Category: Animal Patterns

Rabbit Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

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Rabbit Free Crochet Pattern – Barnaby the Bunny Rabbit

2023 – it’s the year of the rabbit! In celebration of the Chinese New Year and the Year of the Rabbit, comes Barnaby the Rabbit free crochet pattern. This charming little bunny will be loved by you or the one you are making him for! He is dressed with a lovely pair of trousers and a scarf (both removable if you just want the bunny plain). And you’ll always find him nibbling on his carrot too!

Jump in with Barnaby now, or PIN the pattern for later here…

This pattern also has a supplemental video tutorial to crochet along with you for some of the more tricky bits like the ears and embroidery. You can find the video further along in this post!

This rabbit free crochet pattern is supported by ads on my blog. If you’d prefer to do some couch crocheting (like me!) you can find the 11-page PDF printable, ad-free pattern of Barnaby the Rabbit in my Etsy shop here.

Barnaby the Rabbit Free Crochet Pattern Notes & Tips:

This crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! The printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with LOTS of in-the-making photos for each step of the way as well.

Video Tutorial:

This rabbit free crochet pattern is accompanied by a video tutorial to help you with some of the more tricky parts. If you’re more of a visual learner or want to check out this supplemental tutorial.

Size & Gauge:

Size: Barnaby will end up being 11″ tall. His carrot is about 10″ tall including the stem and leaves.

Gauge: 4”x4” of single crochet = 28 stitches x 30 rows. Ultimately with toys, gauge doesn’t matter. It won’t have to fit someone’s body or a specific space. My patterns will include the size of the finished toy based on the yarn and hook I use. But if you want it smaller or bigger, just use a bigger yarn and hook! Just remember, when crocheting toys, crochet tightly and choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn size recommends in order to avoid holes between each stitch where the stuffing will show through.

Top 10 under $10 Sustainable Yarns Image Stylecraft naturals Organic Cotton DK Yarn

Yarn & Stuffing:

Yarn: Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I use 100% organic cotton yarn because I make these toys for my kids and need them to be functional. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and relatively inflexible so the toys don’t stretch and sag – even after being thrown across the house, down the stairs and adventured through every part of the garden!

Stuffing: Stuff more than you think you should. Not enough for the stitches to stretch and show holes, but enough to make the toy stiff and able to withstand the rough trials of toy life. The filling will compress a bit over time. I encourage you to use an alternative to poly-fill (unless it’s recycled!). Try using leftover yarn scraps and snippets or old non-donate-able clothes and materials cut into strips.

What makes this pattern eco -friendly and sustainable?

THE YARN: I use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn that has been ethically grown/raised and processed, putting the people and the planet first. This is why I chose Stylecraft’s organic versus conventional cotton for part of this pattern. The Rowan cotton yarn I use in this rabbit free crochet pattern isn’t organic, but Rowan as a company places a high emphasis on sustainable sourcing from ethical companies and implements environmentally sustainable practices throughout, so I feel good about supporting them by buying their yarn. You can read more about their brand values and sourcing policies on their website.

THE STUFFING: I used Hoooked 100% Recycled Fluffy Cotton Filling to stuff this toy. You can also use left over yarn snippets (save them all – they add up fast!) or old fiber you’ve cut into strips.

THE SLOW YARN MOVEMENT: I’m participating in the Slow Yarn Movement. There’s far too much to talk about here, but please take a few minutes to learn about what this means by reading the article I wrote about the Slow Yarn Movement as part of my Sustainable Crochet Series.

If you’re interested in learning more about sustainable crochet you can read all about it in the 6-part series I did covering everything about Sustainable Crochet and how to implement it into your own crafting starting today!

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern is for PERSONAL USE ONLY. This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, resold, distributed, published, altered, translated, posted or shared without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer using this verbiage, “This pattern was designed by Lindsey Roe and Off the Beaten Hook.” Thank you for your respectfulness!

This post contains affiliate links for materials I use and love. If you purchase something using one of these links I may earn a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my small business which allows me to provide you with free crochet patterns. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support!

Your Guide to Eco-Friendly and Sustainable Crochet Image Heart Yarn

Materials you will need for the Rabbit free crochet pattern:

Yarn:

Other Materials & Tools:

  • Crochet Hook: size 2.75 mm
  • Safety Eyes: size 6 mm (x2)
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Stitch Markers
  • Scissors
  • Stuffing

Abbreviations used in the Rabbit free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
hk – hook
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
fsc – foundation single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times
[…] – number of stitches in row/round

The Pattern

EARS – make 2:

NOTES:

  • Refer to the video tutorial for help with embroidering and attaching the ears
  • The ears are worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round
  • You will crochet the ears, flatten them, and then embroider the pink inside

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 [9]

Rnd 3: sc around [9]

Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) x3 [12]

Rnd 5: sc around [12]

Rnd 6: (sc 3, inc) x 3 [15]

Rnd 7: sc around [15]

Rnd 8: (sc 4, inc) x3 [18]

Rnd 9: sc around [18]

Rnd 10: (sc 5, inc) x 3 [21]

Rnd 11-22: sc around [21]

Rnd 23: (sc 5, dec) x3 [18]

Rnd 24: (sc 4, dec) x3 [15]

Embroider and prepare the ears:

Using a tapestry needle and the pink yarn, embroider the pink inside the ears. Flatten and pinch the ears and sew them closed across the bottom. The embroidery and sewing of the ears is included in the video tutorial as well!

HEAD:

NOTE: The head is worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round.

Rnd 1: st 6 sc in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: sc around [18]

Rnd 5: (sc 2, inc) x6 [24]

Rnd 6: sc around [24]

Rnd 7: (sc 3, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 8: sc around [30]

Rnd 9: (sc 4, inc) x6 [36]

Rnd 10: sc around [36]

Rnd 11: (sc 5, inc) x6 [42]

Rnd 12: sc around [42

Rnd 13: (sc 6, inc) x6 [48]

Rnd 14: sc around [48]

Rnd 15: (sc 7, inc) x6 [54]

Rnd 16: sc around [54]

Rnd 17-22: sc around [54]

ADD FACIAL FEATURES:

I demonstrate embroidering the nose, inserting the eyes and sewing on the ears in the video tutorial if you’d like some help with this!

NOSE: Using a tapestry needle and the pink yarn, embroider the nose by inserting the needle from inside to outside through the magic circle and back to the inside between rounds 3 and 4, using as your guide for the shape.

EYES: Insert safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, spaced by 20 stitches over the top of the nose.

EARS: Sew on the ears over rounds 21-24, spaced by about 6 stitches.

Continue with the head…

Rnd 23: (sc 7, dec) x6 [48]

Rnd 24: (sc 6, dec) x6 [42]

Rnd 25: (sc 5, dec) x6 [36]

Stuff head.

Rnd 26: (sc 4, dec) x6 [30]

Rnd 27: (sc 3, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 28: (sc 2, dec) x6 [18]

Rnd 29: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Stuff one last time.

Rnd 30: dec around [6]

Sl st in the next st and snip, leaving a long tail. Pull the tail through the final 2 loops. Using the yarn end and a tapestry needle, thread the yarn through the front loop only of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring the yarn to the inside and back out one of the side walls. Snip cleanly with the surface.

BODY:

NOTE:

  • Refer to the video tutorial for a demonstration on how to attach the collar to the neck prior to continuing on with the body beyond Rnd 2.
  • The body is worked in continuous rounds from the neck down – do not join after each round

Begin by chaining 30, slip knot to the first ch to close the circle.

