Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern

When my family and I were enjoying our 5-week stay in Costa Rica, we rented an open-air house for two weeks in Puerto Viejo on the Caribbean. Among other critters of the jungle, the raccoons would pay us a visit every night. Usually, my husband and I were still up playing cards and we would see their cute little heads peeking in under the thatch of the roof checking to see if we were still around. Often we would wake up in the middle of the night to their nocturnal shenanigans and would be welcomed in the morning by some sort of raccoon wreckage in the kitchen. They’re cute, but dang, they’re clever. In fact, did you know that raccoons are ranked just beneath humans and monkeys for their IQ? Well, I hope I do them justice with Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern!

The markings on his face took a while to get just right (or at least what looks right to me) but in the end it was worth it.

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the printable, ad-free pattern of Esteban the Raccoon with lots of in-the-making photos and added tips in my Etsy shop here.

Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern Image 2

This crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart in the Resource Library here. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before beginning so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for helping you along the way and making this an enjoyable, successful project.

Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin

Yarn & Tools Needed:

  • Stylecraft Naturals Organic Cotton: 100% Organic Cotton | DK/Light Worsted
    • Colors & Numbers of Balls:
      • DOVE GRAY – x1
      • IRON BLACK – x1 (you’ll use less than a full ball)
      • GYPSUM WHITE – x1 (you’ll use less than 1/4 ball)
      • POPPY RED – x1 (you’ll use less than 1/4 ball)
      • DEEP SEA BLUE – x1 (barely any for the border of the vest) or leftover scraps from something else
  • Crochet Hook Size: 3.00 mm
  • Safety eyes: 8 mm
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Stuffing
  • Stitch Markers
  • Scissors
  • Optional: tiny buttons for vest

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
hk – hook
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
[…] – number of stitches in row/round
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

Size & Gauge:

I am a firm believer that gauge doesn’t matter with toys. Call me naive or whatever you want, but I’ll take it to the bank! People crochet toys in all different yarn weights and hook sizes. Use yarn and colors that make you happy! This is why we crochet! I don’t want you to stress about gauge. If you use the yarn and hook I recommend, Esteban will end up being about 10″ tall.

The Pattern:

Notes:

  • Esteban and his body parts are crocheted in continuous rounds. Do not slip stitch and chain one to join rounds – just keep on going!
  • The snout and ears require color changing. Remember to properly change your colors by introducing the new color during the final loop of the previous color
  • Color abbreviations: w=white, b=black, g=gray and will be indicated in each row after the method is explained. For example, Rnd 4 involves increasing in each st around: w4, b2, w3 means: inc in white 4 times, increase in black 2 times, increase in white 3 times.

Snout:

Begin with black yarn

Rnd 1: st 9 into a magic circle [9]

Rnd 2-3: sc in each st around [9]

Introduce white in rnd 4

Rnd 4: inc in each st around: w4, b2, w3 [18]

Rnd 5: sc in each stitch around: w8, b4, w6 [18]

Rnd 6: w(sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x2, b sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, w sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st [22]

Rnd 7: sc in each st around: w10, b5, w7 [22]

Rnd 8: w (sc in next 4, inc in next st), switch to black in the final st of the previous increase, b sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st [26]

Rnd 9: sc in each st around: w12, b6, w8 [26]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail of white and black for sewing on. Stuff.

Ears – make 2:

Begin with white yarn

Rnd 1: sc 6 into a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: sc in each st around [6]

Rnd 3: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Switch to gray yarn

Rnd 5-10: sc in each st around [18]

Flatten ears and visualize embroidery. Embroider black inner ears on one side of the flattened ear (not through both layers) by taking a long strand of black yarn and doubling it up through a tapestry needle. Pass the tapestry needle several times horizontally back and forth under/over one side of the ear. Tie off the end inside the ear. Flatten ears.

Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern Image 4

Head:

Notes:

  • Color changing: rounds 14-23 involve color changing 2-4 times in one round. Remember to introduce your new color during the final loop of the previous color
  • Color abbreviations are: b=black, w=white
  • Color changing for rounds 14-17 do not involve decreasing or increasing – only sc around the entire round:The pattern will indicate the color followed by the number of sc stitches to be made with that color. For example (Rnd 17): w22, b27, w22 means sc 22 white, sc 27 black, sc 22 white
    • The pattern will indicate the color followed by the number of sc stitches to be made with that color. For example (Rnd 17): w22, b27, w22 means sc 22 white, sc 27 black, sc 22 white
    • Color changing for rounds 18-23 involve decreasing, but you’ll never have to decrease DURING a color change (whew!)
    • For rounds 18-23, the method for the entire row is provided and immediately beneath that, I’ve detailed out exactly which color and stitches to perform as you go around.

Begin with gray yarn

Rnd 1: st 6 into a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 11: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) x6 [66]

Rnd 12: (sc in next 10 st, inc in next st) x6 [72]

Switch to white yarn

Rnd 13: sc in each st around [72]

Rnd 14: sc in each st around with color changes: w28, b5, w5, b5, w28 [72]

Rnd 15: sc in each st around with color changes: w25, b8, w5, b8, w25 [72]

Rnd 16: sc in each st around with color changes: w22, b27, w22 [72]

Rnd 17: sc in each st around with color changes: w19, b33, w19 [72]

Rnd 18: (sc in next 10 st, dec in next st) x6 with color changes:

w15 as follows: sc 10, dec, sc 4,

b36 as follows: sc 6, dec, (sc 10, dec) x2, sc 7,

w15 as follows: sc 3, dec, sc 10, dec [66]

Rnd 19: (sc in next 9 st, dec in next st) x6 with color changes:

w14 as follows: sc 9, dec, sc 4,

b33 as follows: sc 5, dec, (sc 9, dec) x2, sc 7

w13 as follows: sc 2, dec, sc 9, dec [60]

Rnd 20: (sc in next 8 st, dec in next st) x6 with color changes:

w16 as follows: sc 8, dec, sc 7,

b26 as follows: sc 1, dec, (sc 8, dec) x2, sc 6

w12 as follows: sc 2, dec, sc 8, dec, [54]

Rnd 21: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6

w16 as follows: (sc 7, dec) x2

b16 as follows: (sc 7, dec) x2

w16 as follows: (sc 7, dec) x2 [48]

Rnd 22: sc in each st around with color changes: w19, b10, w19 [48]

Rnd 23: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6

w21 as follows: (sc 6, dec) x3

b2 as follows: sc 2

w19 as follows: sc 4, dec, (sc 6, dec) x2 [42]

Switch to white only

Rnd 24: sc in each st around [42]

Rnd 25: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) x6 [36]

Switch to gray

Rnd 26-27: sc in each st around [36]

Place a stitch marker and set your hook aside. Do not fasten off as you will pick up the round again and continue on with the body after you assemble the face/head pieces.

