Rabbit Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

Rabbit Free Crochet Pattern – Barnaby the Bunny Rabbit

2023 – it’s the year of the rabbit! In celebration of the Chinese New Year and the Year of the Rabbit, comes Barnaby the Rabbit free crochet pattern. This charming little bunny will be loved by you or the one you are making him for! He is dressed with a lovely pair of trousers and a scarf (both removable if you just want the bunny plain). And you’ll always find him nibbling on his carrot too!

Jump in with Barnaby now, or PIN the pattern for later here…

This pattern also has a supplemental video tutorial to crochet along with you for some of the more tricky bits like the ears and embroidery. You can find the video further along in this post!

This rabbit free crochet pattern is supported by ads on my blog. If you’d prefer to do some couch crocheting (like me!) you can find the 11-page PDF printable, ad-free pattern of Barnaby the Rabbit in my Etsy shop here.

Barnaby the Rabbit Free Crochet Pattern Notes & Tips:

This crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! The printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with LOTS of in-the-making photos for each step of the way as well.

Video Tutorial:

This rabbit free crochet pattern is accompanied by a video tutorial to help you with some of the more tricky parts. If you’re more of a visual learner or want to check out this supplemental tutorial.

Size & Gauge:

Size: Barnaby will end up being 11″ tall. His carrot is about 10″ tall including the stem and leaves.

Gauge: 4”x4” of single crochet = 28 stitches x 30 rows. Ultimately with toys, gauge doesn’t matter. It won’t have to fit someone’s body or a specific space. My patterns will include the size of the finished toy based on the yarn and hook I use. But if you want it smaller or bigger, just use a bigger yarn and hook! Just remember, when crocheting toys, crochet tightly and choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn size recommends in order to avoid holes between each stitch where the stuffing will show through.

Top 10 under $10 Sustainable Yarns Image Stylecraft naturals Organic Cotton DK Yarn

Yarn & Stuffing:

Yarn: Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I use 100% organic cotton yarn because I make these toys for my kids and need them to be functional. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and relatively inflexible so the toys don’t stretch and sag – even after being thrown across the house, down the stairs and adventured through every part of the garden!

Stuffing: Stuff more than you think you should. Not enough for the stitches to stretch and show holes, but enough to make the toy stiff and able to withstand the rough trials of toy life. The filling will compress a bit over time. I encourage you to use an alternative to poly-fill (unless it’s recycled!). Try using leftover yarn scraps and snippets or old non-donate-able clothes and materials cut into strips.

What makes this pattern eco -friendly and sustainable?

THE YARN: I use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn that has been ethically grown/raised and processed, putting the people and the planet first. This is why I chose Stylecraft’s organic versus conventional cotton for part of this pattern. The Rowan cotton yarn I use in this rabbit free crochet pattern isn’t organic, but Rowan as a company places a high emphasis on sustainable sourcing from ethical companies and implements environmentally sustainable practices throughout, so I feel good about supporting them by buying their yarn. You can read more about their brand values and sourcing policies on their website.

THE STUFFING: I used Hoooked 100% Recycled Fluffy Cotton Filling to stuff this toy. You can also use left over yarn snippets (save them all – they add up fast!) or old fiber you’ve cut into strips.

THE SLOW YARN MOVEMENT: I’m participating in the Slow Yarn Movement. There’s far too much to talk about here, but please take a few minutes to learn about what this means by reading the article I wrote about the Slow Yarn Movement as part of my Sustainable Crochet Series.

If you’re interested in learning more about sustainable crochet you can read all about it in the 6-part series I did covering everything about Sustainable Crochet and how to implement it into your own crafting starting today!

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern is for PERSONAL USE ONLY. This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, resold, distributed, published, altered, translated, posted or shared without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer using this verbiage, “This pattern was designed by Lindsey Roe and Off the Beaten Hook.” Thank you for your respectfulness!

This post contains affiliate links for materials I use and love. If you purchase something using one of these links I may earn a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my small business which allows me to provide you with free crochet patterns. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support!

Your Guide to Eco-Friendly and Sustainable Crochet Image Heart Yarn

Materials you will need for the Rabbit free crochet pattern:

Yarn:

Other Materials & Tools:

  • Crochet Hook: size 2.75 mm
  • Safety Eyes: size 6 mm (x2)
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Stitch Markers
  • Scissors
  • Stuffing

Abbreviations used in the Rabbit free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
hk – hook
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
fsc – foundation single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times
[…] – number of stitches in row/round

The Pattern

EARS – make 2:

NOTES:

  • Refer to the video tutorial for help with embroidering and attaching the ears
  • The ears are worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round
  • You will crochet the ears, flatten them, and then embroider the pink inside

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 [9]

Rnd 3: sc around [9]

Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) x3 [12]

Rnd 5: sc around [12]

Rnd 6: (sc 3, inc) x 3 [15]

Rnd 7: sc around [15]

Rnd 8: (sc 4, inc) x3 [18]

Rnd 9: sc around [18]

Rnd 10: (sc 5, inc) x 3 [21]

Rnd 11-22: sc around [21]

Rnd 23: (sc 5, dec) x3 [18]

Rnd 24: (sc 4, dec) x3 [15]

Embroider and prepare the ears:

Using a tapestry needle and the pink yarn, embroider the pink inside the ears. Flatten and pinch the ears and sew them closed across the bottom. The embroidery and sewing of the ears is included in the video tutorial as well!

HEAD:

NOTE: The head is worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round.

Rnd 1: st 6 sc in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: sc around [18]

Rnd 5: (sc 2, inc) x6 [24]

Rnd 6: sc around [24]

Rnd 7: (sc 3, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 8: sc around [30]

Rnd 9: (sc 4, inc) x6 [36]

Rnd 10: sc around [36]

Rnd 11: (sc 5, inc) x6 [42]

Rnd 12: sc around [42

Rnd 13: (sc 6, inc) x6 [48]

Rnd 14: sc around [48]

Rnd 15: (sc 7, inc) x6 [54]

Rnd 16: sc around [54]

Rnd 17-22: sc around [54]

ADD FACIAL FEATURES:

I demonstrate embroidering the nose, inserting the eyes and sewing on the ears in the video tutorial if you’d like some help with this!

NOSE: Using a tapestry needle and the pink yarn, embroider the nose by inserting the needle from inside to outside through the magic circle and back to the inside between rounds 3 and 4, using as your guide for the shape.

EYES: Insert safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, spaced by 20 stitches over the top of the nose.

EARS: Sew on the ears over rounds 21-24, spaced by about 6 stitches.

Continue with the head…

Rnd 23: (sc 7, dec) x6 [48]

Rnd 24: (sc 6, dec) x6 [42]

Rnd 25: (sc 5, dec) x6 [36]

Stuff head.

Rnd 26: (sc 4, dec) x6 [30]

Rnd 27: (sc 3, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 28: (sc 2, dec) x6 [18]

Rnd 29: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Stuff one last time.

Rnd 30: dec around [6]

Sl st in the next st and snip, leaving a long tail. Pull the tail through the final 2 loops. Using the yarn end and a tapestry needle, thread the yarn through the front loop only of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring the yarn to the inside and back out one of the side walls. Snip cleanly with the surface.

BODY:

NOTE:

  • Refer to the video tutorial for a demonstration on how to attach the collar to the neck prior to continuing on with the body beyond Rnd 2.
  • The body is worked in continuous rounds from the neck down – do not join after each round

Begin by chaining 30, slip knot to the first ch to close the circle.