Rnd 1: sc around [30]

Rnd 2: (sc 4, inc) x6 [36]

Sew the bunny neck to the underside of the head, centered over rounds 10-20:

Rnd 3-4: sc around [36]

Rnd 5: (sc 5, inc) x6 [42]

Rnd 6-7: sc around [42]

Rnd 8: (sc 6, inc) x6 [48]

Rnd 9-10: sc around[48]

Rnd 11: (sc 7, inc) x6 [54]

Rnd 12-14: sc around [54]

Rnd 15: (sc 8, inc) x6 [60]

Rnd 16-27: sc around [60]

Rnd 28: (sc 8, dec) x6 [54]

Rnd 29: sc around [54]

Rnd 30: (sc 7, dec) x6 [48]

Rnd 31: sc around [48]

Rnd 32: (sc 6, dec) x6 [42]

Rnd 33-34: sc around [42]

Split round 34 for the legs: There will be 16 st for each leg and 10 st for the gap in between – 5 from the front and 5 from the back.

It should be close already, but give or take a few stitches to position your hook at the back of the rabbit at the stitch just before the gap in the legs.

LEGS:

You now have your hook positioned for closing the gap between the legs. Holding the front and back together, sl st closed with 5 sl st. Then, Continue straight away to the first leg…

Rnd 35-37: sc around [16]

Rnd 38: (sc 2, dec) x4 [12]

Rnd 39-40: sc around [12]

Rnd 41: (sc, dec) x4 [8]

Sl st in the next st and snip, leaving a long tail. Pull the tail through the final 2 loops. Using the yarn end and a tapestry needle, thread the yarn through the front loop only of the remaining 8 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring the yarn to the inside and back out one of the side walls. Snip cleanly with the surface. Then, slip knot onto your hk and rejoin yarn on the inner back side of the second leg and repeat Rnd 35-41 for leg #2.

ARMS – make 2:

NOTE: The arms are worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round

Rnd 1: st 4 sc in a magic circle [4]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [8]

Rnd 3-22: sc around [8]

Fasten off and sew closed. (I don’t stuff the arms because I like them to be flexible, but feel free to stuff!) Sew the arms to the sides of the body at Rnd 2.

TAIL:

Rnd 1: st 6 sc in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-5: sc around [12]

Sl st to fasten and snip, leaving a long tail for sewing on. Stuff the tail and sew onto the bunny’s bum over rounds 27-31.

TROUSERS:

NOTES:

  • The trousers are worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round (except Rnd 1)
  • The chain 7 in Rnd 13 creates a hole where the tail pokes through. At this point, try the trousers on to be sure the hole is spaced appropriately compared to where you sewed the tail on. If needed, adjust the row where you make the chain 7 to fit properly.

Rnd 1: fsc 54. Join into a ring with a sl st, ch 1 [54]

Rnd 2: sc around [54]

Rnd 3: (sc 8, inc) x6 [60]

Rnd 4-11: sc around [60]

Rnd 12: (sc 8, dec) x6 [54]

Rnd 13: ch 7, sk 7, sc around [47 + 7 ch]

Rnd 14-15: sc around [54]

Rnd 16: (sc 7, dec) x6 [48]

Rnd 17-19: sc around [48]

Split Rnd 19 for the legs: There will be 19 st for each leg and 10 st for the gap in between – 5 from the front and 5 from the back.

It should be close already, but give or take a few stitches to position your hook at the back of the trousers at the stitch just before the gap in the legs. You now have your hook positioned for closing the gap between the legs. Holding the front and back together, sl st closed with 5 sl st. Fasten off and weave in end.

Make 2 suspenders: Chain 38 and tie onto trousers on the back. Before tying on, be sure your suspenders fit nice and snug. Add or remove chains as needed. Cross over each other, then bring over the shoulders and then tie onto front of trousers. Weave in ends.

SCARF:

Row 1: fsc 115 [115]

Fasten off and weave in ends. Add fringe by cutting 6 lengths of yarn, about 5 inches each (3 for each side). Collect 3 yarns together and fold in half. Insert your hook at the end of the scarf and pull through the 3 strands altogether, about halfway down their length. Tuck the ends through the loop you just pulled through and pull to fasten. Repeat on other side.

CARROT:

Carrot Stem:

NOTES:

  • The stem and leaves are worked by making a long chain and working your way back down the chain – I recommend crocheting into the back bump of the chain as it’s look and feel are more tight and clean
  • Use the Stylecraft Naturals Sea Green for the stem

Row 1: ch 30, sc in the 2nd ch from the hk, and in the next 7 ch, sl st in next 2 ch, (ch 9, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 7 ch, sl st in the next 2 ch along the stem) x3 for a total of 4 leaves. Sl st all the way back down the stem to the start of your chain.

Row 2: repeat row 1, except make a ch of 25 (rather than 30)

Row 3: repeat row 1, except make a ch of 20 (rather than 30)

Fasten off, leaving a tail of 4 inches.

Carrot:

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle – when you close the circle, don’t pull it all the way tight yet because you’ll want a bit of a hole to pull the yarn tails for the stem through [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Pull the stem yarn tails through the hole of the magic circle. Tighten the magic circle firmly. Grasping the magic circle tail and both of the tails of the stem, tie a knot as closely to the magic circle as possible. Knot it again.

Rnd 3-10: sc in each st around [12]

Rnd 11: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x3 [9]

Rnd 12-19: sc in each st around [9]

Rnd 20: (sc in next st, dec in next st) x3 [6]

Rnd 21-28: sc in each st around [6]

Rnd 29: dec around [3]

Pull yarn through last two loops and snip, leaving a 4 inch tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of the remaining 3 stitches. Fasten off. Snip, leaving 2 inches. Fray yarn end for root.

ADD LATERAL ROOT SCARS: Using a tapestry needle and a length of embroidery thread or a DK weight yarn split into two (4 strands each), weave your need into the carrot, towards the top and out the opposite side, then thread the needle back into the carrot, 2 stitches to the right or left. Continue this randomly several times over the carrot – about 10 – adding little bits of realistic root scars all around the outer skin. Pull gently with each one, so the root scars create little dimples, causing the carrot to become a bit bumpy all around.

Crochet Rainbow Carrot Main Image in Burlap Sack

Well done! I hope you had fun making this rabbit free crochet pattern. I would love to see your completed bunny rabbits! Please post pictures on instagram and tag me @offthebeatenhook and use #offthebeatenhook. Cheers!

WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO DO NOW? PIN this pattern for later, or check out more amigurumi patterns?

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Tooth Fairy Pillow Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

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Tooth Fairy Pillow Free Crochet Pattern

Losing teeth can be scary! Help your kiddo feel comforted AND add a little fun with this tooth fairy pillow free crochet pattern. With a functional crossbody satchel, this little fairy will trade a tooth for a treat. Just set near your little one’s pillow at night with their tooth in the satchel and swap the tooth for a treat for your little one to find in the morning! The satchel is removable. Made with 100% organic cotton, this tooth fairy is not only super soft and adorable, it is also sustainable and eco-friendly!

Make the pattern now or PIN it for later here!

Tooth Fairy Pillow Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin 1

A few months ago my son was getting his teeth cleaned when our dentist advised me that he will probably start losing teeth this year! I thought I would try to help ease the discomfort by designing this Tooth Fairy Pillow Free Crochet Pattern. I hope this one will be something that both my son and daughter will enjoy using. Maybe it’ll even get passed down to their kids one day!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the 12-page PDF printable, ad-free pattern of the Tooth Fairy Pillow on my Etsy shop here.

Tooth Fairy Pillow Free Crochet Pattern Pattern Preview Graphic

Tooth Fairy Pillow Free Crochet Pattern Notes & Tips:

This tooth fairy pillow free crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! If you’re more of a visual learner, the printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with over 40 photo tutorials to help you with each step along the way.

Size & Gauge:

Size: the Tooth Fairy will end up being 10″ tall x 11″ wide (inches)

Gauge: 4”x4” of single crochet = 20 stitches x 22 rows. Ultimately with toys, gauge doesn’t matter. It won’t have to fit someone’s body or a specific space. My patterns will include the size of the finished toy based on the yarn and hook I use. But if you want it smaller or bigger, just use a bigger yarn and hook! Just remember, when crocheting toys, crochet tightly and choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn size recommends in order to avoid holes between each stitch where the stuffing will show through.

Top 10 under $10 Sustainable Yarns Image Stylecraft naturals Organic Cotton DK Yarn

Yarn & Stuffing:

Yarn: Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I use 100% organic cotton yarn because I make these toys for my kids and need them to be functional. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and relatively inflexible so the toys don’t stretch and sag – even after being thrown across the house, down the stairs and adventured through every part of the garden!

It’s very important for me to use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn so I feel good about the impact I’m making on the environment with my craft. This is why I choose organic cotton versus conventional cotton.

Stuffing: Stuff more than you think you should. Not enough for the stitches to stretch and show holes, but enough to make the toy stiff and able to withstand the rough trials of toy life. The filling will compress a bit over time. I encourage you to use an alternative to poly-fill (unless it’s recycled!). Try using leftover yarn scraps and snippets or old non-donate-able clothes and materials cut into strips.

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern is for PERSONAL USE ONLY. This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, resold, distributed, published, altered, translated, posted or shared without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer using this verbiage, “This pattern was designed by Lindsey Roe and Off the Beaten Hook.” Thank you for your respectfulness!

This post contains affiliate links for materials I use and love. If you purchase something using one of these links I may earn a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my small business which allows me to provide you with free crochet patterns. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support!

Your Guide to Eco-Friendly and Sustainable Crochet Image Heart Yarn

Materials you will need:

Other than the Rico Essentials Organic Cotton Aran used for the tooth (which is the PERFECT color for a tooth by the way), I was able to shop my own yarn stash for the tooth fairy’s accessories – all of which were 100% cotton DK. Hopefully you can too because this is a great opportunity to use up some of the leftover bits you have. But if not, the colors above will be the perfect match!

  • RICO ESSENTIALS ORGANIC COTTON ARAN / 100% Organic Cotton | Weight 4/Aran
    • Colors & Number of balls:
  • RICO ESSENTIALS ORGANIC COTTON DK / 100% Organic Cotton | Weight 3/Light Worsted
    • NOUGAT – cross body pouch
    • LILAC – gloves & skirt waistband
    • MUSTARD – wings & skirt hem
    • RED – small leaves
  • STYLECRAFT NATURALS ORGANIC COTTON DK / 100% Organic Cotton | Weight 3/Light Worsted
  • Hook: 4.00 mm & 3.00 mm
  • Safety Eyes: 12 mm
  • Black embroidery thread (or black DK weight yarn split in half – about 4 strands)
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Stitch Markers
  • Scissors
  • Stuffing
  • Optional: wooden buttons for crossbody bag tie

Abbreviations used in the Tooth Fairy Pillow free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
hk – hook
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
fsc – foundation single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
tr – treble crochet
4-DcBo – double crochet bobble
inc – increase
dec – decrease
(…) x – repeat indicated number of times
[…] – number of stitches in row/round

Tooth Fairy Pillow Free Crochet Pattern Library Resource Graphic

The Pattern

NOTES:

  • The tooth is worked in continuous rounds from the top down – do not join after each round.
  • You will make two “cups” which will be joined to create the top bumps. Then, you will crochet around them and continuously until you split for the roots which are also crocheted in continuous rounds.
  • Use size 4.00mm hook for the tooth

TOOTH:

CUPS – make 2

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) x6 [42]

Rnd 8: (sc 6, inc) x6 [48]

Rnd 9-13: sc around [48]

Fasten off the first cup. Do not fasten off the second one as you will continue with your working yarn to join the cups and continue on with the rest of the tooth.

JOIN CUPS: Hold the two cups side by side and join by making 6 slip stitches through Rnd 13 of both pieces to join

Begin straight away where you left off with your last sl st…

Rnd 14-22 sc around [84]

Rnd 23: (sc 12, dec) x6 [78]

Rnd 24: sc around [78]

Rnd 25: (sc 11, dec) x6 [72]

Rnd 26-27: sc around [72]

Rnd 28: (sc 10, dec) x6 [66]

Rnd 29-30: sc around [66]

Rnd 31: (sc 9, dec) x6 [60]

Rnd 32-34: sc around [60]

Insert safety eyes between rounds 24 and 25, spaced by 20 stitches. Using a tapestry needle, embroider on eyelashes. Stuff tooth.

Crochet Tooth Up Close

ROOTS:

Split your work for the roots:

Each root will have 24 st, and then there will be 12 stitches (6 from front and 6 from back) that will be crocheted closed for the gap between the roots. Use stitch markers to mark these stitches as described.

Give or take a few stitches to be sure your hook is positioned in the stitch just before what’s about to become the gap between the roots. Hold the two sides of the tooth closed – 6 stitches against 6 stitches and slip stitch the two sides together (12 stitches – 6 from front and 6 from back). Then continue straight away into round 35 without fastening.

Rnd 35-46: sc in each st around [24] STUFF

  • TIPS:
    • A) I suggest placing a stitch marker on your first st of Rnd 35 so you can easily find it as you come back around.
    • B) the start of rnd 36 will connect the front to the back, closing the rounds for the first root.

Rnd 47: (sc 2, dec) x6 [18]

Rnd 48-49: sc around [18]

Rnd 50: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Rnd 51-52: sc around [12] STUFF

Rnd 53: dec around [6]

Snip leaving a long tail and pull through final two loops. Using a tapestry needle and the yarn tail, weave through the front loops of the final 6 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring to the inside and back out a side wall. Snip cleanly with the surface.

Rejoin yarn on the other side of the 6-slip stitch-gap, and repeat Rounds 35-53 for second root. Fasten off and close as directed for first root above.

Crochet Tooth One Root COmplete

SKIRT:

NOTES:

  • The skirt is worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round
  • Use size 3.00mm hook for the skirt

Start with the purple yarn.

Rnd 1: fsc 70 [70]

Rnd 2: sc around [70]

Switch to green yarn.

Rnd 3: make 3 dc in each st around [210]

Rnd 4: dc around [210]

Switch to gold yarn.

Rnd 5: sc around [210]

Fasten off and weave in end. Put skirt on tooth. Using a tapestry needle and a VERY long strand of purple yarn, weave the tapestry needle from front to back in between the first row (purple) of the skirt, several times to secure the skirt to the tooth.

Crochet Tooth with Skirt

CROSSBODY SATCHEL:

Use the brown yarn & 3.00mm hook

Rnd 1: st 6 hdc in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: hdc inc around [12]

Rnd 3: (hdc, hdc inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4-7: hdc around [18]

Rnd 8: dc around [18]

Fasten off and weave in end.

Make drawstring: chain 150. Knot off ends. Weave in and out of round 8 (dc round) and cinch to close. If you’re using beads for the ends of the drawstring, put those on now.

Crochet satchel
Crochet Tooth Up close of arm
Crochet Tooth fairy pillow up close of crossbody satchel

ARMS (make 2):

NOTES:

  • The arms are worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round
  • Use size 3.00mm crochet hook
  • You will start with the purple yarn for the gloves and switch to the tooth color to complete the arms

Start with purple yarn.

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-5: sc around [12]

Rnd 6: 4-DcBo in next st, sc in next 11 st [12]

Rnd 7-14: sc around [12]

Rnd 15: sl st around [12]

Complete the glove and color change as follows: Remove your hook from the loop and insert it under the next st from back to front. Snatch your loop and pull it to the back, then switch to white by yarning over with white and pulling it through the purple loop.

Pull on the ends to tighten. After you make a few stitches of Rnd 16, tie those purple and white ends together and stuff them inside. For round 16, you will work in the BLO of the purple from Rnd 14, found just behind the Rnd 15 of slip stitches.

Rnd 16: BLO sc around [12]

Rnd 17-23: sc around [12]

Sl st to fasten off and pull through loop, leaving a long tail for sewing on. Stuff very lightly and sew arms to sides of body over round 25, spaced about 7 stitches away from the eye.