ASSEMBLY OF FACE/HEAD:

  • Sew on the snout over rounds 16-26, keeping it nice and round. Pass the needle from the inside of the head to the outside, picking up both loops of the stitch you are sewing on. Stuff the snout firmly before making your final several stitches
  • Sew on the ears centered on top of head, over rounds 4-11
  • Insert safety eyes between rounds 18 and 19, to the left and right of snout, leaving 2-3 stitches between the snout and the eyes
  • Stuff head and take a look at how adorable he is! Esteban the Raccoon free crochet pattern is starting to come to life!
Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern Image 5

Body & Legs

Pick up where you left off after the head…

Rnd 28: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 29: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 30: sc in each st around [48]

Rnd 31: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 32: sc in each st around [54]

Rnd 33: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 34-35: sc in each st around [60]

Rnd 36: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) x6 [66]

Rnd 37-38: sc in each st around [66]

Rnd 39: (sc in next 10 st, inc in next st) x6 [72]

Rnd 40-45: sc in each st around [72]

Rnd 46: (sc in next 10 st, dec in next st) x6 [66]

Rnd 47: sc in each st around [66]

Rnd 48: (sc in next 9 st, dec in next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 49: sc in each st around[60]

Rnd 50: (sc in next 8 st, dec in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 51: sc in each st around [54]

Rnd 52: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 53: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 54-56: sc in each st around [42]

Begin stuffing body

LEGS:

Divide work for the legs. There will be 15 st for each of the legs and 12 st for the gap in between the legs (6 from the front and 6 from the back). Using stitch markers, work out the division per the above number of stitches, making sure the legs are centered on the body in relation to the head

Start with the left leg:

If needed, add or remove a few stitches to get to the point of the back of the left leg. Join the back to the front making a sc.

Rnd 57-63: sc in each st around [15]

Switch to white

Rnd 64-65: sc in each st around [15]

Switch to black

Rnd 66-67: sc in each st around [15]

Rnd 68: (sc in next 3 st, dec in next st) x3 [12]

Stuff leg

Rnd 69: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x3 [8]

Rnd 70: (sc in next st, dec in next st) x3 [5]

Cut yarn leaving a tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn through the front loop only of the remaining 5 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring the yarn to the inside and snip off.

Just a quick note at this point…

If you’re struggling, I do provide LOTS (over 20) of photos in the written pattern that give you close-ups of many of the steps including color changing, sewing-on and dividing stitches for the legs. If you need some help, you can find the pattern here.

Legs continued…

Right leg:

Leaving a long starting tail (to sew the gap closed later), rejoin gray yarn on the back side on the 7th unworked stitch (leaving the first 6 for the gap between the legs).

Rnd 57: sc in the next 15 st, join the back to the front (where you just rejoined the gray yarn), making a sc [15]

Rnd 58-70: repeat pattern as with the first leg

Finish stuffing body through the gap between the legs. Using the long starting tail from the right leg, sew closed the gap between the legs.

Arms – make 2:

Begin with black yarn

Rnd 1: st 6 into a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-4: sc in each st around [12]

Switch to white yarn

Rnd 5-6: sc in each st around [12]

Switch to gray yarn

Rnd 7-16: sc in each st around [12]

Stuff arm. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Close the openings of the arms. Sew on arms, 3 rnds below the neck on either side of the body.

Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern Image 3

Tail:

Begin with black yarn

Rnd 1: st 6 into a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 5-7: sc in each st around [24]

Switch to gray yarn

Rnd 8-11: sc in each st around [24]

Switch to black yarn

Rnd 12-15: sc in each st around [24]

Rnd 16-31: repeat rnds 8-15 (creating 4 more alternating stripes) [24]

Switch to gray yarn

Rnd 32: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) [18]

Rnd 33-34: sc in each st around [18]

Stuff tail. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew on tail on the back of Esteban over rounds 45-51.

Esteban the Raccoon Free Crochet Pattern Image 8

Vest:

The vest is worked in turning rows. Chain 1 and turn at the end of each row.

Begin by making a chain of 51

Row 1: hdc in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each ch thereafter [50]

Row 2-6: hdc in each st across [50]

Row 7: dec in next st, hdc in next 6 st, (dec in next st, hdc in next 6 st) x5, dec in last st [43]

Row 4: dec in next st, hdc in next 4 st, (dec in next st, hdc in next 5 st) x5, dec in last st [36]

Row 5: dec in next st, hdc in next 4, ch 6, sk 6, hdc in next 12, ch 6, sk 6, hdc in next 4, dec in last [34]

Row 6: dec in next st, hdc in next 30 st, dec in last st [32]

Weave in red ends. Using blue yarn, rejoin at the first corner and single crochet a border all the way around. Sl st to first st and fasten off. Weave in ends.

Sew on optional buttons. Put the vest on Esteban – you’ve brought him to life!

I hope you’ve enjoyed making this raccoon free crochet pattern as much as I did! If you want to be the first to know about new free patterns, tutorials and resources, you can join the Off the Beaten Hook community by entering your name and email below!

Esteban Raccoon Crochet Pattern Resource Library Graphic

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects your cost. These partnerships help me support my small business and allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

Want more free crochet patterns? Check these out!

Fern Shrug Cardigan Sweater Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

Fern Shrug Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern

This pattern uses a single crochet/half double crochet combo stitch that I love so much. I used this same combo stitch on my Tundra Cardigan which is also made with a rectangle for the main body. I loved it so much I designed this Fern Shrug Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern using the same stitch and extended it’s use onto the sleeves. This shrug is so cute and versatile. I use Lion Brand Heartland acrylic yarn which has lots of color offerings. Green is my favorite color, so I wanted to make a sweater using the gorgeous Kings Canyon forest green. The yarn is also super soft and easy to work with. Give it a try if you never have before!