Rnd 1: sc around [30]

Rnd 2: (sc 4, inc) x6 [36]

Sew the bunny neck to the underside of the head, centered over rounds 10-20:

Rnd 3-4: sc around [36]

Rnd 5: (sc 5, inc) x6 [42]

Rnd 6-7: sc around [42]

Rnd 8: (sc 6, inc) x6 [48]

Rnd 9-10: sc around[48]

Rnd 11: (sc 7, inc) x6 [54]

Rnd 12-14: sc around [54]

Rnd 15: (sc 8, inc) x6 [60]

Rnd 16-27: sc around [60]

Rnd 28: (sc 8, dec) x6 [54]

Rnd 29: sc around [54]

Rnd 30: (sc 7, dec) x6 [48]

Rnd 31: sc around [48]

Rnd 32: (sc 6, dec) x6 [42]

Rnd 33-34: sc around [42]

Split round 34 for the legs: There will be 16 st for each leg and 10 st for the gap in between – 5 from the front and 5 from the back.

It should be close already, but give or take a few stitches to position your hook at the back of the rabbit at the stitch just before the gap in the legs.

LEGS:

You now have your hook positioned for closing the gap between the legs. Holding the front and back together, sl st closed with 5 sl st. Then, Continue straight away to the first leg…

Rnd 35-37: sc around [16]

Rnd 38: (sc 2, dec) x4 [12]

Rnd 39-40: sc around [12]

Rnd 41: (sc, dec) x4 [8]

Sl st in the next st and snip, leaving a long tail. Pull the tail through the final 2 loops. Using the yarn end and a tapestry needle, thread the yarn through the front loop only of the remaining 8 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring the yarn to the inside and back out one of the side walls. Snip cleanly with the surface. Then, slip knot onto your hk and rejoin yarn on the inner back side of the second leg and repeat Rnd 35-41 for leg #2.

ARMS – make 2:

NOTE: The arms are worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round

Rnd 1: st 4 sc in a magic circle [4]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [8]

Rnd 3-22: sc around [8]

Fasten off and sew closed. (I don’t stuff the arms because I like them to be flexible, but feel free to stuff!) Sew the arms to the sides of the body at Rnd 2.

TAIL:

Rnd 1: st 6 sc in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-5: sc around [12]

Sl st to fasten and snip, leaving a long tail for sewing on. Stuff the tail and sew onto the bunny’s bum over rounds 27-31.

TROUSERS:

NOTES:

  • The trousers are worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round (except Rnd 1)
  • The chain 7 in Rnd 13 creates a hole where the tail pokes through. At this point, try the trousers on to be sure the hole is spaced appropriately compared to where you sewed the tail on. If needed, adjust the row where you make the chain 7 to fit properly.

Rnd 1: fsc 54. Join into a ring with a sl st, ch 1 [54]

Rnd 2: sc around [54]

Rnd 3: (sc 8, inc) x6 [60]

Rnd 4-11: sc around [60]

Rnd 12: (sc 8, dec) x6 [54]

Rnd 13: ch 7, sk 7, sc around [47 + 7 ch]

Rnd 14-15: sc around [54]

Rnd 16: (sc 7, dec) x6 [48]

Rnd 17-19: sc around [48]

Split Rnd 19 for the legs: There will be 19 st for each leg and 10 st for the gap in between – 5 from the front and 5 from the back.

It should be close already, but give or take a few stitches to position your hook at the back of the trousers at the stitch just before the gap in the legs. You now have your hook positioned for closing the gap between the legs. Holding the front and back together, sl st closed with 5 sl st. Fasten off and weave in end.

Make 2 suspenders: Chain 38 and tie onto trousers on the back. Before tying on, be sure your suspenders fit nice and snug. Add or remove chains as needed. Cross over each other, then bring over the shoulders and then tie onto front of trousers. Weave in ends.

SCARF:

Row 1: fsc 115 [115]

Fasten off and weave in ends. Add fringe by cutting 6 lengths of yarn, about 5 inches each (3 for each side). Collect 3 yarns together and fold in half. Insert your hook at the end of the scarf and pull through the 3 strands altogether, about halfway down their length. Tuck the ends through the loop you just pulled through and pull to fasten. Repeat on other side.

CARROT:

Carrot Stem:

NOTES:

  • The stem and leaves are worked by making a long chain and working your way back down the chain – I recommend crocheting into the back bump of the chain as it’s look and feel are more tight and clean
  • Use the Stylecraft Naturals Sea Green for the stem

Row 1: ch 30, sc in the 2nd ch from the hk, and in the next 7 ch, sl st in next 2 ch, (ch 9, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 7 ch, sl st in the next 2 ch along the stem) x3 for a total of 4 leaves. Sl st all the way back down the stem to the start of your chain.

Row 2: repeat row 1, except make a ch of 25 (rather than 30)

Row 3: repeat row 1, except make a ch of 20 (rather than 30)

Fasten off, leaving a tail of 4 inches.

Carrot:

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle – when you close the circle, don’t pull it all the way tight yet because you’ll want a bit of a hole to pull the yarn tails for the stem through [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Pull the stem yarn tails through the hole of the magic circle. Tighten the magic circle firmly. Grasping the magic circle tail and both of the tails of the stem, tie a knot as closely to the magic circle as possible. Knot it again.

Rnd 3-10: sc in each st around [12]

Rnd 11: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x3 [9]

Rnd 12-19: sc in each st around [9]

Rnd 20: (sc in next st, dec in next st) x3 [6]

Rnd 21-28: sc in each st around [6]

Rnd 29: dec around [3]

Pull yarn through last two loops and snip, leaving a 4 inch tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of the remaining 3 stitches. Fasten off. Snip, leaving 2 inches. Fray yarn end for root.

ADD LATERAL ROOT SCARS: Using a tapestry needle and a length of embroidery thread or a DK weight yarn split into two (4 strands each), weave your need into the carrot, towards the top and out the opposite side, then thread the needle back into the carrot, 2 stitches to the right or left. Continue this randomly several times over the carrot – about 10 – adding little bits of realistic root scars all around the outer skin. Pull gently with each one, so the root scars create little dimples, causing the carrot to become a bit bumpy all around.

Crochet Rainbow Carrot Main Image in Burlap Sack

Well done! I hope you had fun making this rabbit free crochet pattern. I would love to see your completed bunny rabbits! Please post pictures on instagram and tag me @offthebeatenhook and use #offthebeatenhook. Cheers!

WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO DO NOW? PIN this pattern for later, or check out more amigurumi patterns?

PIN FOR LATER:

HERE ARE SOME MORE FREE AMIGURUMI PATTERNS YOU MIGHT LIKE:

Tooth Fairy Pillow Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

Tooth Fairy Pillow Free Crochet Pattern

Losing teeth can be scary! Help your kiddo feel comforted AND add a little fun with this tooth fairy pillow free crochet pattern. With a functional crossbody satchel, this little fairy will trade a tooth for a treat. Just set near your little one’s pillow at night with their tooth in the satchel and swap the tooth for a treat for your little one to find in the morning! The satchel is removable. Made with 100% organic cotton, this tooth fairy is not only super soft and adorable, it is also sustainable and eco-friendly!

Make the pattern now or PIN it for later here!

Tooth Fairy Pillow Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin 1

A few months ago my son was getting his teeth cleaned when our dentist advised me that he will probably start losing teeth this year! I thought I would try to help ease the discomfort by designing this Tooth Fairy Pillow Free Crochet Pattern. I hope this one will be something that both my son and daughter will enjoy using. Maybe it’ll even get passed down to their kids one day!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the 12-page PDF printable, ad-free pattern of the Tooth Fairy Pillow on my Etsy shop here.

Tooth Fairy Pillow Free Crochet Pattern Pattern Preview Graphic

Tooth Fairy Pillow Free Crochet Pattern Notes & Tips:

This tooth fairy pillow free crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! If you’re more of a visual learner, the printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with over 40 photo tutorials to help you with each step along the way.