Crochet Tooth with separate arms

WINGS – LARGE (make 2):

NOTES:

  • The wings are made by crocheting turning rows of half double crochet in the BACK LOOP ONLY
  • You will work into a magic circle – do not close the magic circle until all the rows are complete as you will need to be making slip stitches into the magic circle
  • Chain 1 and turn at the end of every row
  • Use the gold yarn

Leaving a long starting tail, begin by making a magic circle and slip knot onto your hook – do not close the magic circle. Then, chain 23.

Row 1: hdc in the 2nd back bump ch from hk and in each back bump ch thereafter [22]

Row 2: BLO hdc across, sl st into the magic circle, ch 1, turn [22]

Row 3: BLO hdc in next 19 st, leave final 3 st unworked [19]

Row 4: repeat row 2 [19]

Row 5: BLO hdc in next 16 st, leave final 3 st unworked [16]

Row 6: repeat row 2 [16]

Row 7: BLO hdc in next 13 st, leave final 3 st unworked [13]

Row 8: repeat row 2 [13]

Row 9: BLO hdc in next 10 st, leave final 3 st unworked [10]

Fasten off and weave in end. Pull magic circle tightly to close and cinch the wing.

WINGS – SMALL (make 2):

NOTES:

  • Refer to the notes and for “wings: large” as the small wings are made using the same method, just using shorter rows
  • Use the light green yarn

Leaving a long starting tail, begin by making a magic circle and slip knot onto your hook – do not close the magic circle. Then, chain 20.

Row 1: hdc in 2nd back bump ch from hk and in each back bump ch thereafter [19]

Row 2: BLO hdc across, sl st into the magic circle, ch 1, turn [19]

Row 3: BLO hdc in next 16 st, leave final 3 st unworked [16]

Row 4: repeat row 2 [16]

Row 5: BLO hdc in next 13 st, leave final 3 st unworked [13]

Row 6: repeat row 2 [13]

Row 7: BLO hdc in next 10 st, leave final 3 st unworked [10]

Fasten off and weave in end. Pull magic circle tightly to close.

Crochet Wings

ASSEMBLE AND ATTACH THE WINGS TO YOUR TOOTH FAIRY PILLOW:

  • Arrange the wings with the large on top and the small beneath – SEE PHOTO
  • Lay the small wings over top the large wings so that they have one row overlapping and are angled as shown in the photo –
  • Using the tail end of the small wing, sew the wings together (the stitches that show will be covered over with a leaf)
  • Sew wings to the back of the tooth over rounds 10-15 using the photos as a guide for placement
Crochet Tooth Fairy Pillow back side image

LEAVES:

NOTES:

  • The leaves are worked by making a chain and crocheting around both sides of it
  • You will make 10 leaves – 5 large and 3 small will be used for the leaf flower and 2 will be used as part of the wings on the back – to cover over the stitches that show when sewing the wings together

LARGE LEAVES – make 7 in your choice of color (I made 3 using the dark green yarn, 2 using the light green yarn and 2 using the peach yarn which were leftovers I had on hand):

Begin by chaining 12.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hk, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, tr in next 3 ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch. Continue onto the other side of the chain, and repeat the pattern for the 2nd side of the leaf.

Sl st to next st and fasten off. Leave a long tail on ONE of the leaves for sewing them all together. On the other leaves, weave in ends.

SMALL LEAVES – make 3, using the red yarn:

Begin by chaining 8.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hk, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch. Continue onto the other side of the chain, and repeat the pattern for the 2nd side of the leaf.

Sl st to next st and fasten off. Leave a long tail on ONE of the leaves for sewing them to the leaf flower. On the other leaves, weave in ends.

Crochet leaf Flower arrangement
Crochet Tooth Fairy up close of leaf flower for head

LEAF FLOWER ASSEMBLY:

  • Arrange 5 of the large leaves in a flower formation – SEE PHOTO
  • Using the long tail from one of the leaves, sew them together
  • Arrange the 3 small leaves on top of the large flower and sew them on
  • Sew the leaf flower onto the tooth at round 16, centered on the tooth “cup”
  • Sew the additional 2 large flowers over the middle of the wings on the back to cover any stitches showing on the wings

Well done! I hope you and your little one will enjoy this tooth fairy pillow so much.

I would love to see your completed pillows!. Please post pictures on instagram @offthebeatenhook and use #offthebeatenhook. Cheers!

PIN FOR LATER!

Tooth Fairy Pillow Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin 2
Tooth Fairy Pillow Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin 3

Did you love this Tooth Fairy Pillow free crochet pattern? Want more free amigurumi crochet patterns? Check these out!

Minion Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

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Minion Free Crochet Pattern

Who doesn’t love the Minions? They’re tiny, adorable and hilarious. The Despicable Me movies are a must-see if you haven’t already. My son Benjamin loves the Minions so I decided to make him one for Christmas this year. It’s my pleasure to get to share this Minion free crochet pattern with you as well!

Jump into the pattern now, or Pin it for later!

Minion Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin

This Minion free crochet pattern’s inspiration comes from Stuart Minion. Technically, Stuart’s hair lays down flat on his head (which you could definitely do with this guy too!), but I couldn’t resist giving him a fluffy little twit on top.

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the 9-page PDF printable, ad-free Minion pattern on my Etsy shop here.

Minion Free Crochet Pattern Pattern Preview

Minion Free Crochet Pattern Notes & Tips:

This Minion free crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! The printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with DOZENS of in-the-making photos for each step of the way as well.

Size & Gauge:

Size: This Minion will end up being 10″ tall.

Gauge: 4”x4” of single crochet = 14 stitches x 18 rows. Ultimately with toys, gauge doesn’t matter. It won’t have to fit someone’s body or a specific space. My patterns will include the size of the finished toy based on the yarn and hook I use. But if you want it smaller or bigger, just use a bigger yarn and hook! Just remember, when crocheting toys, crochet tightly and choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn size recommends in order to avoid holes between each stitch where the stuffing will show through.

Minion Free Crochet Pattern Up close of face

Yarn & Stuffing:

Yarn: Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I use 100% cotton yarn because I make these toys for my kids and need them to be functional. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and relatively inflexible so the toys don’t stretch and sag – even after being thrown across the house, down the stairs and adventured through every part of the garden!

It’s very important for me to use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn so I feel good about the impact I’m making on the environment with my craft. This is why I choose organic cotton versus conventional cotton. With this pattern, however, I shopped my stash because I have a bunch of yarn from years ago, before I started using only sustainable yarn. This pattern doesn’t take much yarn and I had all the colors I needed! Yay!

That said, in the materials list below I list the yarn I used for this pattern, even though I don’t normally recommend using conventional cotton.

Stuffing: Stuff more than you think you should. Not enough for the stitches to stretch and show holes, but enough to make the toy stiff and able to withstand the rough trials of toy life. The filling will compress a bit over time. I encourage you to use an alternative to poly-fill (unless it’s recycled!). Try using leftover yarn scraps and snippets or old non-donate-able clothes and materials cut into strips.

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern is for PERSONAL USE ONLY. This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, resold, distributed, published, altered, translated, posted or shared without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer using this verbiage, “This pattern was designed by Lindsey Roe and Off the Beaten Hook. http://www.offthebeatenhook.com” Thank you for your respectfulness!

Despicable Me and MINIONS are protected trade marks and copyright of Universal Studios. This pattern is my creative interpretation of those lovable characters, but the character is not my own invention.

Your Guide to Eco-Friendly and Sustainable Crochet Image Heart Yarn
This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my blog and small business which allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

Materials you will need:

Abbreviations used in the Minion free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
hk – hook
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
fsc – foundation single crochet
BLO – back loop only
inc – increase
dec – decrease
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times
[…] – number of stitches in row/round

Minion Free Crochet Pattern Held with hand

The Pattern

EYE:

NOTE: The eye is worked in rounds – to minimize seeing the color changes, you will join and chain at the end of each round. Join with a slip st, and pull in the new color in with the chain.

Start with black yarn

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Switch to brown yarn

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Switch to white yarn

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) x6 [24]

Fasten off and snip leaving a long tail for sewing.

