Pattern! I’d love to see photos of the colors you chose for yours! If you’d like to purchase the full 8-page printable PDF of Yoyo the Seahorse, you can do so from my Etsy shop here!

Seahorse Amigurumi Photo 4

Love crochet amigurumi? I have more animal and free food toy patterns! Here’s a couple you might be interested in: