Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern – Cinnamon the Grizzly Bear

Cinnamon the grizzly bear is the most uncommon and special teddy bear crochet pattern you’ll find! Hailing from the Canadian Rocky Mountains, Cinnamon cozies up in his scarf, mittens and hat to keep him warm before winter comes. Bring him to life in this free teddy bear crochet pattern!

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin

Years back, my husband and I lived for several months in the beautiful Calgary, British Columbia, Canada. During our time there we backpacked over 100 miles in the Canadian Rocky Mountain backcountry just west of Calgary. And I’m telling you first-hand, “lions and tigers and BEARS, OH MY” is REAL…at least the BEARS part. I have never seen so many bears in my life. There was ONE day I counted no less than 8 bears.

But one bear in-particular stands out in my memory – a HUGE male grizzly bear. He was at least 7 feet long. He was the exact color of Cinnamon. And he was gorgeous. Here’s an actual photo of him that we took:

So in honor of this grand and respected creature, Cinnamon the grizzly teddy bear is born. Although he might not be as powerful and intimidating as his real-life counterpart, Cinnamon highlights the cute and cuddly side of these awesome animals.

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the 11-page PDF printable, ad-free pattern of Cinnamon the Grizzly on my Etsy shop here.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Preview Image

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Notes & Tips:

This teddy bear free crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! The printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with LOTS of in-the-making photos (40 of them!) for each step of the way as well.

Size & Gauge:

Size: Cinnamon will end up being 10″ tall.

Gauge: 4”x4” of single crochet = 28 stitches x 30 rows. Ultimately with toys, gauge doesn’t matter. It won’t have to fit someone’s body or a specific space. My patterns will include the size of the finished toy based on the yarn and hook I use. But if you want it smaller or bigger, just use a bigger yarn and hook! Just remember, when crocheting toys, crochet tightly and choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn size recommends in order to avoid holes between each stitch where the stuffing will show through.

Top 10 under $10 Sustainable Yarns Image Stylecraft naturals Organic Cotton DK Yarn

Yarn & Stuffing:

Yarn: Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I use 100% organic cotton yarn because I make these toys for my kids and need them to be functional. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and relatively inflexible so the toys don’t stretch and sag – even after being thrown across the house, down the stairs and adventured through every part of the garden!

It’s very important for me to use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn so I feel good about the impact I’m making on the environment with my craft. This is why I choose organic cotton versus conventional cotton.

Stuffing: Stuff more than you think you should. Not enough for the stitches to stretch and show holes, but enough to make the toy stiff and able to withstand the rough trials of toy life. The filling will compress a bit over time. I encourage you to use an alternative to poly-fill (unless it’s recycled!). Try using leftover yarn scraps and snippets or old non-donate-able clothes and materials cut into strips.

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, sold, distributed or translated without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer. Thank you for your respectfulness!

Your Guide to Eco-Friendly and Sustainable Crochet Image Heart Yarn
This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my blog and small business which allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

Materials you will need for this crochet pattern:

Abbreviations used in the teddy bear free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
hk – hook
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
fhdc – foundation half double crochet
fdc – foundation double crochet
DcBo – double crochet bobble stitch
BLO – back loop only
inc – increase
dec – decrease
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times
[…] – number of stitches in row/round

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image bare

The Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern:

Notes:

  • Cinnamon and his parts are worked in continuous rounds – do not join after rounds unless otherwise stated

Ears – make 2:

Use the brown yarn.

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-6: sc in each st around [12]

Fasten with a sl st. Snip, leaving a long tail for sewing on.

Snout:

The snout is worked in continuous rounds – do not join rounds.

Use the brown yarn.

Rnd 1: st 5 in a magic circle [5]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [10]

Rnd 3: BLO sc in each at around [10]

Rnd 4: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 8 st [12]

Rnd 5: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 9 st [13]

Rnd 6: sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 9 st [14]

Rnd 7: sc in next 3 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 9 st [16]

Rnd 8: sc in next 4 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 10 st [18]

Rnd 9: sc in next 5 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 11 st [20]

Fasten with a sl st. Snip, leaving a long tail for sewing on.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image 1

EMBROIDER THE NOSE & MOUTH:

NOSE: Using black DK weight yarn doubled up through a tapestry needle, begin your embroidery of the the nose by inserting your needle through the middle of the magic circle inside to outside. Insert it back to the inside through a stitch directly on the left of the nose between rounds 3 and 4. Repeat on the opposite side of the nose – you now have the bottom edge of the nose. Repeat threading your needle through the magic circle and back through stitches between rounds 3 and 4 all the way over the bridge of the nose. About half way through, switch to the opposite side and work my way back to the middle to be sure everything lines up properly.