Crochet Minion Method Eye

GOGGLE & STRAP:

NOTE: The goggle and strap are are worked as separate pieces – each beginning with a chainless foundation single crochet. If needed, you can find a video tutorial of how to make a chainless foundation single crochet in the resource library.

GOGGLE:

Row 1: fsc 28, join ends into a ring

Row 2-5: sc around [28]

Fasten off and snip leaving a long tail for sewing on. Fold ring in half, curling it into a double sided ring. Row 3 will end up being the center/top.

STRAP:

Row 1: fsc 54, join ends into a ring

Row 2: sc around [54]

Wait to fasten off strap until you’ve made and stuffed the head to be sure it is long enough to wrap around the head.

Crochet Minion Method Eye and Goggle

HEAD & BODY:

NOTES:

  • The head & body are worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round
  • Begin with yellow yarn

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) x6 [42]

Rnd 8: (sc 6, inc) x6 [48]

Rnd 9: (sc 7, inc) x6 [54]

Rnd 10-26: sc around [54]

Crochet Minion Head
  • ADD HAIR: Cut 6 strands of black yarn, 8″ each. Fold in half and pull one at a time to the inside in between rounds 1 & 2, plus one more straight through the center of the magic circle. Tie off to one another on the inside. Trim as desired.
  • EYE: Sew the eye to the center of the head over rounds 11-19.
  • GOGGLE & STRAP: Sew the goggle directly over the eye. Add the strap around the head, and sew along at several places to secure.
Crochet Minion Method Hair

Switch to blue yarn…

Rnd 27: sl sl around [54]

Rnd 28-30: sc around [54] Place Rnd 28 in between the top two loops of the sl st from Round 27

Rnd 31: (sc 7, dec) x6 [48]

Rnd 32: (sc 6, dec) x6 [42]

Rnd 33: (sc 5, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 34: (sc 4, dec) x6 [30] STUFF

Rnd 35: (sc 3, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 36: (sc 2, dec) x6 [18] STUFF

Rnd 37: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Rnd 38: dec around [6]

Sl st in the next st and snip, leaving a long tail. Pull the tail through the final 2 loops. Using the yarn end and a tapestry needle, thread the yarn through the front loop only of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring the yarn to the inside and back out one of the side walls. Snip cleanly with the surface.

Crochet Minion Method Single Crochet
ROUND 28

LEGS – make 2:

NOTES:

  • The legs are worked from the bottom of the foot up
  • The foot starts with a chain and is crocheted around both sides of the chain, and on up the leg

Using the black yarn, begin by chaining 5

Rnd 1: inc in 2nd ch from hk, sc 2, inc. Continue working on other side of the chain: inc, sc 2, inc [12]

Rnd 2: inc, sc 4, inc 2, sc 4, inc [16]

Rnd 3: BLO sc around [16]

Rnd 4: sc 6, dec 2, sc 6 [14]

Rnd 5: sc 5, dec 2, sc 5 [12]

Switch to blue yarn

Rnd 6-10: sc around [12]

Stuff and sew onto body/pants over rounds 33-36.

Minion Free Crochet Pattern Back of Finished Item

ARMS – make 2:

NOTE: The arms are worked in continuous rounds (do not join rounds) using the yellow yarn

Rnd 1: st 4 in a magic circle [4]

Rnd 2: inc around [8]

Rnd 3-14: sc around [8]

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

HANDS & GLOVES – make 2:

NOTES:

  • The hands/gloves are worked in continuous rounds from the wrist down to the fingers, using black
  • The fingers are worked individually onto the glove in continuous rounds

Leave a long starting tail and chain 10. Sl st to join into a ring and ch 1.

Rnd 1: sl st around [10]

Rnd 2: BLO sc around [10]

Rnd 3-4: sc around [10]

Rnd 5: (inc, sc 4) x2 [12]

Using stitch markers, split the round into fingers – each finger will have 4 stitches.

Picking up where you left off, begin making the first finger…

Rnd 6: sc 2, then join to opposite side of glove with a sc to close the round for the 1st finger, sc in next st, completing the first row of the finger.

Rnd 7-8: sc around [4]

Sl st and snip leaving a long tail. Using the yarn tail and a tapestry needle, weave the yarn through the front loop of the remaining 4 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring yarn to inside.

Rejoin black yarn in the next available st, and repeat Rnd 6-8 for the 2nd and 3rd fingers. Pull all yarn tails to the inside except for the starting tail which you will use to sew on. Put glove onto hand and using a tapestry needle, pass the yarn back and forth several times under Rnd 1 to secure the glove onto the arm.

Crochet Minion Side Shoulder

BIBS & STRAPS – make 2:

NOTES:

  • The bibs and straps are worked in turning rows using the blue yarn – chain 1 and turn at the end of each row
  • The turning chain does not count as a stitch

TROUSER BIBS:

Row 1: fsc 13, ch 1, turn

Rnd 2-3: sc across [13]

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the bibs onto the center front and back, lining the first row of the bib over the first round of the blue pants (round 27).

TROUSER STRAPS:

Row 1: fsc 20

Fasten off and snip leaving a very long tail for sewing on. Sew the straps onto the corners of the bibs, but wait to finish off the strap securing until after you sew on the arms – then you’ll know exactly where the strap should be sewn up over the shoulder. If using the optional buttons for the straps, sew those on now.

FINALLY, FINISH UP YOUR MINION FREE CROCHET PATTERN:

  • Stuff the arms lightly and sew them to the sides at round 21.
  • Pull the trouser straps up over the shoulder and finish securing on by using a tapestry needle and taking several stitches all along it from out to in, out to in.
  • Using black yarn, embroider on the mouth.
  • Clean up, bringing all yarn tails to the inside and snipping clean with the surface.
  • Stop, admire your skills and enjoy your Minion! Well done!

I would love to see your completed MINION. Please post pictures on instagram and tag me @offthebeatenhook and use #offthebeatenhook. Cheers!

Minion Free Crochet Pattern Resource Library Graphic

Did you love this Minion free crochet pattern? Want more free amigurumi crochet patterns? Check these out!

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

Lindsey5 Comments

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern – Cinnamon the Grizzly Bear

Cinnamon the grizzly bear is the most uncommon and special teddy bear crochet pattern you’ll find! Hailing from the Canadian Rocky Mountains, Cinnamon cozies up in his scarf, mittens and hat to keep him warm before winter comes. Bring him to life in this free teddy bear crochet pattern!

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin

Years back, my husband and I lived for several months in the beautiful Calgary, British Columbia, Canada. During our time there we backpacked over 100 miles in the Canadian Rocky Mountain backcountry just west of Calgary. And I’m telling you first-hand, “lions and tigers and BEARS, OH MY” is REAL…at least the BEARS part. I have never seen so many bears in my life. There was ONE day I counted no less than 8 bears.

But one bear in-particular stands out in my memory – a HUGE male grizzly bear. He was at least 7 feet long. He was the exact color of Cinnamon. And he was gorgeous. Here’s an actual photo of him that we took:

So in honor of this grand and respected creature, Cinnamon the grizzly teddy bear is born. Although he might not be as powerful and intimidating as his real-life counterpart, Cinnamon highlights the cute and cuddly side of these awesome animals.

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the 11-page PDF printable, ad-free pattern of Cinnamon the Grizzly on my Etsy shop here.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Preview Image

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Notes & Tips:

This teddy bear free crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! The printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with LOTS of in-the-making photos (40 of them!) for each step of the way as well.

Size & Gauge:

Size: Cinnamon will end up being 10″ tall.

Gauge: 4”x4” of single crochet = 28 stitches x 30 rows. Ultimately with toys, gauge doesn’t matter. It won’t have to fit someone’s body or a specific space. My patterns will include the size of the finished toy based on the yarn and hook I use. But if you want it smaller or bigger, just use a bigger yarn and hook! Just remember, when crocheting toys, crochet tightly and choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn size recommends in order to avoid holes between each stitch where the stuffing will show through.