Size & Gauge:

Size: the Tooth Fairy will end up being 10″ tall x 11″ wide (inches)

Gauge: 4”x4” of single crochet = 20 stitches x 22 rows. Ultimately with toys, gauge doesn’t matter. It won’t have to fit someone’s body or a specific space. My patterns will include the size of the finished toy based on the yarn and hook I use. But if you want it smaller or bigger, just use a bigger yarn and hook! Just remember, when crocheting toys, crochet tightly and choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn size recommends in order to avoid holes between each stitch where the stuffing will show through.

Top 10 under $10 Sustainable Yarns Image Stylecraft naturals Organic Cotton DK Yarn

Yarn & Stuffing:

Yarn: Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I use 100% organic cotton yarn because I make these toys for my kids and need them to be functional. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and relatively inflexible so the toys don’t stretch and sag – even after being thrown across the house, down the stairs and adventured through every part of the garden!

It’s very important for me to use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn so I feel good about the impact I’m making on the environment with my craft. This is why I choose organic cotton versus conventional cotton.

Stuffing: Stuff more than you think you should. Not enough for the stitches to stretch and show holes, but enough to make the toy stiff and able to withstand the rough trials of toy life. The filling will compress a bit over time. I encourage you to use an alternative to poly-fill (unless it’s recycled!). Try using leftover yarn scraps and snippets or old non-donate-able clothes and materials cut into strips.

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern is for PERSONAL USE ONLY. This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, resold, distributed, published, altered, translated, posted or shared without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer using this verbiage, “This pattern was designed by Lindsey Roe and Off the Beaten Hook.” Thank you for your respectfulness!

This post contains affiliate links for materials I use and love. If you purchase something using one of these links I may earn a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my small business which allows me to provide you with free crochet patterns. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support!

Your Guide to Eco-Friendly and Sustainable Crochet Image Heart Yarn

Materials you will need:

Other than the Rico Essentials Organic Cotton Aran used for the tooth (which is the PERFECT color for a tooth by the way), I was able to shop my own yarn stash for the tooth fairy’s accessories – all of which were 100% cotton DK. Hopefully you can too because this is a great opportunity to use up some of the leftover bits you have. But if not, the colors above will be the perfect match!

  • RICO ESSENTIALS ORGANIC COTTON ARAN / 100% Organic Cotton | Weight 4/Aran
    • Colors & Number of balls:
  • RICO ESSENTIALS ORGANIC COTTON DK / 100% Organic Cotton | Weight 3/Light Worsted
    • NOUGAT – cross body pouch
    • LILAC – gloves & skirt waistband
    • MUSTARD – wings & skirt hem
    • RED – small leaves
  • STYLECRAFT NATURALS ORGANIC COTTON DK / 100% Organic Cotton | Weight 3/Light Worsted
  • Hook: 4.00 mm & 3.00 mm
  • Safety Eyes: 12 mm
  • Black embroidery thread (or black DK weight yarn split in half – about 4 strands)
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Stitch Markers
  • Scissors
  • Stuffing
  • Optional: wooden buttons for crossbody bag tie

Abbreviations used in the Tooth Fairy Pillow free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
hk – hook
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
fsc – foundation single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
tr – treble crochet
4-DcBo – double crochet bobble
inc – increase
dec – decrease
(…) x – repeat indicated number of times
[…] – number of stitches in row/round

Tooth Fairy Pillow Free Crochet Pattern Library Resource Graphic

The Pattern

NOTES:

  • The tooth is worked in continuous rounds from the top down – do not join after each round.
  • You will make two “cups” which will be joined to create the top bumps. Then, you will crochet around them and continuously until you split for the roots which are also crocheted in continuous rounds.
  • Use size 4.00mm hook for the tooth

TOOTH:

CUPS – make 2

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) x6 [42]

Rnd 8: (sc 6, inc) x6 [48]

Rnd 9-13: sc around [48]

Fasten off the first cup. Do not fasten off the second one as you will continue with your working yarn to join the cups and continue on with the rest of the tooth.

JOIN CUPS: Hold the two cups side by side and join by making 6 slip stitches through Rnd 13 of both pieces to join

Begin straight away where you left off with your last sl st…

Rnd 14-22 sc around [84]

Rnd 23: (sc 12, dec) x6 [78]

Rnd 24: sc around [78]

Rnd 25: (sc 11, dec) x6 [72]

Rnd 26-27: sc around [72]

Rnd 28: (sc 10, dec) x6 [66]

Rnd 29-30: sc around [66]

Rnd 31: (sc 9, dec) x6 [60]

Rnd 32-34: sc around [60]

Insert safety eyes between rounds 24 and 25, spaced by 20 stitches. Using a tapestry needle, embroider on eyelashes. Stuff tooth.

Crochet Tooth Up Close

ROOTS:

Split your work for the roots:

Each root will have 24 st, and then there will be 12 stitches (6 from front and 6 from back) that will be crocheted closed for the gap between the roots. Use stitch markers to mark these stitches as described.

Give or take a few stitches to be sure your hook is positioned in the stitch just before what’s about to become the gap between the roots. Hold the two sides of the tooth closed – 6 stitches against 6 stitches and slip stitch the two sides together (12 stitches – 6 from front and 6 from back). Then continue straight away into round 35 without fastening.

Rnd 35-46: sc in each st around [24] STUFF

  • TIPS:
    • A) I suggest placing a stitch marker on your first st of Rnd 35 so you can easily find it as you come back around.
    • B) the start of rnd 36 will connect the front to the back, closing the rounds for the first root.

Rnd 47: (sc 2, dec) x6 [18]

Rnd 48-49: sc around [18]

Rnd 50: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Rnd 51-52: sc around [12] STUFF

Rnd 53: dec around [6]

Snip leaving a long tail and pull through final two loops. Using a tapestry needle and the yarn tail, weave through the front loops of the final 6 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring to the inside and back out a side wall. Snip cleanly with the surface.

Rejoin yarn on the other side of the 6-slip stitch-gap, and repeat Rounds 35-53 for second root. Fasten off and close as directed for first root above.

Crochet Tooth One Root COmplete

SKIRT:

NOTES:

  • The skirt is worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round
  • Use size 3.00mm hook for the skirt

Start with the purple yarn.

Rnd 1: fsc 70 [70]

Rnd 2: sc around [70]

Switch to green yarn.

Rnd 3: make 3 dc in each st around [210]

Rnd 4: dc around [210]

Switch to gold yarn.

Rnd 5: sc around [210]

Fasten off and weave in end. Put skirt on tooth. Using a tapestry needle and a VERY long strand of purple yarn, weave the tapestry needle from front to back in between the first row (purple) of the skirt, several times to secure the skirt to the tooth.

Crochet Tooth with Skirt

CROSSBODY SATCHEL:

Use the brown yarn & 3.00mm hook

Rnd 1: st 6 hdc in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: hdc inc around [12]

Rnd 3: (hdc, hdc inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4-7: hdc around [18]

Rnd 8: dc around [18]

Fasten off and weave in end.

Make drawstring: chain 150. Knot off ends. Weave in and out of round 8 (dc round) and cinch to close. If you’re using beads for the ends of the drawstring, put those on now.

Crochet satchel
Crochet Tooth Up close of arm
Crochet Tooth fairy pillow up close of crossbody satchel

ARMS (make 2):

NOTES:

  • The arms are worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round
  • Use size 3.00mm crochet hook
  • You will start with the purple yarn for the gloves and switch to the tooth color to complete the arms

Start with purple yarn.

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-5: sc around [12]

Rnd 6: 4-DcBo in next st, sc in next 11 st [12]

Rnd 7-14: sc around [12]

Rnd 15: sl st around [12]

Complete the glove and color change as follows: Remove your hook from the loop and insert it under the next st from back to front. Snatch your loop and pull it to the back, then switch to white by yarning over with white and pulling it through the purple loop.