MOUTH: Continue on with the mouth; after threading the needle out of the magic circle, insert the needle directly underneath the nose between rounds 4 and 5. Bring the needle back out between rounds 6 and 7 – 2 stitches back from the edge of the nose. Repeat on opposite side. Tie off on the inside of the nose and stuff in the tail ends.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image 2

HEAD & BODY:

The head and body are worked in continuous rounds – do not join rounds.

Use the brown yarn.

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 10-20: sc in each st around [54]

Rnd 21: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 22: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 23: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) x6 [36]

  • Stuff the snout and sew it to the head over rounds 14-22
  • Insert the safety eyes to the left and right of the snout between rounds 15 & 16
  • Flatten the ears and sew to the head over rounds 4-9 centered over the top of the head, using the snout as your guide for the center of the face

Rnd 24: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 25: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 26: sc in each st around [48]

Rnd 27: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 28-29: sc in each st around [54]

Rnd 30: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) x6 [60]

Stuff head.

Rnd 31-45: sc in each st around [60]

Rnd 46: (sc in next 8 st, dec in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 47: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 48: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 49: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) x6 [36]

Stuff body.

Split your work for the legs: there will be 15 stitches for each leg and 6 stitches in the gap (3 in front and 3 in back). Use stitch markers to mark these stitches, being sure to center them to the face of the bear.

If needed, make or remove a couple of sc to get to your starting point for the left leg. Your starting point will be at the back of the left leg, just to the right of the stitch marker. Join the back to the front by completing a single crochet (this is the first sc of round 50).

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image 3

LEGS:

LEFT LEG:

Rnd 50-57: sc in each st around [15]

Rnd 58: sc in next 5 st, dec in next st, sc in next 8 st [14]

Rnd 59: sc in next 3 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 7 st [12]

Rnd 60: sc in next 2 st, inc in next 4 st, sc in next 6 st [16]

Rnd 61: sc in next 5 st, inc in next 4 st, sc in next 7 st [20]

Rnd 62-63: sc in each st around [20]

Rnd 64: sc in next 2 st, (dec in next st, sc in next st) x6 [14]

Stuff leg & foot.

Rnd 65: dec in each st around [7]

Snip, leaving a tail for closing the circle. Using the yarn tail and a tapestry needle, weave the yarn through the front loop of each remaining 7 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring the yarn to the inside.

Finish stuffing the body.

RIGHT LEG:

Leaving a long starting tail, slip knot onto your hk and rejoin on the back side in the stitch to the left of the stitch marker, marking the second leg (3 stitches away from the left leg.

Rnd 50: sc in the next 15 st [15]

Rnd 51: join the front and back side by completing a sc, sc in the next 14 st [15]

Rnd 52-57: sc in each st around [15]

Rnd 58: sc in next 9 st, dec in next st, sc in next 4 st [14]

Rnd 59: sc in next 8 st, dec in next 2 st, sc in next 2 st [12]

Rnd 60: sc in next 7 st, inc in next 4 st , sc in next st [16]

Rnd 61: sc in next 9 st, inc in next 4 st, sc in next 3 st [20]

Rnd 62-63: sc in each st around [20]

Rnd 64: sc in next 2 st, (dec in next st, sc in next st) x6 [14]

Stuff leg & foot.

Rnd 65: dec in each st around [7]

Snip, leaving a tail for closing the circle. Using the yarn tail and a tapestry needle, weave the yarn through the front loop of each remaining 7 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring the yarn to the inside.

Finish stuffing body through the gap between legs. Using the long starting yarn tail from Rnd 50 of right leg, and a tapestry needle, sew closed the gap between the legs. Bring yarn to inside and snip.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image tail

ARMS:

The arms are worked in continuous rounds – do not join rounds.

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-18: sc in each st around [12]

Fasten with a sl st, leaving a long tail for sewing on. Stuff arms, leaving about a 1/2 inch to the top unstuffed, or else the arms won’t lay down – they’ll stick straight out. Sew the arms closed, and sew them to the sides of the body at round 24.

TAIL:

The tail is worked in continuous rounds.

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-5: sc in each st around [12]

Fasten with a sl st, leaving a long tail for sewing on. Stuff tail and sew to the back of the body, centered, over rounds 43-46.

SCARF:

For every round on the scarf, sl st to join each round and ch 1 before beginning the next round.

Start with off-white yarn

Rnd 1: fhdc 45, join into a ring with a sl st, ch 1 [45]

Rnd 2: hdc in each st around [45]

Switch to navy blue yarn.

Rnd 3-6: hdc in each st around [45]

Switch to off-white yarn.

Rnd 7-8: hdc in each st around [45]

Fasten off and weave in end.

Just a couple more accessories and your teddy bear free crochet pattern will be complete!

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image scarf

HAT:

Make a small, 1.5″ pom-pom with the blue yarn. If you need help, you will find a video tutorial on my website on how to make a pom-pom. You don’t need any additional tools, but a pom-pom maker is helpful.