The Fern Shrug Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern is written for sizes XS through 3XL and is ready for the ambitious beginner. I hope you love it!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the full, printable, ad-free pattern of the Fern Shrug Cardigan with lots of helpful pictures and additional tips on my Etsy shop here!

You can also help yourself to a printable, ad-free copy of the Fern Shrug Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern by subscribing to my blog and gaining instant access to my resource library which is full of printable patterns, printable resources (quick reference cards, guides, etc) and video tutorials.

Fern Shrug Cardigan Sweater Free Crochet Pattern Image 10

Gauge:

4”x4” = 15 stitches x 14 rows

I encourage you to make a small rectangle swatch to be sure your gauge is correct. It’s also a good idea to measure now and again and try on the sweater as you go along. This will ensure it will fit right when it’s done!

Sizing:

This pattern is written in size XS/S with size S/M, M/L, L/XL, XL/2XL & 2XL/3XL following in parenthesis. The model pictured is wearing size XS with a bust of 34″.

Length (shoulder to hem):

XS/S: 24″
S/M: 26″
M/L: 28″
L/XL: 30″
XL/2XL: 32″
2XL/3XL: 34″

Bust:

XS/S: 32-34″
S/M: 34-36″
M/L: 36-40″
L/XL: 40-44″
XL/2XL: 44-48″
2XL/3XL: 48-52″

I also include a detailed sizing chart for the Fern Shrug Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern in the ad-free and fully printable 7-page PDF pattern here. The sizing chart includes all measurements in inches as well in stitch count for all sizes for the bust, length and sleeves so you can easily customize for your exact size.

Fern Shrug Cardigan Pinterest Pin

Materials you will need:

  • Lion Brand Yarns Heartland
    • Kings Canyon – x6(7, 7, 8, 8, 8) 1506(1757, 1757, 2008, 2008, 2008) yards
  • Crochet Hook Size: 6.00 mm / US J
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Stitch Markers
  • Scissors

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
sk – skip
fhdc – foundation half double crochet
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
FLO – front loop only
[…] – number of stitches in row/round
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

The Pattern

Main Rectangle:

Notes:

  • The main rectangle is worked in rows, turning at the end of each row
  • The turning chain does not count as a stitch
  • Wrong side (ws) is where the beginning and ending tails are on the side of your dominant hand when the rectangle is laying flat
  • Tip: the sc/hdc pairs are made into the sc from the previous row (versus the hdc)
  • Feel free to adjust the size of the main rectangle to best match your body. Use the gauge and the size chart on the printable version to determine measurements.
Fern Shrug Cardigan Sweater Free Crochet Pattern Image 6

Row 1: fhdc 124(131, 138, 145, 152, 159)

Row 2-70(73, 76, 79, 82, 85): ch 1, turn, (sk next st, sc and hdc in next st) repeat to end of row

Row 71(74, 77, 80, 83, 86): hdc in each st across

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Fern Shrug Cardigan Sweater Free Crochet Pattern Image 5

Seaming for armholes:

Lay the main rectangle flat with the wrong side facing up. The beginning and ending tails should be on the side of your dominant hand. Fold the rectangle in half hot-dog style (the longer sides together).

Beginning from the folded crease edge, measure 4.5″(4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5)and place a stitch marker. You may want to place several stitch markers to be sure your seaming will be accurate. Repeat on other side. This measured area will not be seamed together and is now the opening to the sleeves.

Fern Shrug Cardigan Sweater Free Crochet Pattern Image 11

Beginning from the folded corners (the opposite side from where you began measuring at the crease), use a tapestry needle and seam the edge all the way up to the stitch marker. I recommend using the mattress stitch for seaming.

Unfold the rectangle and lay flat. You can now see the rectangle forming the main body of the cardigan – the back, the front edges and the arm holes. Place a stitch marker where bottom front edge of the cardigan meets the back bottom of the cardigan. This is where you will begin crocheting the collar. At this point, I also place a stitch marker anywhere along the outside of the cardigan to mark the right side to avoid confusion before continuing.

Fern Shrug Cardigan Sweater Free Crochet Pattern Image 4

Collar:

  • The collar is made by crocheting turning rows of hdc through the front loop only, turning at the end of each row. This is what creates the ribbing.

Rejoin yarn at the bottom front edge where you placed your stitch marker in the previous step.

Row 1: hdc around the entire front opening of the cardigan, sl st to first st

Row 2-18: ch 1, turn, FLO hdc across, sl st to first st

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Sleeves:

  • The sleeves are crocheted directly onto the cardigan, using the same sc/hdc pair stitch as with the main rectangle
  • The sleeves are made using turning rounds, slip stitching, chaining 1, and turning after each round
  • Tip: the sc/hdc pairs are made into the sc from the previous row (versus the hdc)
  • The sleeves should have approximately 40(42, 44, 46, 48, 50) stitches around based on the sleeve opening.
  • Check the length of your sleeves as you near the end and add or subtract rows to achieve your desired length.

Rejoin yarn at sleeve opening as shown in. This feels like a weird place to start the round, but starting here will ensure the seam is not on the front of your sleeve, but rather underneath.

Rnd 1: ch 1, make 40(42, 44, 46, 48, 50) hdc evenly around the opening, sl st to first st in round – (you may need to try a couple times to get these stitches placed evenly around)

Rnd 2-41(42, 43, 44, 45, 46): ch 1, turn, (sk next st, sc and hdc in next st) repeat to end of row, ending in the last st of Rnd 1, sl st to first st in round

Try on the sweater and be sure you are happy with the length of the sleeves. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Congrats! Cozy up and enjoy your hard work. Let me know what you think!

Fern Shrug Cardigan Sweater Free Crochet Pattern Image 9

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects your cost. These partnerships help me support my small business and allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

Want more free crochet patterns? Check these out!

Diamond Ridge Throw Blanket - Free Crochet Blanket Image 3

Diamond Ridge Throw Blanket Free Crochet Pattern

Cozy up with this easy Diamond Ridge Throw Blanket Free Crochet Pattern. This throw crochets up with a section of front post ridges followed by a section of bobble diamonds. You then repeat those sections a few times, allowing you to get into a relaxing flow that has enough going on to keep your interest. And you can take that to the bank, because it’s coming from someone who gets bored super easily and has a hard time committing to big crochet projects (like blankets)! The final result is comfortingly cozy and beautiful to display!