Top 10 under $10 Sustainable Yarns Image Stylecraft naturals Organic Cotton DK Yarn

Yarn & Stuffing:

Yarn: Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I use 100% organic cotton yarn because I make these toys for my kids and need them to be functional. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and relatively inflexible so the toys don’t stretch and sag – even after being thrown across the house, down the stairs and adventured through every part of the garden!

It’s very important for me to use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn so I feel good about the impact I’m making on the environment with my craft. This is why I choose organic cotton versus conventional cotton.

Stuffing: Stuff more than you think you should. Not enough for the stitches to stretch and show holes, but enough to make the toy stiff and able to withstand the rough trials of toy life. The filling will compress a bit over time. I encourage you to use an alternative to poly-fill (unless it’s recycled!). Try using leftover yarn scraps and snippets or old non-donate-able clothes and materials cut into strips.

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, sold, distributed or translated without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer. Thank you for your respectfulness!

Your Guide to Eco-Friendly and Sustainable Crochet Image Heart Yarn
This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my blog and small business which allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

Materials you will need for this crochet pattern:

Abbreviations used in the teddy bear free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
hk – hook
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
fhdc – foundation half double crochet
fdc – foundation double crochet
DcBo – double crochet bobble stitch
BLO – back loop only
inc – increase
dec – decrease
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times
[…] – number of stitches in row/round

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image bare

The Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern:

Notes:

  • Cinnamon and his parts are worked in continuous rounds – do not join after rounds unless otherwise stated

Ears – make 2:

Use the brown yarn.

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-6: sc in each st around [12]

Fasten with a sl st. Snip, leaving a long tail for sewing on.

Snout:

The snout is worked in continuous rounds – do not join rounds.

Use the brown yarn.

Rnd 1: st 5 in a magic circle [5]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [10]

Rnd 3: BLO sc in each at around [10]

Rnd 4: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 8 st [12]

Rnd 5: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 9 st [13]

Rnd 6: sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 9 st [14]

Rnd 7: sc in next 3 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 9 st [16]

Rnd 8: sc in next 4 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 10 st [18]

Rnd 9: sc in next 5 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 11 st [20]

Fasten with a sl st. Snip, leaving a long tail for sewing on.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image 1

EMBROIDER THE NOSE & MOUTH:

NOSE: Using black DK weight yarn doubled up through a tapestry needle, begin your embroidery of the the nose by inserting your needle through the middle of the magic circle inside to outside. Insert it back to the inside through a stitch directly on the left of the nose between rounds 3 and 4. Repeat on the opposite side of the nose – you now have the bottom edge of the nose. Repeat threading your needle through the magic circle and back through stitches between rounds 3 and 4 all the way over the bridge of the nose. About half way through, switch to the opposite side and work my way back to the middle to be sure everything lines up properly.

MOUTH: Continue on with the mouth; after threading the needle out of the magic circle, insert the needle directly underneath the nose between rounds 4 and 5. Bring the needle back out between rounds 6 and 7 – 2 stitches back from the edge of the nose. Repeat on opposite side. Tie off on the inside of the nose and stuff in the tail ends.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image 2

HEAD & BODY:

The head and body are worked in continuous rounds – do not join rounds.

Use the brown yarn.

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 10-20: sc in each st around [54]

Rnd 21: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 22: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 23: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) x6 [36]

  • Stuff the snout and sew it to the head over rounds 14-22
  • Insert the safety eyes to the left and right of the snout between rounds 15 & 16
  • Flatten the ears and sew to the head over rounds 4-9 centered over the top of the head, using the snout as your guide for the center of the face

Rnd 24: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 25: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 26: sc in each st around [48]

Rnd 27: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 28-29: sc in each st around [54]

Rnd 30: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) x6 [60]

Stuff head.

Rnd 31-45: sc in each st around [60]

Rnd 46: (sc in next 8 st, dec in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 47: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 48: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 49: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) x6 [36]

Stuff body.

Split your work for the legs: there will be 15 stitches for each leg and 6 stitches in the gap (3 in front and 3 in back). Use stitch markers to mark these stitches, being sure to center them to the face of the bear.

If needed, make or remove a couple of sc to get to your starting point for the left leg. Your starting point will be at the back of the left leg, just to the right of the stitch marker. Join the back to the front by completing a single crochet (this is the first sc of round 50).

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image 3

LEGS:

LEFT LEG:

Rnd 50-57: sc in each st around [15]

Rnd 58: sc in next 5 st, dec in next st, sc in next 8 st [14]

Rnd 59: sc in next 3 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 7 st [12]

Rnd 60: sc in next 2 st, inc in next 4 st, sc in next 6 st [16]

Rnd 61: sc in next 5 st, inc in next 4 st, sc in next 7 st [20]

Rnd 62-63: sc in each st around [20]

Rnd 64: sc in next 2 st, (dec in next st, sc in next st) x6 [14]

Stuff leg & foot.

Rnd 65: dec in each st around [7]

Snip, leaving a tail for closing the circle. Using the yarn tail and a tapestry needle, weave the yarn through the front loop of each remaining 7 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring the yarn to the inside.

Finish stuffing the body.

RIGHT LEG:

Leaving a long starting tail, slip knot onto your hk and rejoin on the back side in the stitch to the left of the stitch marker, marking the second leg (3 stitches away from the left leg.

Rnd 50: sc in the next 15 st [15]

Rnd 51: join the front and back side by completing a sc, sc in the next 14 st [15]

Rnd 52-57: sc in each st around [15]

Rnd 58: sc in next 9 st, dec in next st, sc in next 4 st [14]

Rnd 59: sc in next 8 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 2 st [12]

Rnd 60: sc in next 7 st, inc in next 4 st , sc in next st [16]

Rnd 61: sc in next 9 st, inc in next 4 st, sc in next 3 st [20]

Rnd 62-63: sc in each st around [20]

Rnd 64: sc in next 2 st, (dec in next st, sc in next st) x6 [14]

Stuff leg & foot.

Rnd 65: dec in each st around [7]

Snip, leaving a tail for closing the circle. Using the yarn tail and a tapestry needle, weave the yarn through the front loop of each remaining 7 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring the yarn to the inside.

Finish stuffing body through the gap between legs. Using the long starting yarn tail from Rnd 50 of right leg, and a tapestry needle, sew closed the gap between the legs. Bring yarn to inside and snip.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image tail

ARMS:

The arms are worked in continuous rounds – do not join rounds.

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-18: sc in each st around [12]

Fasten with a sl st, leaving a long tail for sewing on. Stuff arms, leaving about a 1/2 inch to the top unstuffed, or else the arms won’t lay down – they’ll stick straight out. Sew the arms closed, and sew them to the sides of the body at round 24.

TAIL:

The tail is worked in continuous rounds.

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-5: sc in each st around [12]

Fasten with a sl st, leaving a long tail for sewing on. Stuff tail and sew to the back of the body, centered, over rounds 43-46.

SCARF:

For every round on the scarf, sl st to join each round and ch 1 before beginning the next round.

Start with off-white yarn

Rnd 1: fhdc 45, join into a ring with a sl st, ch 1 [45]

Rnd 2: hdc in each st around [45]

Switch to navy blue yarn.

Rnd 3-6: hdc in each st around [45]

Switch to off-white yarn.

Rnd 7-8: hdc in each st around [45]

Fasten off and weave in end.

Just a couple more accessories and your teddy bear free crochet pattern will be complete!

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image scarf

HAT:

Make a small, 1.5″ pom-pom with the blue yarn. If you need help, you will find a video tutorial on my website on how to make a pom-pom. You don’t need any additional tools, but a pom-pom maker is helpful.