Pull on the ends to tighten. After you make a few stitches of Rnd 16, tie those purple and white ends together and stuff them inside. For round 16, you will work in the BLO of the purple from Rnd 14, found just behind the Rnd 15 of slip stitches.

Rnd 16: BLO sc around [12]

Rnd 17-23: sc around [12]

Sl st to fasten off and pull through loop, leaving a long tail for sewing on. Stuff very lightly and sew arms to sides of body over round 25, spaced about 7 stitches away from the eye.

Crochet Tooth with separate arms

WINGS – LARGE (make 2):

NOTES:

  • The wings are made by crocheting turning rows of half double crochet in the BACK LOOP ONLY
  • You will work into a magic circle – do not close the magic circle until all the rows are complete as you will need to be making slip stitches into the magic circle
  • Chain 1 and turn at the end of every row
  • Use the gold yarn

Leaving a long starting tail, begin by making a magic circle and slip knot onto your hook – do not close the magic circle. Then, chain 23.

Row 1: hdc in the 2nd back bump ch from hk and in each back bump ch thereafter [22]

Row 2: BLO hdc across, sl st into the magic circle, ch 1, turn [22]

Row 3: BLO hdc in next 19 st, leave final 3 st unworked [19]

Row 4: repeat row 2 [19]

Row 5: BLO hdc in next 16 st, leave final 3 st unworked [16]

Row 6: repeat row 2 [16]

Row 7: BLO hdc in next 13 st, leave final 3 st unworked [13]

Row 8: repeat row 2 [13]

Row 9: BLO hdc in next 10 st, leave final 3 st unworked [10]

Fasten off and weave in end. Pull magic circle tightly to close and cinch the wing.

WINGS – SMALL (make 2):

NOTES:

  • Refer to the notes and for “wings: large” as the small wings are made using the same method, just using shorter rows
  • Use the light green yarn

Leaving a long starting tail, begin by making a magic circle and slip knot onto your hook – do not close the magic circle. Then, chain 20.

Row 1: hdc in 2nd back bump ch from hk and in each back bump ch thereafter [19]

Row 2: BLO hdc across, sl st into the magic circle, ch 1, turn [19]

Row 3: BLO hdc in next 16 st, leave final 3 st unworked [16]

Row 4: repeat row 2 [16]

Row 5: BLO hdc in next 13 st, leave final 3 st unworked [13]

Row 6: repeat row 2 [13]

Row 7: BLO hdc in next 10 st, leave final 3 st unworked [10]

Fasten off and weave in end. Pull magic circle tightly to close.

Crochet Wings

ASSEMBLE AND ATTACH THE WINGS TO YOUR TOOTH FAIRY PILLOW:

  • Arrange the wings with the large on top and the small beneath – SEE PHOTO
  • Lay the small wings over top the large wings so that they have one row overlapping and are angled as shown in the photo –
  • Using the tail end of the small wing, sew the wings together (the stitches that show will be covered over with a leaf)
  • Sew wings to the back of the tooth over rounds 10-15 using the photos as a guide for placement
Crochet Tooth Fairy Pillow back side image

LEAVES:

NOTES:

  • The leaves are worked by making a chain and crocheting around both sides of it
  • You will make 10 leaves – 5 large and 3 small will be used for the leaf flower and 2 will be used as part of the wings on the back – to cover over the stitches that show when sewing the wings together

LARGE LEAVESmake 7 in your choice of color (I made 3 using the dark green yarn, 2 using the light green yarn and 2 using the peach yarn which were leftovers I had on hand):

Begin by chaining 12.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hk, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, tr in next 3 ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch. Continue onto the other side of the chain, and repeat the pattern for the 2nd side of the leaf.

Sl st to next st and fasten off. Leave a long tail on ONE of the leaves for sewing them all together. On the other leaves, weave in ends.

SMALL LEAVESmake 3, using the red yarn:

Begin by chaining 8.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hk, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch. Continue onto the other side of the chain, and repeat the pattern for the 2nd side of the leaf.

Sl st to next st and fasten off. Leave a long tail on ONE of the leaves for sewing them to the leaf flower. On the other leaves, weave in ends.

Crochet leaf Flower arrangement
Crochet Tooth Fairy up close of leaf flower for head

LEAF FLOWER ASSEMBLY:

  • Arrange 5 of the large leaves in a flower formation – SEE PHOTO
  • Using the long tail from one of the leaves, sew them together
  • Arrange the 3 small leaves on top of the large flower and sew them on
  • Sew the leaf flower onto the tooth at round 16, centered on the tooth “cup”
  • Sew the additional 2 large flowers over the middle of the wings on the back to cover any stitches showing on the wings

Well done! I hope you and your little one will enjoy this tooth fairy pillow so much.

I would love to see your completed pillows!. Please post pictures on instagram @offthebeatenhook and use #offthebeatenhook. Cheers!

PIN FOR LATER!

Tooth Fairy Pillow Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin 2
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Did you love this Tooth Fairy Pillow free crochet pattern? Want more free amigurumi crochet patterns? Check these out!

Chevron Blanket Free Crochet Pattern Image of Blanket

Chevron Blanket Free Crochet Pattern – Jabble Baby Blanket

I originally designed this chevron blanket as a baby blanket because I was itching to make something with this vibrant color combo (I share more about that story in the video tutorial)! But the beautiful thing about a chevron blanket is that it is highly versatile. Add a chevron or two and several more rows and you’re able to adjust the size just as you see fit – and I show you just how to do that in this crochet blanket pattern. I’m so excited to share with you this Jabble Chevron Blanket free crochet pattern!

Dive into it now, or Pin it for later!

Chevron Blanket Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Image 2

The name of this chevron blanket, “Jabble”, is inspired by the Scottish word which is defined as, “Agitated movement of water; a splashing or dashing in small waves or ripples; where currents meet, the water is said to be “jabbly”. Since a chevron is a wave shape, I found the name to be quite fitting. Also, it’s a fun word to say. I dare you to say it out loud right now…

JABBLE. Fun, don’t you think?

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the 6-page PDF printable, ad-free pattern of the Jabble Chevron Blanket on my Etsy shop here.

Crochet Blanket printable pattern preview image

Chevron Blanket Free Crochet Pattern Notes & Tips:

This crochet chevron blanket pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! The printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with LOTS of in-the-making photos for each step of the way as well.

I’ve also filmed a video tutorial for the Jabble Chevron Blanket which can be found further down in this post and on YouTube! So, if you’re more of a visual learner or just need some added help as you’re following the written pattern, definitely check out the video!

Size & Gauge:

Size: Before you begin, take a look at the size chart for this blanket below. It will help you get started off on the right foot! The pattern is written in 5 different standard blanket sizes. The size chart will show you how many chains to start off with and how many rows to make to accomplish the size you’re looking for.

If you want to go off the beaten path and make your own size, the provided gauge along with the size chart will give you an idea of where to start.

This blanket pattern is written as follows: Infant(Baby, Toddler, Lap, Throw) following in parenthesis. The blanket in the photos is the baby blanket size and measures 36″ x 29″.

Gauge: 4”x4” of half double crochet = 16 stitches x 8 rows.

Jabble Chevron Blanket size chart

Yarn:

Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I used cotton yarn for this pattern because I originally designed it as a baby blanket. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and hypoallergenic – making it perfectly baby-safe.

But you can choose any yarn that you’d like – just make sure you adjust the hook size to match!

It’s very important for me to use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn so I feel good about the impact I’m making on the environment with my craft.

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern is for PERSONAL USE ONLY. This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, resold, distributed, published, altered, translated, posted or shared without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer using this verbiage, “This pattern was designed by Lindsey Roe and Off the Beaten Hook. offthebeatenhook.com” Thank you for your respectfulness!