I’ve been keeping my eye on this gorgeous Hue + Me Yarn by Lion Brand because I’m obsessed with all the soft colors. The colors just make me feel all zen and cozy when I look at them so it felt perfect to make a blanket out of one of them. They recently added to the color pallet as well, so I guess I’ll have to come up with another excuse to try out more of them! For the Diamond Ridge Throw Blanket Free Crochet Pattern, I landed on Agave, but any of the lovely colors (or a combination of them) will turn out beautifully when making this throw. Major bonus – this yarn is washable + dryable!

WIN-WIN-WIN!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the full, printable, ad-free pattern of the Diamond Ridge Throw Blanket – Crochet Pattern with lots of helpful pictures and additional tips on my Etsy shop here!

Diamond Ridge Throw Blanket - Free Crochet Blanket Image 6

Size:

This blanket turns out to be approximately 42″ x 40″. It’s a great size to cozy up under – definitely bigger than a lap blanket! Also, don’t worry about gauge. I’m definitely of the belief that gauge doesn’t always matter – and blankets are one of those times. Just find the tension that feels good and let it flow!

Diamond Ridge Throw Blanket Pinterest Pin Image

Materials you will need:

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
sk – skip
hk – hook
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
fpsc – front post single crochet (instructions below)
fpdc – front post double crochet (instructions below)
DcBo – double crochet bobble stitch (instructions below)
[…] – number of stitches in row/round
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

The Pattern

Blanket notes:

  • The turning chain always counts as a stitch, so don’t forget to make a stitch into the top of the double crochet turning chain as you go along
  • Turn your work at the end of each row (For clarity, I mention the number of chains in your turning chain for each row since we’re alternating between sc and dc rows, but I don’t explicitly say “turn” on each row… but do it!)
  • The bobbles and the ridges should always be raised on the same side as each other

Start by chaining 132

Row 1: sk next 2 st, dc in each st across [130]

Row 2: ch 1, fpsc in each st across (around top post only, not the long post. Refer to special method instructions in pattern tips above)

Row 3: ch 2, sk next st, dc in each st across

Row 4: ch 1, fpsc in each st across

Row 5: ch 2, sk next st, dc in each st across

Row 6: ch 2, fpsc in each st across

Row 7: ch 1, sc in next 12 st, (DcBo in next st, sc in next 20 st) x5, DcBo in next st, sc in next 12 st

Row 8: ch 1, sc in each st across

Diamond Ridge Throw Blanket - Free Crochet Blanket

Row 9: ch 1, sc in next 10 st, (DcBo in next st, sc in next 3 st, DcBo in next st, sc in next 16 st) x5, DcBo in next st, sc in next 3 st, DcBo in next st, sc in next 10 st

Row 10: ch 1, sc in each st across

Row 11: ch 1, sc in next 8 st, (DcBo in next st, sc in next 7 st, DcBo in next st, sc in next 12 st) x5, DcBo in next st, sc in next 7 st, DcBo in next st, sc in next 8 st

Row 12: ch 1, sc in each st across

Row 13: ch 1, sc in next 6 st, (DcBo in next st, sc in next 5 st, DcBo in next st, sc in next 5 st, DcBo in next st, sc in next 8 st) x5, DcBo in next st, sc in next 5 st, DcBo in next st, sc in next 5 st, DcBo in next st, sc in next 6 st

Row 14: ch 1, sc in each st across

Row 15: ch 2, sc in next 4 st, (DcBo in next st, sc in next 5 st, DcBo in next st, sc in next 3 st, DcBo in next st, sc in next 5 st, DcBo in next st, sc in next 4 st) x6

Row 16: ch 1, sc in each st across

Diamond Ridge Throw Blanket - Free Crochet Blanket Image 4

Row 17-24: repeat rows 6-13 IN REVERSE ORDER. So, you will repeat row 13, then 12, then 11, etc…ending with row 6. (Row 17=Row 13 / Row 18=Row 12 / Row 19=Row 11 / Row 20=Row 10 / Row 21=Row 9 / Row 22=Row 8 / Row 23=Row 7 / Row 24=Row 6)

Row 25: ch 2, sk next st, dc in each st across

Row 26: ch 2, fpsc in each st across (remember, top post only, not the long post)

Diamond Ridge Throw Blanket - Free Crochet Blanket Image 2

Row 27-30: repeat rows 25 & 26 twice (Row 27 & 29=Row 25 / Row 28 & 30=Row 26

Row 31: ch 2, sk next st, dc in each st across

Row 32: ch 1, fpsc in each st across

Row 33-49: repeat rows 7-23 (bobble diamond section repeat)

Row 50-58: repeat rows 24-32 (ridges section repeat)

Row 59-75: repeat rows 7-23 (bobble diamond section repeat)

Row 76: ch 1, fpsc in each st across

Row 77: ch 2, sk next st, dc in each st across

Row 78: ch 1, fpsc in each st across

Row 79: ch 2, sk next st, dc in each st across

Row 80: ch 1, fpsc in each st across

Row 81: ch 2, sk next st, dc in each st across

Diamond Ridge Throw Blanket - Free Crochet Blanket Image 7

Border:

Continuing straight away, down the left side of the throw, make a border of single crochet, placing 1 single crochet in the end of each of the single crochet rows (for example, rows 2, 4, 6, 7 & 8) and placing 2 single crochets into the ends of each of the double crochet rows. Place 2 single crochets into each corner of the blanket, before proceeding down the next side, to prevent curling corners. Repeat all the way around, creating a border.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

After all your hard work, wrap yourself up in this super cozy Diamond Ridge Throw Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern and enjoy the relaxing fruits of your labor!

And remember, you can always pick up a copy of the printable, ad-free copy of this Diamond Ridge Throw Blanket from my Etsy shop here! Thank you for crocheting with me!

Diamond Ridge Throw Blanket - Free Crochet Blanket Image 8

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my blog and small business which allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

Want more free crochet patterns? Check these out!

Napali the Sea Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

Napali the Sea Turtle Free Crochet Pattern

I think this little fella hits the perfect balance between adorable but realistic. Napali the Sea Turtle Free Crochet Pattern inspiration came from the beautiful coastal waters of Kauai, Hawaii. Named after the epic Napali coast and inspired by the incredible creatures of these waters, Napali the Sea Turtle will capture your heart as you bring him to life through the art of crochet.