Start with the blue yarn

Rnd 1: fdc 40, ch 1, turn [40]

Rnd 2: (fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st) around [40]

Switch to citronelle yarn

Rnd 3-4: hdc in each st around [40]

Switch to blue yarn

Rnd 5-6: hdc in each st around [40]

Switch to citronelle yarn

Rnd 7: hdc in next 11 st, ch 6, sk next 6 st, hdc in next 6 st, ch 6, sk next 6 st, hdc in next 11 st [40]

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image hat

Switch to blue yarn

Rnd 8: (hdc in next 6 st, dec hdc in next st) x5 [35]

Rnd 9: hdc in each st around [35]

Switch to citronelle yarn

Rnd 10: (hdc in next 5 st, dec hdc in next st) x5 [30]

Rnd 11: hdc in each st around [30]

Switch to blue yarn

Rnd 12: (hdc in next 4 st, dec hdc in next st) x5 [25]

Rnd 13: hdc in each st around [25]

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image accessories

Switch to citronelle

Rnd 14: (hdc in next 3 st, dec hdc in next st) x5 [20]

Rnd 15: hdc in each st around [20]

Sl st to next st. Snip leaving a long yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail in and out around each of the posts of rnd 15 (front to back under one, back to front under the next, etc, all the way around). Pull tail to close. Bring yarn to inside and fasten off.

Pull the yarn tails of the pom-pom through the center top hold of the hat. Grab hold of the yellow yarn tail from the hat, along with the 2 yarn tails from the pom-pom and knot them tightly on the inside of the hat, as close to the inside tip of the hat as possible. Knot it again.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image mitten

MITTENS:

Use the citronelle yarn

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: hdc inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-4: hdc in each st around [12]

Rnd 5: 5-DcBo in next st, hdc in next 11 st [12]

Rnd 6: hdc in each st around, sl st to join rnd, ch 1 [12]

Rnd 7: dc in each st around [12]

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image close up

You’re done! Finally, put on his cozy scarf, his hat and his little mittens. Look at Cinnamon! Isn’t he so cozy and cuddly?

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image put together

You did it! Stop and admire your little teddy bear crochet masterpiece!

I would love to see your completed Cinnamon bears. Please post pictures on instagram and tag me @offthebeatenhook. Happy hooking!

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Resource Library Graphic

Did you love this teddy bear free crochet pattern? Want more free amigurumi crochet patterns? Check these out!

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 6

Lindsey5 Comments

Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern – Jag the Sea Nettle

I grew up on the Pacific Ocean, so all things ocean and sea creatures are part of my soul. My son, although being raised inland, has the same fascination as I do. “Please make me a jellyfish next” he asked me. “ABSOLUTELY!” I replied, without a moment’s hesitation. I love it when he chooses things that I know I will love just as much as he does. And when I looked at the jellyfish upon completion, I knew it was just what we were looking for – charming, adorable, AND realistic. Then, when my son named her Jag, I fell in love. Her name couldn’t be more perfect. I hope you love this Jag the Jellyfish free crochet pattern as much as we do!

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin

Jag’s inspiration comes from the Pacific Sea Nettle – one of the commonly found types of jellyfish found in the Pacific Ocean. Sea Nettles are also found in the Atlantic Ocean (Atlantic Sea Nettle). Sea Nettles have a distinct fat arm (commonly mis-identified as a tentacle) dangling down in between a plethora of skinny tentacles that adorn the margin of their bell. I always try to find a balance between an inviting character and a realistic interpretation of the major identifying features of the animal. I really think I hit that mark with this jellyfish free crochet pattern. I hope you agree!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the 7-page PDF printable, ad-free pattern of Jag the Jellyfish on my Etsy shop here.

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Preview Image
This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my blog and small business which allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

General Notes:

This jellyfish free crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! The printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with LOTS of in-the-making photos for each step of the way as well.

Size & Gauge:

Size: Jag will end up being 21″ from top of head to tip of tentacle.

Gauge: 4”x4” of single crochet = 28 stitches x 30 rows. Ultimately with toys, gauge doesn’t matter. It won’t have to fit someone’s body or a specific space. My patterns will include the size of the finished toy based on the yarn and hook I use. But if you want it smaller or bigger, just use a bigger yarn and hook! Just remember, when crocheting toys, crochet tightly and choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn size recommends in order to avoid holes between each stitch where the stuffing will show through.

Top 10 under $10 Sustainable Yarns Image Stylecraft naturals Organic Cotton DK Yarn

Yarn & Stuffing:

Yarn: Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I use 100% organic cotton yarn because I make these toys for my kids and need them to be functional. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and relatively inflexible so the toys don’t stretch and sag – even after being thrown across the house, down the stairs and adventured through every part of the garden!

It’s very important for me to use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn so I feel good about the impact I’m making on the environment with my craft. This is why I choose organic cotton versus conventional cotton.

Stuffing: Stuff more than you think you should. Not enough for the stitches to stretch and show holes, but enough to make the toy stiff and able to withstand the rough trials of toy life. The filling will compress a bit over time. I encourage you to use an alternative to poly-fill (unless it’s recycled!). Try using leftover yarn scraps and snippets or old non-donate-able clothes and materials cut into strips.

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, sold, distributed or translated without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer. Thank you for your respectfulness!

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 6

Materials you will need:

Abbreviations used in the jellyfish free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
hk – hook
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
fsc – foundation single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
tc – treble crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times
[…] – number of stitches in row/round

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 4

The Pattern

Notes:

  • Jag is worked from the bell (head) down
  • The bell and the tentacles are all worked in one piece. The big center arm is worked separately and sewn on.
  • Round 12 & round 24 call for a “long single crochet”. Here are the “Long single crochet” instructions. You can also reference PHOTOS 02-05 (in the printable pattern): complete a single crochet, but rather than inserting your hook into the next st of the current row, you will insert your hook into the stitch a few rows immediately below the stitch and complete the single crochet over top the next one of the row (3 or 4 rows below as specified in the pattern below)

BELL:

Start with light blue yarn

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 11: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) x6 [66]

Switch to dark blue yarn

Rnd 12: (long sc in next st skipping 3 rows, sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) x6 [72]

Rnd 13: (sc in next 11 st, inc in next st) x6 [78]

Rnd 14: (sc in next 12 st, inc in next st) x6 [84]

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 2

Switch to yellow yarn

Rnd 15-16: sc in each st around [84]

Switch to light blue yarn

Rnd 17-23: sc in each st around.

Switch to yellow yarn

Rnd 24: (sc in next 5, long sc in next st skipping 4 rows) x14 [84]

Rnd 25: sc in each st around [84]

Rnd 26: (sc in next 12 st, dec in next st) x6 [78]

Rnd 27: (sc in next 11 st, dec in next st) x6 [72]

Rnd 28: FLO (sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, tc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st) x9 [72]

Switch to dark blue yarn (do not snip yellow – you will pick it up again in round 29)

Rnd 29: (sc in the next 7, sl st in the next st) x9 [72]

Invisible fasten and bring yarn to inside: Remove your hook from the loop and insert it back to front (inside to outside) through the next stitch, grap your loop and pull it to the inside. Snip the blue, and pull the yarn end through the loop and pull tightly to close. SEE “INVISIBLE FASTEN” (in the printable pattern)

Switch back to yellow: pick up yellow where you left off after round 28. For round 30, You’ll be working in the BACK LOOP ONLY of round 28 – the loop that you didn’t use when you were working in the FRONT LOOP ONLY during round 28.

Rnd 30: BLO of Rnd 28 (sc in the next 10, dec in the next st) x6 [66]

Insert safety eyes between rounds 25 & 26, spaced apart by 15 stitches. Embroider on 3 eyelashes for each eye branching out from the top corners of the eyes.