This post contains affiliate links for materials I use and love. If you purchase something using one of these links I may earn a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my small business which allows me to provide you with free crochet patterns. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support!

Your Guide to Eco-Friendly and Sustainable Crochet Image Heart Yarn

Materials you will need:

Abbreviations used in the Chevron Blanket free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
hk – hook
hdc – half double crochet
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 together (decrease)
hdc3tog – half double crochet 3 together (decrease)
inc – increase
dec – decrease
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times
[…] – number of stitches in row/round

Chevron Blanket Free Crochet Pattern Title Resource Library Graphic Image

The Pattern

NOTES:

  • Each “V” shape is called a chevron
  • The chevron repeat is 33 + 3. This means you’ll chain 33 for each chevron + 3 additional chains. For example, for 2 chevrons, you’ll chain 66 + 3 for a total of 69 chains. For 3 chevrons, you’ll chain 99 + 3 for a total of 102 chains. Refer to the size chart above for standard sizes and measurements to determine the size of blanket you want to make.
  • This pattern follows the color changes based on how I designed the blanket. The solids are made up of 2 rows and each of the thicker sections of “splash – vibrant bloom” are 6 rows each.
  • After the foundation row, all rows are crocheted into the back loop only (BLO) which creates the ribbed texture.
  • Chain 1 and turn at the end of every row. Turning chain does not count as a stitch.

Begin by chaining 102(135, 168, 201, 234)

Row 1: sk 1st ch from hook, hdc2tog, hdc 15, (3 hdc in next st, hdc 15, hdc3tog, hdc 14) x2(3, 4, 5, 6), 3 hdc in next st, hdc 15, hdc2tog [99](132, 165, 198, 231)

Row 2: BLO hdc2tog, hdc 15, (3 hdc in next st, hdc 15, hdc3tog, hdc 14) x2(3, 4, 5, 6), 3 hdc in next st, hdc 15, hdc2tog [99](132, 165, 198, 231)

Row 3-56(70, 91, 105, 126): repeat row 2, changing colors as indicated

Crochet chevron blanket in the making

COLOR CHANGES:

Row 1-6: Splash

Row 7-8: Natural

Row 9-14: Splash

Row 15-16: Turquoise

Row 17-22: Splash

Row 23-24: Rose Pink

Row 25-30: Splash

Row 31-32: Natural

Row 33-38: Splash

Row 39-40: Turquoise

Row 41-46: Splash

Row 47-48: Rose Pink

Row 49-54: Splash

Repeat until desired size is complete, ending with Splash.

Crochet blanket hanging over crib

POM POMS:

NOTE: For help with making pom-poms, refer to the video tutorial in the Resource Library.

Make pom poms for the blanket. Each peak of the blanket should have one pom-pom. Alternate colors as desired or as pictured below.

Chevron Blanket Free Crochet Pattern Blanket in Crib with Octopus

FINISH & CLEAN-UP:

Tie off color changes and weave in ends.

JABBLE CHEVRON BLANKET FREE CROCHET PATTERN VIDEO TUTORIAL:

I would love to see your completed chevron blankets! Please post pictures on instagram and tag me @offthebeatenhook and use #offthebeatenhook. Cheers!

PIN FOR LATER

Chevron Blanket Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin Image 3
Chevron Blanket Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Image 1

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Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free crochet pattern featured image

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern

I named this Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern after the color of yarn I used. Am I allowed to do that? It just fit too perfectly. And since the majestic Mt Rainier is just on the other side of this beautiful Washington State from me, I just went with it. Let me know if I’m going to get in trouble and I’ll change it.

The Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern is written for sizes XS through 5XL and is easily adjusted if you want it more cropped, less cropped, longer sleeves, shorter sleeves, totally short sleeves, whatever you fancy. Super easy, super approachable. Absolutely ready for the beginner too!

Jump right in, or save it for later by pinning it here.

Have fun!

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Image

My vision for this sweater had the following requirements:

  1. No seaming
  2. No turning rounds – only continuous rounds
  3. Puffed sleeves
  4. Slightly cropped

NAILED IT!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the full, printable, ad-free pattern of the Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater with lots of helpful pictures and additional tips on my Etsy shop here!

The most beautiful thing about a yoke sweater is how versatile and easy it is to customize it to your perfect size because you can try it on as you go! I highly encourage you to do that with this pattern. This sweater is designed with several inches of positive ease which means it’s roomy and bubbly. With this sweater you can choose how roomy and bubbly you want it to be as you go along! I give you tips in the pattern at the right times to try on and see how it’s fitting.

The other great thing about this sweater is that it is crocheted in CONTINUOUS rounds which means you do NOT join rounds as you complete them… you just keep on going! There is absolutely no seaming on this sweater. You crochet it from the neck down to the hemline and then go back and crochet the sleeves directly on, all the way down to the cuffs. Again, feel free to customize the length of the sleeves as you go along, trying it on now and again to make it just how you envision it!

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern Image 9

Materials you will need:

  • Lion Brand Yarns Heartland Tweed
    • Mt Rainier Tweed – x6(6, 7, 7, 8)(8, 9, 9, 9) 1200(1200, 1400, 1400, 1600)(1600, 1800, 1800, 1800) yards
  • Crochet Hook Size: 6.00 mm / US J
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Stitch Markers
  • Scissors
  • Measuring Tape

Abbreviations used in the Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
st mk – stitch marker
sl st – slip stitch
hk – hook
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
BLO – back loop only
hdc inc – half double crochet increase
hdc dec – half double crochet decrease
[…] – number of stitches in row/round
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern is for PERSONAL USE ONLY. This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, resold, distributed, published, altered, translated, posted or shared without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer using this verbiage, “This pattern was designed by Lindsey Roe and Off the Beaten Hook. http://www.offthebeatenhook.com” Thank you for your respectfulness!

This post contains affiliate links for materials I use and love. If you purchase something using one of these links I may earn a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my small business which allows me to provide you with free crochet patterns. Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support!

Slow Yarn Movement Sustainable Crochet Image take your time tiles

Gauge:

4”x4” = 14 stitches x 10 rows of HDC

I encourage you to make a square swatch to be sure your gauge is correct. It’s also a good idea to measure now and again and try on the sweater as you go along. This will ensure it will fit right when it’s done!

Sizing:

This pattern is written in size XS with size (S, M, L, XL)(2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) following in parenthesis. The size can be easily modified by taking your measurements and adjusting the number of chains or rows. Use this sizing grid or the gauge above to determine your custom measurements. The model pictured is wearing size XS with a bust of 33″.

Measurements in inches: BUST / LENGTH (shoulder to hem) / SLEEVE LENGTH (armpit to cuff) / SLEEVE CIRCUMFERENCE / NECK OPENING

XS: 37″ / 20″ / 16″ / 13.5″ / 8″
S: 41″ / 21″ / 16″ / 13.5″ / 8″
M: 45″ / 23″ / 16.75″ / 14.5″ / 8″
L: 49″ / 23″ / 16.75″ / 14.5″ / 9.5″
XL: 53″ / 24″ / 17.5″ / 15.5″ / 9.5″
2XL: 57″ / 25″ / 17.5″ / 15.5″ / 9.5″
3XL: 61″ / 25″ / 18.25″ / 16.5″ / 11″
4XL: 65″ / 26″ / 18.25″ / 16.5″ / 11″
5XL: 69″ / 27″ / 19″ / 17″ / 11″

I also include a detailed sizing chart for the Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern in the ad-free and fully printable 10-page PDF pattern here.