I have a pretty robust bucket list. Not only robust in the way of the things I want to experience in this lifetime, but robust in the way that it is a legitimate scrapbook that keeps track of photos and stories around when and how I accomplish the things on said bucket list.

Yes, it’s that serious.

Experiencing adventure and experiencing the cultures of the world brings me life and brings me joy. My mind is just BLOWN by the colors, smells, sounds, tastes, sights and feels of LIFE around this globe. As such, the memory of the first time I swam with the turtles of the Hawaiian coast (which was in 2016) is burned in my brain as one of the most peaceful and special memories I have. And now, having swam with the turtles of the Kauai-an coast, I’ve been inspired to crochet a toy that will represent a piece of this island paradise. He is named after a hike that my husband and I have been dreaming of doing for many many years – the Napali Coast. We were finally able to experience the magic of this experience this month.

So enough of the sentimental and on to the pattern!

This Sea Turtle Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern version is supported by ads on my blog. If you’d like, you can find the full, ad-free pattern of Napali the Sea Turtle Crochet Pattern on my Etsy shop here!

Napali the Seat Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Image 6

Napali’s ad-free pattern is a beautiful 8-page PDF document with detailed instructions and accompanied by LOTS of clear pictures and diagrams to help you along the way. Find the Napali the Sea Turtle Amigurumi Crochet Pattern here!

Napali Sea Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin

Materials you will need:


– DK/light worsted weight yarn / 100% cotton
Rowan Handknit Cotton DK in GOOSEBERRY – 1 and
1/4 balls
Rowan Summerlite Cotton DK in PICKLES – 1/4 ball
3.00 mm crochet hook
– Stuffing
– 8 mm safety eyes
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Stitch markers

Abbreviations used on the pattern:


ch (chain)
st (stitch)
sc (single crochet)
hdc (half double crochet)
dc (double crochet)
tc (treble cro het)
inc (increase: 2 single crochets in one stitch)
dec (decrease: 2 stitches together)
sl st (slip stitch)
(…)x (repeat instructions indicated number of times)
[…] total number of stitches in round

The Pattern

Shell:

The shell is created by making 7 hexagons in continuous rounds and then crocheting them together. The hexagons will use both colors.

HEXAGONS – make 7

Start in color Gooseberry

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in the next st, inc in the next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Switch to color Pickles

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, 3 sc in the next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 6: sl st in each st around [36]

Fasten off.

JOINING HEXAGONS:

Join hexagons together as shown in. Sew the hexagons together through the back loop only of round 5. Slip stitch will show both loops around the top of the hexagons, but the back loop of round 5 will be available to join together on the back of the hexagons. Next, crochet the border around the hexagons: Rejoin yarn at one of the tips of a hexagon (the middle of the 3 stitch clump) and continue joining around as follows:

Rnd 1: (sc in the next 6 st, hdc in the next 2 st, dc in the next 2 st, tc in the next 4 st, dc in the next 2 st, hdc in the next 2 st) x6 [108]

Rnd 2: sc in each st around [108]

Sl st to next st. Fasten off.

Napali the Seat Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Image 4

Tummy

The tummy is crocheted in continuous rounds using

the color Gooseberry. You do not have to join at

the end of each round. Just keep on goin’!

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in the next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in the next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in the next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in the next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in the next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in the next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in the next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 11: (sc in next 9 st, inc in the next st) x6 [66]

Rnd 12: (sc in next 10 st, inc in the next st) x6 [72]

Rnd 13: (sc in next 11 st, inc in the next st) x6 [78]

Rnd 14: (sc in next 12 st, inc in the next st) x6 [84]

Rnd 15: (sc in next 13 st, inc in the next st) x6 [90]

Rnd 16: (sc in next 14 st, inc in the next st) x6 [96]

Rnd 17: (sc in next 15 st, inc in the next st) x6 [102]

Rnd 18: (sc in next 16 st, inc in the next st) x6 [108]

Sl st to next st. Fasten off.

Napali the Seat Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Image 2

The head is crocheted by making a square for the face, and then crocheting in continuous rounds around the outside of the square and continuing on for the remainder of the head and neck.

Start by chaining 5

Row 1: sc in the 2nd back bump from the chain, and the next 3 st [4]

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across [4]

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in next 3 st, inc in last st. Continue on to the next (2nd) side: sc in next 2 st, inc in last st. Continue on to the next (3rd) side: sc in next 3 st, inc in last st. Continue on to the last (4th) side: sc in next 2 st, inc in last st [18]

Rnd 4-11: sc in each st around [18]

Insert safety eyes between rows 5 and 6, with 6 or 7 stitches spaced over the top of the head. Using a length of yarn and a tapestry needle, embroider the eyelids by inserting the needle from the inside to the outside at the top, back corner of the safety eye and inserting it back in on the opposite corner, back out from the top where you first started, and back in at the bottom. Repeat immediately on the other eye with the same thread. Refer to PHOTO 05 for a close illustration of the eye and embroidered eyelid. Stuff head.

Rnd 12: (sc in next 4 st, dec in the next st) x3 [15]

Rnd 13: (sc in next 3 st, dec in the next st) x3 [12]

Rnd 14-17: sc in each st around [12]

Sl st to fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Napali the Seat Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Image 5

Front Flippers – make 2

Rnd 1: sc 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: sc in each st around [6]

Rnd 3: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x2 [8]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x2 [10]

Rnd 5: inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, inc in next st [12]

Rnd 6: inc in next st, sc in next 10 st, inc in next st [14]

Rnd 7: inc in next st, sc in next 12 st, inc in next st [16]

Rnd 8: sc in each st around [16]

Rnd 9: inc in next st, sc in next 14 st, inc in next st [18]

Rnd 10: sc in each st around [18]

Rnd 11: inc in next st, sc in next 7 st, dec in next st, sc in next 7 st, inc in next st [19]

Rnd 12: sc in each st around [19]

Rnd 13: inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, dec in next st, sc in next 7 st, inc in next st [20]

Rnd 14: sc in each st around [20]

Rnd 15-21: inc in next st, sc in next 7 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 7 st, inc in next st [20]

Rnd 22: sc in next 8 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 8 st [18]

Rnd 23: sc in next 7 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 7 st [16]

Rnd 24: sc in next 6 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 6 st [14]

Sl st to next st. Fasten off.