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 3

TENTACLES

Rnd 31: (sc in the next st, ch 100, sl st in each back bump down the chain back to the head, sc in the next 4 st, ch 100, sl st in each back bump down the chain back to the head, sc in the next 4 st, dec in the next st) x6 [60]

Switch to light blue yarn

Rnd 32: (sc in next 8 st, dec in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 33: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 34: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 35: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 36: (sc in next 4 st, dec in next st) x6 [30]

Start to stuff head

Rnd 37: (sc in next 3 st, dec in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 38: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x6 [18]

Finish stuffing head

Rnd 39: (sc in next st, dec in next st) x6 [12]

Rnd 40:(sc in the next st, dec in the next st) x6 [6]

Snip, leaving a tail. Using a tapestry needle and the yarn tail, weave the yarn through the front loop of each of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tightly to close.

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 5

CENTER ARM:

Begin with light blue yarn

Row 1: FDC 75, ch 1, turn [75]

Row 2: 3 sc in the next 30 st, 3 hdc in the next 25 st, 3 dc in the next 20 st, ch 1, turn [225]

Row 3: 3 dc in the next 50 st, 3 hdc in the next 35 st, 2 sc in the next 140 (rest of row), ch 1, turn [535]

Switch to dark blue yarn

Row 4 (contrast border): sc in the next 100 st, switch to light blue yarn, 2 hdc in the next 40, 2 dc in the next 395 (to end of row), ch 1, turn [970]

Switch back to dark blue yarn

Row 5: sc in each st until you meet back up with the row of dark blue you made in Row 4

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Just one more step and you’ll have completed this jellyfish free crochet pattern!

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 1

ATTACH THE ARM:

Using a tapestry needle and a length of light blue yarn, sew the arm onto the center of the underside of the bell of the jellyfish. You’ll want to weave the yarn in and out several times in order to secure part of the arm to the underside of the jellyfish. The arm is heavy and if you don’t secure it well, it will dangle precariously.

You’ll use a short section of the fattest part of the arm and sew it up under the jellyfish. Pull the yarn to the inside.

You did it! Stop and admire your skilllz!

I would love to see your completed jellyfish. Please post pictures on instagram and tag me @offthebeatenhook. Cheers!

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Resource Library Graphic

Did you love this jellyfish free crochet pattern? Want more free amigurumi crochet patterns? Check these out!

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

LindseyLeave a comment

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern

The thing that makes me the most jealous about Narwhals is they get to eat fresh halibut, cod, and shrimp every day. In fact that’s probably the ONLY thing that makes me jealous of Narwhals. Living most of my life under a thick sheet of ice just doesn’t sound pleasant. Nonetheless, the unicorns of the sea are beautiful and intriguing. And I hope I do them justice with my Filip the Narwhal free crochet pattern.

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the printable, ad-free pattern of Filip the Narwhal on my Etsy shop here.

Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Preview Image
This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my blog and small business which allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

General Notes:

This narwhal free crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! The printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with LOTS of in-the-making photos for each step of the way as well.

Size & Gauge:

Size: Filip will end up being 20″ from tail to tusk & 4.5″ wide.

Gauge: 4”x4” of single crochet = 28 stitches x 30 rows. Ultimately with toys, gauge doesn’t matter. It won’t have to fit someone’s body or a specific space. My patterns will include the size of the finished toy based on the yarn and hook I use. But if you want it smaller or bigger, just use a bigger yarn and hook! Just remember, when crocheting toys, crochet tightly and choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn size recommends in order to avoid holes between each stitch where the stuffing will show through.

Yarn & Stuffing:

Yarn: Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I use 100% organic cotton yarn because I make these toys for my kids and need them to be functional. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and relatively inflexible so the toys don’t stretch and sag – even after being thrown across the house, down the stairs and adventured through every part of the garden!

It’s very important for me to use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn so I feel good about the impact I’m making on the environment with my craft. This is why I choose organic cotton versus conventional cotton.

Stuffing: Stuff more than you think you should. Not enough for the stitches to stretch and show holes, but enough to make the toy stiff and able to withstand the rough trials of toy life. The filling will compress a bit over time. I encourage you to use an alternative to poly-fill (unless it’s recycled!). Try using leftover yarn scraps and snippets or old non-donate-able clothes and materials cut into strips.

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, sold, distributed or translated without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer. Thank you for your respectfulness!

Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin

Materials you will need:

Abbreviations used in the narwhal free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
sc – single crochet
dec – decrease
inc – increase
[…] – number of stitches in row
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image Birdseye Completed

The Pattern

Notes:

  • the head and body are crocheted in continuous rounds – do not join
  • the head and body use the denim colored yarn

Head & Body:

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6] When you pull to close the magic circle, first insert your dowel through the circle. You don’t want to pull it all the way tight to close or the dowel will be impossible to insert later.

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 8-17: sc in each st around [42]

Rnd 18: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 19: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 20-21: sc in each st around [54]

Rnd 22: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 23-24: sc in each st around [60]

Rnd 25: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) x6 [66]

Insert safety eyes between rounds 15 & 16, spaced over the top of the head by 39 st (bottom of head will have 27 st in between eyes)

Rnd 26-45: sc in each st around [66] START TO STUFF

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image rounds

Rnd 46: (sc in next 9 st, dec in next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 47-51: sc in each st around [60]

Rnd 52: (sc in next 8 st, dec in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 53-57: sc in each st around [54]

Rnd 58: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 59-61: sc in each st around [48]

Rnd 62: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 63-65: sc in each st around [42]

Rnd 66: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 67-69: sc in each st around [36] STUFF

Rnd 70: (sc in next 4 st, dec in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 71-73: sc in each st around [30]

Rnd 74: (sc in next 3 st, dec in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 75-76: sc in each st around [24]

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image continuous rounds

Rnd 77: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 78-79: sc in each st around [18]

Rnd 80: (sc in next st, dec in next st) x6 [12]

Rnd 81: sc in each st around [12] STUFF

Rnd 82: dec in each st around [6]

Fins – make 2

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-5: sc in each st around [12]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x3 [9]

Rnd 7-9: sc in each st around [9]

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image fins

Tail – make 2

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: sc in each st around [6]

Rnd 3: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 5: sc in each st around [18]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 7-10: sc in each st around [24]

Rnd 11: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 12-14: sc in each st around [18]

Rnd 15: (sc in next st, dec in next st) x6 [12]

Rnd 16: sc in each st around [12]

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image tail

Tusk

Rnd 1: st 4 in a magic circle [4]

Rnd 2: sc in each st around [4]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x2 [6]

Rnd 4: sc in each st around [6]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x2 [8]

Rnd 6-11: sc in each st around [8]

Rnd 12: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x2 [10]

Rnd 13-42*: sc in each st around [10]

*The tusk will be approximately 7″ long if you’d rather just flow with it for a while and measure, versus counting rows. Alternatively if you want to count stitches, you’ll make 300 stitches between rounds 13-42. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

You’re done with all the components of Filip the Narwhal free crochet pattern. Now all you have to do is put it all together.

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image tusk

Assembly:

Assemble the narwhal:

  • Sew the tail pieces to the sides of the body over rounds 78-82, using the eyes as a centering point.
  • Sew the fins to the sides of the body over rounds 29-32, spaced across the tummy by 20 stitches.
  • Cut your dowel to the length of the narwhal body (approx. 12″)
Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image tusk and dowel
  • Slide the tusk over one end of the dowel (I didn’t have to stuff my tusk because the dowel was the same width as the tusk. But, if your dowel is skinnier than the tusk, you may want to consider adding some stuffing)
  • Push the other side of the dowel into the center of the nose on the body until the end of the tusk meets up with the nose. You’ll have to wiggle and push and work your way through the magic circle in the nose and through the dense stuffing.
  • Use a tapestry needing and the yarn tail of the tusk to sew the tusk to the body over round 2, threading the needle through the inside loop of a stitch on the tusk and one loop of a stitch on round 2. Repeat all the way around with each of the 12 stitches. Pull the yarn tail back and forth under the tusk a couple times to secure the yarn and snip.
Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image Tusk Sewn on

Admire your crochet skills. You did it! I’d love to see your finished narwhal free crochet pattern results! Please tag me on instagram @offthebeatenhook with pictures!

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Resource Library Graphic

Want more free amigurumi crochet patterns? Check these out!