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern Image 10

The Pattern

COLLAR:

  • The ribbed collar is worked in rows, chaining 1 and turning at the end of each row
  • There is no right or wrong side
  • The ribbing is made by crocheting in the back loop only (BLO)

Start by chaining 7

Row 1-48(48, 48, 52, 52)(52, 56, 56, 56): BLO sc in 2nd ch from hk and next 5 ch’s [6]

To close circular collar, sl st in 1st st of row 1, and ch 1. Make sure collar is not twisted, then, holding the first and last row together, sl st through both loops of last row to both loops of first row, along each of the 6 stitches of the rows. Do not fasten as you will continue straight away with the body of the sweater.

YOKE:

NOTES:

  • The yoke is worked in continuous rounds – do not turn at the end of each round
  • Multiple increases will be made as you work your way around. ALWAYS MARK THE FIRST STITCH OF EACH INCREASE WITH A STITCH MARKER. Each time you come around, an increase will be made where the stitch marker is. SEE PHOTO With each increase, always move the stitch marker to the first stitch made for each increase. This way, you will not have to count your stitches in each round if you don’t want to!
  • EXTRA IMPORTANT: Before proceeding, slip the collar over your head and make sure you are happy with the size. If not, adjust up or down a size and then carry on.
  • EXTRA IMPORTANT REMINDER: Although you may have already decided what size you’re making, all our beautiful body types are so different. Therefore, I highly encourage you to try the sweater on as you go and stop the yoke when you can comfortably pinch the front and back together under the armpit with 2-3 inches of ease, then continue as that size and easily adjust the length as desired during the “body” section.

Starting straight away from where you left off on the collar, ch 2 (counts as your first hdc)

Rnd 1: hdc in each st around [48](48, 48, 52, 52)(52, 56, 56, 56)

Rnd 2: (hdc 3, hdc inc) around [60](60, 60, 65, 65)(65, 70, 70, 70)

Rnd 3: (hdc 4, hdc inc) around [72](72, 72, 78, 78)(78, 84, 84, 84)

Rnd 4: (hdc 5, hdc inc) around [84](84, 84, 91, 91)(91, 98, 98, 98)

Rnd 5: (hdc 6, hdc inc) around [96](96, 96, 104, 104)(104, 112, 112, 112)

Rnd 6: (hdc 7, hdc inc) around [108](108, 108, 117, 117)(117, 126, 126, 126)

Rnd 7: (hdc 8, hdc inc) around [120](120, 120, 130, 130)(130, 140, 140, 140)

Rnd 8: (hdc 9, hdc inc) around [132](132, 132, 143, 143)(143, 154, 154, 154)

Rnd 9: hdc around [st count as rnd 8]

Rnd 10: (hdc 10, hdc inc) around [144](144, 144, 156, 156)(156, 168, 168, 168)

Rnd 11: hdc around [st count as rnd 10]

Rnd 12: (hdc 11, hdc inc) around [156](156, 156, 169, 169)(169, 182, 182, 182)

Rnd 13: hdc around [st count as rnd 12]

Rnd 14: (hdc 12, hdc inc) around [168](168, 168, 182, 182)(182, 196, 196, 196)

Rnd 15: hdc around [st count as rnd 14]

Rnd 16: (hdc 13, hdc inc) around [180](180, 180, 195, 195)(195, 210, 210, 210)

Rnd 17: hdc around [st count as rnd 16]

Rnd 18: (hdc 14, hdc inc) around [192](192, 192, 208, 208)(208, 224, 224, 224)

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern Image 9

Rnd 19: hdc around [st count as rnd 18]

Rnd 20: (hdc 15, hdc inc) around [204](204, 204, 221, 221)(221, 238, 238, 238)

Rnd 21: hdc around [st count as rnd 20]

Rnd 22: (hdc 16, hdc inc) around [216](216, 216, 234, 234)(234, 252, 252, 252)

Rnd 23: hdc around [st count as rnd 22] PHOTOS 05 & 06

Rnd 24: (hdc 17, hdc inc) around [228](228, 228, 247, 247)(247, 266, 266, 266)

SIZE XS CONTINUE TO “SPLITTING FOR SLEEVES” SECTION

Rnd 25: hdc around [st count as rnd 24]

Rnd 26: (hdc 18, hdc inc) around [X](240, 240, 260, 260)(260, 280, 280, 280)

SIZE S CONTINUE TO “SPLITTING FOR SLEEVES” SECTION

Rnd 27: hdc around [st count as rnd 26]

Rnd 28: (hdc 19, hdc inc) around [X](X, 252, 273, 273)(273, 294, 294, 294)

Rnd 29: hdc around [st count as rnd 28]

Rnd 30: (hdc 20, hdc inc) around [X](X, 264, 286, 286)(286, 308, 308, 308)

SIZE M & L CONTINUE TO “SPLITTING FOR SLEEVES” SECTION

Rnd 31: hdc around [st count as rnd 30]

Rnd 32: (hdc 21, hdc inc) around [X](X, X, X, 299)(299, 322, 322, 322)

SIZE XL CONTINUE TO “SPLITTING FOR SLEEVES” SECTION

Rnd 33: hdc around [st count as rnd 32]

Rnd 34: (hdc 22, hdc inc) around [X](X, X, X, X)(312, 336, 336, 336)

SIZE 2XL & 3XL CONTINUE TO “SPLITTING FOR SLEEVES” SECTION

Rnd 35: hdc around [st count as rnd 34]

Rnd 36: (hdc 23, hdc inc) around [X](X, X, X, X)(X, X, 350, 350)

SIZE 4XL CONTINUE TO “SPLITTING FOR SLEEVES” SECTION

Rnd 37: hdc around [st count as rnd 36]

Rnd 38: (hdc 24, hdc inc) around [X](X, X, X, X)(X, X, X, 364)

SIZE 5XL CONTINUE TO “SPLITTING FOR SLEEVES” SECTION

SPLITTING FOR SLEEVES:

You will now split the yoke into the body and the sleeves. You will no longer increase in any stitches. However, because I like to play it safe, I used several small pieces of brightly colored yarn to mark where the stitch markers were in case I needed to back up and adjust the size.

Lay the yoke out flat. You will now count stitches to split for the sleeves. Make sure where you left off on the yoke is at the armpit of one of the sleeves. For each sleeve, count 48(48, 52, 52, 56)(56, 60, 60, 62) stitches around for each sleeve opening and mark with a stitch marker.

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern Image 7

BODY:

NOTES:

  • The body is worked in continuous rounds – there is no increasing from this point forward
  • There is no specific front or back side
  • Feel free to adjust the length of the body section if you want the sweater longer or more cropped by adding or removing rows. Keep in mind the hem will add 2” to the length.

Join the body at the armpits: pick up where you left off on the yoke which should now be located at one of the armpits, join the front to back where you placed your stitch marker for the sleeve opening, making a hdc. Continue around to the opposite armpit where you placed your stitch marker for the other sleeve opening and join front and back, making a hdc. Continue on…

Rnd 1-16: hdc around [132](144, 160, 182, 187)(200, 216, 230, 240)

Before you continue, try on the sweater and decide if you want to add or remove rows for the length. For the last several rows you will be decreasing, so now is your last chance to get the length just right! For rounds 17-22, take special note of the number of hdc between decreases for your size as they’re a bit wonky compared to each other. You’ll be decreasing during this section to taper the sweater prior to putting on the hem.