Napali Sea Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Image 3

Back Flippers – make 2

Rnd 1: sc 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-4: sc in each st around [12]

Rnd 5: (make 3 sc in next st) x3, sc in next 2 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 2 st [16]

Rnd 6-8: sc in each st around [16]

Rnd 9: sc in next 5 st, (make 3 sc in next st) x3, sc in next 4 st, dec in next 2 st [20]

Rnd 10-14: sc in each st around [20]

Rnd 15: dec in next st, sc in next 6 st, dec in next st, sc in next 8 st, dec in next st [17]

Rnd 16: sc in next 7 st, dec in next st, sc in next 6 st, dec in next st [15]

Rnd 17: sc in next 6 st, dec in next st, sc in next 5 st, dec in next st [13]

Rnd 18: sc in each st around [13]

Sl st to next st. Fasten off.

Napali Sea Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Image 2

Tail

Rnd 1: sc 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: sc in each st around [6]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x3 [9]

Rnd 4: sc in each st around [9]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x3 [12]

Rnd 6: sc in each st around [12]

Rnd 7: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x3 [15]

Rnd 8: sc in each st around [15]

Sl st to next st. Fasten off.

Assembly

It’s time to put together Napali the Sea Turtle Free Crochet Pattern! Begin with the head and sew shell to top side of head along 6 stitches of head opening and continue with the tummy-piece underneath. Continue down one side, sewing the shell and tummy together – picking up one loop from the shell and two loops from the tummy as pictured in. This will allow for a nice, clean border around the turtle, without having the sewn stitches showing. Sew in first flipper lined approximately up with the outer flat side of one of the outer hexagon. Continue down to the back flipper and sew it in approximately along where you made the 4 treble crochet stitches around the outside of the shell. Stop here and do not sew in tail yet.

Start again with the other side of the head and repeat in the same manner down the other side of the turtle. You can stuff a bit before you make it to the back flipper. Then, after sewing in the second back flipper be sure to stuff to your liking before you sew in the tail. I stuffed very lightly so as to keep the turtle pretty flat.

Finally, sew in the tail and you’re done!

I hope you had fun making Napali the Sea Turtle Free Crochet Pattern! If you’d like to purchase the ad-free, full 8-page printable PDF of Napali the Sea Turtle, you can do so from my Etsy shop here!

Napali the Seat Turtle Free Crochet Pattern Image 1

Love crochet amigurumi? I have more animal and free food toy patterns! Here’s a couple you might be interested in:

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free crochet pattern featured image

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern

I named this Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern after the color of yarn I used. Am I allowed to do that? It just fit too perfectly. And since the majestic Mt Rainier is just on the other side of this beautiful Washington State from me, I just went with it. Let me know if I’m going to get in trouble and I’ll change it.

I had a vision for this sweater from the moment I laid my eyes on this gorgeous and SUPER FUN yarn by Lion Brand Yarns. It’s next-to-skin soft and perfectly lightweight. My vision for this sweater had the following requirements:

  1. No seaming
  2. No turning rounds – only continuous rounds
  3. Puffed sleeves
  4. Slightly cropped

NAILED IT!

The Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern is written for sizes XS through 2XL and is easily adjusted if you want it more cropped, less cropped, longer sleeves, shorter sleeves, totally short sleeves, whatever you fancy. Super easy, super approachable. Absolutely ready for the beginner too!

Have fun!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the full, printable, ad-free pattern of the Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater with lots of helpful pictures and additional tips on my Etsy shop here!

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern Image 1

Gauge:

4”x4” = 14 stitches x 11 rows of HDC (3.5 stitches = 1″ / 2.75 rows = 1″)

I encourage you to make a small rectangle swatch to be sure your gauge is correct. It’s also a good idea to measure now and again and try on the sweater as you go along. This will ensure it will fit right when it’s done!

Sizing:

This pattern is written in size XS with size S, M, L, XL, 2XL following in parenthesis. The size can be easily modified by taking your measurements and adjusting the number of chains or rows. Use this sizing information or the gauge above to determine your custom measurements. The model pictured is wearing size XS with a bust of 34″.

Length (shoulder to hem):

XS: 19″
S: 21.5″
M: 24″
L: 27″
XL: 30.5″
2XL: 34″

Bust:

XS: 38″
S: 40″
M: 42″
L: 44″
XL: 46″
2XL: 48″

Sleeve Length:

XS: 25.5″
S: 25.5″
M: 26.75″
L: 26.75″
XL: 28″
2XL: 28″

I also include a detailed sizing chart for the Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern in the ad-free and fully printable 10-page PDF pattern here. The sizing chart includes all measurements in inches as well in stitch count for all sizes for the bust, length and sleeves so you can easily customize for your exact size.

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Image

Materials you will need:

  • Lion Brand Yarns Heartland Tweed
    • Mt Rainier Tweed – x6(6, 7, 7, 8, 8) 1200(1200, 1400, 1400, 1600, 1600) yards
  • Crochet Hook Size: 6.00 mm / US J
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Stitch Markers
  • Scissors
  • Measuring Tape

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
st mk – stitch marker
sl st – slip stitch
hk – hook
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
BLO – back loop only
hdc inc – half double crochet increase
hdc dec – half double crochet decrease
[…] – number of stitches in row/round
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

The Pattern

Collar:

Collar notes:

  • The ribbed collar is worked in rows, turning at the end of each row
  • There is no right or wrong side
  • The ribbing is made by crocheting in the back loop only (BLO)

Start by chaining 7

Row 1-48(48, 54, 54, 60, 60): BLO sc in 2nd ch from hk and next 5 [6]

To close circular collar, sl st in 1st st of row 1, and ch 1. Make sure collar is not twisted, then, holding the first and last row together, sl st through front loops of last row to back loops of first row, along each of the 6 stitches of the rows. Do not fasten as you will continue straight away with the body of the sweater.

Yoke:

Yoke notes:

  • The yoke is worked in continuous rounds – do not turn at the end of each round
  • Multiple increases will be made as you work your way around. ALWAYS MARK THE FIRST STITCH OF EACH INCREASE WITH A STITCH MARKER. Each time you come around, an increase will be made where the stitch marker is. With each increase, always move the stitch marker to the first stitch made for each increase. This way, you will not have to count your stitches in each round. However, for reference (or if you prefer to count each round), you can refer to the chart on page 7 of the printable pattern to be sure your stitch count is correct every now and again. The chart includes stitch counts for every size and every row!
  • Before proceeding, slip the collar over your head and make sure you are happy with the size. If not, adjust up or down a size and then carry on.