Rnd 17: {hdc dec, hdc in next 10(10, 14, 12, 15)(18, 16, 21, 18) st} around [121](132, 150, 169, 176)(190, 204, 220, 228)

Rnd 18: hdc in each st around [st count as rnd 17]

Rnd 19: {hdc dec, hdc in next 9(9, 13, 11, 14)(17, 15, 20, 19) st} around [110](120, 140, 156, 165)(180, 192, 210, 216)

Rnd 20: hdc in each st around [st count as rnd 19]

Rnd 21: {hdc dec, hdc in next 8(8, 12, 10, 13)(16, 14, 19, 18) st} around [99](108, 130, 143, 154)(170, 180, 200, 204)

Rnd 22: hdc in each st around [st count as rnd 21]

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern Image 6

HEM:

  • The hem is made in the same manner as the collar, except it is a few stitches taller
  • You will pick up right where you left off on the body, without fastening off

Start the hem by chaining 10

Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and next 8 st [9]

Row 2: sl st in next 2 st on hem from last round of body, ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to the bottom edge of the hem [9]

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to last round of body

Row 4+: repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around hem PHOTO 08, 09 & 10

Join first and last row of hem in same manner as joining collar. Fasten off. Weave in end.

SLEEVES:

  • The sleeves are made in continuous rounds – do not turn at the end of each round.
  • To adjust the length of the sleeve, add or remove rows prior to decreasing before the cuff is made

Rejoin yarn at the armpit of one of the arm holes. Secure with a slip stitch.

Rnd 1-40(40, 42, 42, 44)(44, 46, 46, 48): hdc in each st around [48](48, 52, 52, 56)(56, 60, 60, 62)

Rnd 41(41, 43, 43, 45)(45, 47, 47, 49): hdc dec around [24](24, 26, 26, 28)(28, 30, 30, 31)

Do not fasten off – you’ll continue straight away to finish the cuffs…

CUFFS:

  • The cuffs are constructed in the exact same way as the hem – crocheting it directly onto the last round of the sleeve

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hk and next 8 st, sl st in next 2 st on last rnd of sleeve, ch 1, turn [9]

Row 2: BLO sc in next 9 st, ch 1, turn [9]

Row 3: BLO sc in next 9 st, sl st in the next 2 st on last rnd of sleeve, ch 1, turn [9]

Row 4+: repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around cuff

Join first and last row of cuff in same manner as joining hem. Fasten off. Weave in end.

Congratulations! You’re about to slip into what might end up being your new favorite go-to sweater! I highly recommend steam blocking your sweater but it’s certainly not required. Because of the “bubbly” nature of this sweater, blocking goes a long way towards creating a nice drape to the fabric.

I would love to see your finished Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater free crochet pattern! Post a photo on Instagram and tag me @offthebeatenhook and use #offthebeatenhook. Thank you for crocheting with me!

Want more free crochet patterns? Check these out!

Minion Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

Minion Free Crochet Pattern

Who doesn’t love the Minions? They’re tiny, adorable and hilarious. The Despicable Me movies are a must-see if you haven’t already. My son Benjamin loves the Minions so I decided to make him one for Christmas this year. It’s my pleasure to get to share this Minion free crochet pattern with you as well!

Jump into the pattern now, or Pin it for later!

Minion Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin

This Minion free crochet pattern’s inspiration comes from Stuart Minion. Technically, Stuart’s hair lays down flat on his head (which you could definitely do with this guy too!), but I couldn’t resist giving him a fluffy little twit on top.

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the 9-page PDF printable, ad-free Minion pattern on my Etsy shop here.

Minion Free Crochet Pattern Pattern Preview

Minion Free Crochet Pattern Notes & Tips:

This Minion free crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! The printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with DOZENS of in-the-making photos for each step of the way as well.

Size & Gauge:

Size: This Minion will end up being 10″ tall.

Gauge: 4”x4” of single crochet = 14 stitches x 18 rows. Ultimately with toys, gauge doesn’t matter. It won’t have to fit someone’s body or a specific space. My patterns will include the size of the finished toy based on the yarn and hook I use. But if you want it smaller or bigger, just use a bigger yarn and hook! Just remember, when crocheting toys, crochet tightly and choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn size recommends in order to avoid holes between each stitch where the stuffing will show through.

Minion Free Crochet Pattern Up close of face

Yarn & Stuffing:

Yarn: Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I use 100% cotton yarn because I make these toys for my kids and need them to be functional. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and relatively inflexible so the toys don’t stretch and sag – even after being thrown across the house, down the stairs and adventured through every part of the garden!

It’s very important for me to use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn so I feel good about the impact I’m making on the environment with my craft. This is why I choose organic cotton versus conventional cotton. With this pattern, however, I shopped my stash because I have a bunch of yarn from years ago, before I started using only sustainable yarn. This pattern doesn’t take much yarn and I had all the colors I needed! Yay!

That said, in the materials list below I list the yarn I used for this pattern, even though I don’t normally recommend using conventional cotton.

Stuffing: Stuff more than you think you should. Not enough for the stitches to stretch and show holes, but enough to make the toy stiff and able to withstand the rough trials of toy life. The filling will compress a bit over time. I encourage you to use an alternative to poly-fill (unless it’s recycled!). Try using leftover yarn scraps and snippets or old non-donate-able clothes and materials cut into strips.

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern is for PERSONAL USE ONLY. This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, resold, distributed, published, altered, translated, posted or shared without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer using this verbiage, “This pattern was designed by Lindsey Roe and Off the Beaten Hook. http://www.offthebeatenhook.com” Thank you for your respectfulness!

Despicable Me and MINIONS are protected trade marks and copyright of Universal Studios. This pattern is my creative interpretation of those lovable characters, but the character is not my own invention.

Your Guide to Eco-Friendly and Sustainable Crochet Image Heart Yarn
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Materials you will need:

Abbreviations used in the Minion free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
hk – hook
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
fsc – foundation single crochet
BLO – back loop only
inc – increase
dec – decrease
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times
[…] – number of stitches in row/round

Minion Free Crochet Pattern Held with hand

The Pattern

EYE:

NOTE: The eye is worked in rounds – to minimize seeing the color changes, you will join and chain at the end of each round. Join with a slip st, and pull in the new color in with the chain.

Start with black yarn

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Switch to brown yarn

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Switch to white yarn

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) x6 [24]

Fasten off and snip leaving a long tail for sewing.

Crochet Minion Method Eye

GOGGLE & STRAP:

NOTE: The goggle and strap are are worked as separate pieces – each beginning with a chainless foundation single crochet. If needed, you can find a video tutorial of how to make a chainless foundation single crochet in the resource library.

GOGGLE:

Row 1: fsc 28, join ends into a ring

Row 2-5: sc around [28]

Fasten off and snip leaving a long tail for sewing on. Fold ring in half, curling it into a double sided ring. Row 3 will end up being the center/top.

STRAP:

Row 1: fsc 54, join ends into a ring

Row 2: sc around [54]

Wait to fasten off strap until you’ve made and stuffed the head to be sure it is long enough to wrap around the head.

Crochet Minion Method Eye and Goggle

HEAD & BODY:

NOTES:

  • The head & body are worked in continuous rounds – do not join after each round
  • Begin with yellow yarn

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) x6 [42]

Rnd 8: (sc 6, inc) x6 [48]

Rnd 9: (sc 7, inc) x6 [54]

Rnd 10-26: sc around [54]

Crochet Minion Head
  • ADD HAIR: Cut 6 strands of black yarn, 8″ each. Fold in half and pull one at a time to the inside in between rounds 1 & 2, plus one more straight through the center of the magic circle. Tie off to one another on the inside. Trim as desired.
  • EYE: Sew the eye to the center of the head over rounds 11-19.
  • GOGGLE & STRAP: Sew the goggle directly over the eye. Add the strap around the head, and sew along at several places to secure.
Crochet Minion Method Hair

Switch to blue yarn…

Rnd 27: sl sl around [54]

Rnd 28-30: sc around [54] Place Rnd 28 in between the top two loops of the sl st from Round 27

Rnd 31: (sc 7, dec) x6 [48]

Rnd 32: (sc 6, dec) x6 [42]

Rnd 33: (sc 5, dec) x6 [36]

Rnd 34: (sc 4, dec) x6 [30] STUFF

Rnd 35: (sc 3, dec) x6 [24]

Rnd 36: (sc 2, dec) x6 [18] STUFF

Rnd 37: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Rnd 38: dec around [6]

Sl st in the next st and snip, leaving a long tail. Pull the tail through the final 2 loops. Using the yarn end and a tapestry needle, thread the yarn through the front loop only of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring the yarn to the inside and back out one of the side walls. Snip cleanly with the surface.