Starting straight away from where you left off on the collar, ch 2 (counts as your first hdc)

Rnd 1: hdc in each st around [48](48, 54, 54, 60, 60)

Rnd 2: (hdc in next 5 st, hdc inc in next st) x8(8, 9, 9, 10, 10) [56](56, 63, 63, 70, 70)

You should now have 8(8, 9, 9, 10, 10) st markers along round 2.

Rnd 3-24(25, 27, 28, 30, 31): Continue to hdc around, placing a hdc inc where each of those st markers are. Continue in this way, moving your st mk to the first hdc inc st each time as explained in the notes above. [232](240, 264, 272, 296, 304)

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern Image 9

Splitting for Sleeves:

You will now split the yoke into the body and the sleeves. You will no longer increase in any stitches at all. However, because I like to play it safe, I used several small pieces of brightly colored yarn to mark where the stitch markers were in case I needed to back up and adjust the size.

Lay the yoke out flat. You will now count stitches to split for the sleeves. Make sure where you left off on the yoke is at the armpit of one of the sleeves. For each sleeve, count 48(48, 56, 56, 64, 64) stitches around for each sleeve opening and mark with a stitch marker.

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern Image 7

Body:

Body notes:

  • The body is worked in continuous rounds – there is no increasing from this point forward
  • There is no specific front or back side
  • Feel free to adjust the length of the Rnd 1-14(21, 26, 30, 33, 35) section if you want the sweater longer or more cropped. Just use the gauge to determine how long or short (in inches) you ultimately want the sweater to be.

Join the body at the armpits: pick up where you left off on the yoke which should now be located at one of the armpits, join the front to back where you placed your stitch marker for the sleeve opening, making a hdc. Continue around to the opposite armpit where you placed your stitch marker for the other sleeve opening and join front and back, making a hdc. Continue on…

Rnd 1-14(21, 23, 24, 26, 27): hdc in each st around [136](144, 152, 160, 168, 176)

Rnd 15(22, 24, 25, 27, 28): (hdc in next 15 st, hdc dec in next st) x8(9, 10, 11, 12, 13) [128](136, 144, 152, 160, 168)

Rnd 16(23, 25, 26, 28, 29): hdc in each st around [128](136, 144, 152, 160, 168)

Rnd 17(24, 26, 27, 29, 30): (hdc in next 14 st, hdc dec in next st) x8(9, 10, 11, 12, 13) [120](128, 136, 144, 152, 160)

Rnd 18(25, 27, 28, 30, 31): hdc in each st around [120](128, 136, 144, 152, 160)

Rnd 19(26, 28, 29, 31, 32): (hdc in next 13 st, hdc dec in next st) x8(9, 10, 11, 12, 13) [112](120, 128, 136, 144, 152)

Rnd 20(27, 29, 30, 32, 33): hdc in each st around [112](120, 128, 136, 144, 152)

Rnd 21(28, 30, 31, 33, 34): (hdc in next 12 st, hdc dec in next st) x8(9, 10, 11, 12, 13) [104](112, 120, 128, 136, 144)

Rnd 22(29, 31, 32, 34, 35): hdc in each st around [104](112, 120, 128, 136, 144)

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern Image 6

Hem

  • The hem is made in the same manner as the collar, except it is a few stitches taller
  • You will pick up right where you left off on the body, without fastening off

Start the hem by chaining 10

Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and next 8 st [9]

Row 2: sl st in next 2 st on hem from Rnd 22(29, 31, 32, 34, 35) above, ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to the bottom edge of the hem [9]

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to Rnd 22(29, 31, 32, 34, 35) [9]

Row 4+: repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around hem

Join first and last row of hem in same manner as joining collar. Fasten off. Weave in end.

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern Image 10

Sleeves:

  • The sleeves are made in continuous rounds – do not turn at the end of each round.
  • To adjust the length of the sleeve, add or remove rows prior to decreasing before the cuff is made

Rejoin yarn at the armpit of one of the arm holes. Secure with a slip stitch.

Rnd 1-40(40, 44, 44, 48, 48): hdc in each st around [48](48, 56, 56, 64, 64)

Rnd 41(41, 45, 45, 49, 49): hdc dec around [24](24, 28, 28, 32, 32)

Do not fasten off – you’ll continue straight away to finish the cuffs…

Cuffs

  • The cuffs are constructed in the exact same way as the hem – crocheting it directly onto the last round of the sleeve

Start the cuff by chaining 10

Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and next 8 st [9]

Row 2: sl st in next 2 st on sleeve from Rnd 41(41, 45, 45 49, 49) above, ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to the bottom edge of the hem [9]

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to Rnd 41(41, 45, 45 49, 49) [9]

Row 4+: repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around cuff

Join first and last row of cuff in same manner as joining hem. Fasten off. Weave in end.

Congratulations! You’re about to slip into what might end up being your new favorite go-to sweater!

And remember, you can always pick up a copy of the printable, ad-free version of this Mt Rainer Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern from my Etsy shop here! Thank you for crocheting with me!

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern Image 8

Want more free crochet patterns? Check these out!

Yeti Sherpa Jacket Crochet Pattern Featured Image

Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Free Crochet Pattern

The Pacific Northwest has my heart and soul. I feel super fortunate to have been born and raised here. One of my absolute favorite things about the great PNW is that we legitimately get all 4 seasons – especially over here in Spokane. After growing up in Bellingham, I’ll admit that my first Spokane winter was a bit of a shock. Even though I grew up skiing on Mt. Baker and I had NO IDEA there was snow like THIS… COLD, light, deep, POWDER. On the west side the snow is wet and heavy, so skiing the Eastern Washington mountains was SUCH a treat. I’ve been hooked ever since. Inspired by the COLD snowy winters of Spokane comes this Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Free Crochet Pattern! Deliciously soft (like next to skin approved!) and legitimately warm (like 30 degrees F outside approved!), this jacket is perfect for cozying up in on a chilly winter day.

I used Lion Brand Yarns Go for Fleece Sherpa yarn. I’ll be honest – I was skeptical at first because at first look you think, “that looks like a shedding disaster”. But I was 100% wrong. This fluffy, shaggy yarn doesn’t shed at all – AT ALL. So don’t be deterred! I will mention, however, that you should be prepared for the fact that you cannot see your stitches. The yarn is so textured that you have to feel for your stitches. But don’t let that scare you – the yarn is jumbo and you use a big, size 15.00mm hook so you have plenty of room to feel for the stitches. You can do it!