Crochet Minion Method Single Crochet
ROUND 28

LEGS – make 2:

NOTES:

  • The legs are worked from the bottom of the foot up
  • The foot starts with a chain and is crocheted around both sides of the chain, and on up the leg

Using the black yarn, begin by chaining 5

Rnd 1: inc in 2nd ch from hk, sc 2, inc. Continue working on other side of the chain: inc, sc 2, inc [12]

Rnd 2: inc, sc 4, inc 2, sc 4, inc [16]

Rnd 3: BLO sc around [16]

Rnd 4: sc 6, dec 2, sc 6 [14]

Rnd 5: sc 5, dec 2, sc 5 [12]

Switch to blue yarn

Rnd 6-10: sc around [12]

Stuff and sew onto body/pants over rounds 33-36.

Minion Free Crochet Pattern Back of Finished Item

ARMS – make 2:

NOTE: The arms are worked in continuous rounds (do not join rounds) using the yellow yarn

Rnd 1: st 4 in a magic circle [4]

Rnd 2: inc around [8]

Rnd 3-14: sc around [8]

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

HANDS & GLOVES – make 2:

NOTES:

  • The hands/gloves are worked in continuous rounds from the wrist down to the fingers, using black
  • The fingers are worked individually onto the glove in continuous rounds

Leave a long starting tail and chain 10. Sl st to join into a ring and ch 1.

Rnd 1: sl st around [10]

Rnd 2: BLO sc around [10]

Rnd 3-4: sc around [10]

Rnd 5: (inc, sc 4) x2 [12]

Using stitch markers, split the round into fingers – each finger will have 4 stitches.

Picking up where you left off, begin making the first finger…

Rnd 6: sc 2, then join to opposite side of glove with a sc to close the round for the 1st finger, sc in next st, completing the first row of the finger.

Rnd 7-8: sc around [4]

Sl st and snip leaving a long tail. Using the yarn tail and a tapestry needle, weave the yarn through the front loop of the remaining 4 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring yarn to inside.

Rejoin black yarn in the next available st, and repeat Rnd 6-8 for the 2nd and 3rd fingers. Pull all yarn tails to the inside except for the starting tail which you will use to sew on. Put glove onto hand and using a tapestry needle, pass the yarn back and forth several times under Rnd 1 to secure the glove onto the arm.

Crochet Minion Side Shoulder

BIBS & STRAPS – make 2:

NOTES:

  • The bibs and straps are worked in turning rows using the blue yarn – chain 1 and turn at the end of each row
  • The turning chain does not count as a stitch

TROUSER BIBS:

Row 1: fsc 13, ch 1, turn

Rnd 2-3: sc across [13]

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the bibs onto the center front and back, lining the first row of the bib over the first round of the blue pants (round 27).

TROUSER STRAPS:

Row 1: fsc 20

Fasten off and snip leaving a very long tail for sewing on. Sew the straps onto the corners of the bibs, but wait to finish off the strap securing until after you sew on the arms – then you’ll know exactly where the strap should be sewn up over the shoulder. If using the optional buttons for the straps, sew those on now.

FINALLY, FINISH UP YOUR MINION FREE CROCHET PATTERN:

  • Stuff the arms lightly and sew them to the sides at round 21.
  • Pull the trouser straps up over the shoulder and finish securing on by using a tapestry needle and taking several stitches all along it from out to in, out to in.
  • Using black yarn, embroider on the mouth.
  • Clean up, bringing all yarn tails to the inside and snipping clean with the surface.
  • Stop, admire your skills and enjoy your Minion! Well done!

I would love to see your completed MINION. Please post pictures on instagram and tag me @offthebeatenhook and use #offthebeatenhook. Cheers!

Minion Free Crochet Pattern Resource Library Graphic

Did you love this Minion free crochet pattern? Want more free amigurumi crochet patterns? Check these out!

Alpine Bath Spa Set Free Crochet Pattern

Bath Spa Set Free Crochet Pattern – the Alpine Bath Collection

Add a little luxury spa to your bath time routine with this Alpine Bath Spa Set free crochet pattern bundle! Included in the bundle are a loofah, washcloth, soap saver and face scrubbie with storage basket. This eco-friendly and sustainable spa set will make an extra special gift for someone you love. Made with 100% organic cotton these bath items are machine washable and dryable. What’s more is they come together quick and easy, making this a perfect project for the beginner!

Start the spa set now by downloading the FREE PDF from the Resource Library here or Pin it for later!

Let’s talk about what makes these pieces from the Alpine Bath spa set free crochet pattern so ideal. First, the washcloth.

Crochet washcloths are a dime a dozen, right?

But I’ve taken extra time to make sure this one has the perfect balance between luxuriously soft and moderately textured for gentle exfoliation and washing. The stitch used gives it the perfect weight – not too thin and not too thick so as to compromise the drapey softness of the fabric. If you just want the Alpine Bath washcloth pattern, it can also be downloaded from the Resource Library here.

My other favorite thing about this washcloth is that you don’t have to make a border! The natural border this pattern creates is beautiful. It has a slightly scalloped look along the edge. The pattern is simple with repeat rows that come together quickly and easily – allowing you to get into a nice mindless flow while you’re waiting for an appointment or watching your favorite show.

Alpine Bath Washcloth Free Crochet Pattern Resource Library Graphic

Next, the soap saver.

This soap saver pouch is great for using with a full bar of soap inside. The ribbed texture is wonderful for exfoliation as it doubles as a washcloth. Alternatively, you can use it to collect all the little end bits of soap bars – when it gets filled up it’s like having a whole bar of soap again! The printable soap saver crochet pattern can be downloaded from the resource library individually or as part of the spa set.

Alpine Bath Soap Saver Free Pattern Resource Library Graphic

Next, the face scrubbies!

Re-usable face scrubbies are BY FAR my absolutely favorite daily-use crochet item. I use them every day with a bit of Thayers Witch Hazel Facial Toner first thing in the morning to freshen up – especially when I’m not jumping in the shower right away (or at all that day). Just toss them in the hamper and wash. I keep 10-12 of them in rotation at all times. These crochet face scrubbies tuck away in the storage basket and are a great opportunity to make your daily life and crochet life more eco-friendly and sustainable.

Finally, this luxurious loofah.

I LOVE this loofah. It is the ultimate addition to your spa set, offering something a bit more exciting than the standard washcloth. This washable shower pouf is the perfect balance between gentle exfoliation from texture and soft cleansing from the organic cotton.

Alpine Bath Loofah Free Crochet Pattern Resource Library Graphic

Materials you will need for the Alpine Bath Spa Set Free Crochet Pattern:

Rico Essentials Organic Cotton Aran | 100% organic cotton
4.50 mm crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
Scissors
– Stitch markers
-Optional: 2 beads for the soap saver drawstring

If you’re picking up your hook today, you can, guaranteed, make AT LEAST one of these tonight. I would love to see the colors you choose for your Alpine Bath Spa Set free crochet pattern bundle items! Tag me on Instagram @offthebeatenhook and use #offthebeatenhook. Enjoy!

This post contains affiliate links at no extra cost to you. If you purchase materials through these links I earn a small commission which helps support my small business and allows me to continue to create free patterns for you! So, thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support!