I’ll jump right in to the free pattern!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the full, printable, ad-free pattern of the Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket with lots of helpful pictures and additional tips on my Etsy shop here!

Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Photo 2

Gauge:

4”x4” = 6 stitches x 3 rows (1.5 stitches = 1″ / 1 row = 1.3″)

I encourage you to make a small rectangle swatch to be sure your gauge is correct. It’s also a good idea to measure now and again and try on the jacket as you go along. This will ensure it will fit right when it’s done!

Sizing:

This pattern is written in size XS with size S, M, L, XL, 2XL following in parenthesis. The size can be easily modified by taking your measurements and adjusting the number of chains or rows. Use this sizing information or the gauge above to determine your custom measurements. The model pictured is wearing size XS with a bust of 34″.

Length (shoulder to hem):

XS: 22″
S: 24.75″
M: 27.25″
L: 30″
XL: 32.5″
2XL: 34″

Bust:

XS: 36″
S: 40″
M: 44″
L: 48″
XL: 52″
2XL: 56″

Sleeve Length:

XS: 22″
S: 22″
M: 23.5″
L: 23.5″
XL: 24.75″
2XL: 24.75″

Free Crochet Pattern for the Yeti Sherpa Hooded Jacket

Materials you will need:

  • Lion Brand Yarns “Go For Fleece Sherpa”
    • Pearl Grey – x7(7, 9, 9, 11, 11) 623(623, 801, 801, 979, 979) yards
  • Crochet Hook Size: 15.00 mm / US Q-19
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Stitch Markers
  • Scissors
  • Measuring Tape
  • 4-6 large buttons (optional)

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
sk – skip
hk – hook
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
dc2tog – double crochet 2 together (decrease)
[…] – number of stitches in row/round
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

The Pattern

Back panel:

Front & back panel notes:

  • The front & back panels are worked in rows, turning at the end of each row
  • The turning chain counts as a stitch
  • There is no right or wrong side
  • You cannot see your stitches when using this textured yarn – you have to feel for them. As such, I recommend counting your stitches after every few rows to be sure you haven’t accidentally added one or left one out. You might also want to place a stitch marker in the top loop of your turning chain so it’s easier to find on your way back down the row. Remember, the turning chain counts as a stitch!
  • Feel free to adjust the size of the panels to best match your body. Use the gauge and the size chart guide above to determine measurements. By doing this, it’s super easy to adjust the size of this Yeti Sherpa Jacket Free Crochet Pattern to fit you perfectly.
Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Photo 5

Start by chaining 29(32, 35, 38, 41, 44)

Row 1: sk 2 ch from hk, dc in each st across [27](30, 33, 36, 39, 42)

Row 2-17(19, 21, 23, 25, 27): turn, ch 2, sk first st, dc in each st across [27](30, 33, 36, 39, 42)

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Photo 4

Front Panels:

Start by chaining 14(17, 20, 23, 26, 29)

Row 1: sk 2 ch from hk, dc in each st across [12](15, 18, 21, 24, 27)

Row 2-17(19, 21, 23, 25, 27): turn, ch 2, sk first st, dc in each st across [12](15, 18, 21, 24, 27)

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Photo 6

Hood:

  • The hood is made by crocheting a rectangle in turning rows, just like the jacket panels and then folding it in half, seaming it, and sewing it onto the jacket.
  • One size hood for all jacket sizes

Start by chaining 32

Row 1: sk 2 ch from hk, dc in each st across [30]

Row 2-12: turn, ch 2, sk first st, dc in each st across [30]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming along one edge.

You’re almost done making your Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Free Crochet Pattern! Now, just assembly and seaming left…

Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Photo 1

Assembly & Seaming

  • The back panel, front panels and hood will be assembled together first. Then, the sleeves will be crocheted directly onto the jacket.
  • I recommend using the mattress stitch to seam pieces together, but you can use whichever method you prefer. Just remember to be sure you are grabbing two loops over the tapestry needle when you seam together to ensure a nice strong seam.

Start by seaming the hood:

Fold the hood rectangle in half with the ends of the rows together, laying horizontally (hamburger style). Using the long tail, seam together back along the last row you crocheted. If you want a more rounded tip on your hood, cut in a couple inches from the end of the fold and crochet through the hood diagonally back and forth a couple times. Fasten off. Keep hood turned inside out for seaming onto jacket.

Now, lay the front panels on top of the back panel. Technically, there is no right or wrong side, so just choose which side you want to be the outside and make sure those sides are facing in. You will seam everything together and then turn the jacket right-side-out afterwards.

Next, seam up the sides:

Place a stitch marker to mark the arm holes. Allow 5(5, 6, 6, 7, 7) rows from the top to remain open for the arm holes. Beginning at the bottom of the panels, seam each side up towards the armpits, stopping at the stitch marker. Repeat with the other side.

Next, seam along the shoulders:

Work from the outside in, towards the neck. Seam together only about 2/3 of the way in towards the neck – saving room to add on the hood. Do this on both sides/shoulders. Fasten off.

Finally, seam the hood onto the jacket:

Be sure the hood is still inside-out. Line the hood up along the top of the jacket. The center of the neck of the hood should be lined up at the exact center of the back panel. The seam of the hood will then extend out along the back of the neck, around the top of the open portion of the front panels (the portion of the shoulder that you did not seam completely onto the back panel) and down along a short portion of the front of the front panels. Use stitch markers to line up the hood in the way it is described here. Then, seam the hood onto the jacket.

Turn the jacket right-side-out. Lastly, sc a row around the border of the opening, starting at the front left corner, up around the hood and ending on the other bottom corner. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

Sew on the buttons: space buttons as desired (I spaced them by 3 rows in between) and sew them securely on. To fasten, simply slip them in between 2 double crochet stitches on the opposite side.

You’re done! Wrap yourself up in your cozy Yeti Sherpa Jacket Free Crochet Pattern and let me know how it went for you!

And remember, you can always pick up a copy of the printable, ad-free copy of this Yeti Sherpa Jacket Crochet Pattern from my Etsy shop here! Your support means so much to me and allows me to continue to provide you with free crochet patterns and resources, so thank you!

Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Photo 7

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