Start with the blue yarn

Rnd 1: fdc 40, ch 1, turn [40]

Rnd 2: (fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st) around [40]

Switch to citronelle yarn

Rnd 3-4: hdc in each st around [40]

Switch to blue yarn

Rnd 5-6: hdc in each st around [40]

Switch to citronelle yarn

Rnd 7: hdc in next 11 st, ch 6, sk next 6 st, hdc in next 6 st, ch 6, sk next 6 st, hdc in next 11 st [40]

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image hat

Switch to blue yarn

Rnd 8: (hdc in next 6 st, dec hdc in next st) x5 [35]

Rnd 9: hdc in each st around [35]

Switch to citronelle yarn

Rnd 10: (hdc in next 5 st, dec hdc in next st) x5 [30]

Rnd 11: hdc in each st around [30]

Switch to blue yarn

Rnd 12: (hdc in next 4 st, dec hdc in next st) x5 [25]

Rnd 13: hdc in each st around [25]

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image accessories

Switch to citronelle

Rnd 14: (hdc in next 3 st, dec hdc in next st) x5 [20]

Rnd 15: hdc in each st around [20]

Sl st to next st. Snip leaving a long yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail in and out around each of the posts of rnd 15 (front to back under one, back to front under the next, etc, all the way around). Pull tail to close. Bring yarn to inside and fasten off.

Pull the yarn tails of the pom-pom through the center top hold of the hat. Grab hold of the yellow yarn tail from the hat, along with the 2 yarn tails from the pom-pom and knot them tightly on the inside of the hat, as close to the inside tip of the hat as possible. Knot it again.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image mitten

MITTENS:

Use the citronelle yarn

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: hdc inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-4: hdc in each st around [12]

Rnd 5: 5-DcBo in next st, hdc in next 11 st [12]

Rnd 6: hdc in each st around, sl st to join rnd, ch 1 [12]

Rnd 7: dc in each st around [12]

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image close up

You’re done! Finally, put on his cozy scarf, his hat and his little mittens. Look at Cinnamon! Isn’t he so cozy and cuddly?

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Image put together

You did it! Stop and admire your little teddy bear crochet masterpiece!

I would love to see your completed Cinnamon bears. Please post pictures on instagram and tag me @offthebeatenhook. Happy hooking!

Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern Resource Library Graphic

Did you love this teddy bear free crochet pattern? Want more free amigurumi crochet patterns? Check these out!

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 6

Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern – Jag the Sea Nettle

I grew up on the Pacific Ocean, so all things ocean and sea creatures are part of my soul. My son, although being raised inland, has the same fascination as I do. “Please make me a jellyfish next” he asked me. “ABSOLUTELY!” I replied, without a moment’s hesitation. I love it when he chooses things that I know I will love just as much as he does. And when I looked at the jellyfish upon completion, I knew it was just what we were looking for – charming, adorable, AND realistic. Then, when my son named her Jag, I fell in love. Her name couldn’t be more perfect. I hope you love this Jag the Jellyfish free crochet pattern as much as we do!

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin

Jag’s inspiration comes from the Pacific Sea Nettle – one of the commonly found types of jellyfish found in the Pacific Ocean. Sea Nettles are also found in the Atlantic Ocean (Atlantic Sea Nettle). Sea Nettles have a distinct fat arm (commonly mis-identified as a tentacle) dangling down in between a plethora of skinny tentacles that adorn the margin of their bell. I always try to find a balance between an inviting character and a realistic interpretation of the major identifying features of the animal. I really think I hit that mark with this jellyfish free crochet pattern. I hope you agree!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the 7-page PDF printable, ad-free pattern of Jag the Jellyfish on my Etsy shop here.

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Preview Image
This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my blog and small business which allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

General Notes:

This jellyfish free crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! The printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with LOTS of in-the-making photos for each step of the way as well.

Size & Gauge:

Size: Jag will end up being 21″ from top of head to tip of tentacle.

Gauge: 4”x4” of single crochet = 28 stitches x 30 rows. Ultimately with toys, gauge doesn’t matter. It won’t have to fit someone’s body or a specific space. My patterns will include the size of the finished toy based on the yarn and hook I use. But if you want it smaller or bigger, just use a bigger yarn and hook! Just remember, when crocheting toys, crochet tightly and choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn size recommends in order to avoid holes between each stitch where the stuffing will show through.

Top 10 under $10 Sustainable Yarns Image Stylecraft naturals Organic Cotton DK Yarn

Yarn & Stuffing:

Yarn: Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I use 100% organic cotton yarn because I make these toys for my kids and need them to be functional. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and relatively inflexible so the toys don’t stretch and sag – even after being thrown across the house, down the stairs and adventured through every part of the garden!

It’s very important for me to use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn so I feel good about the impact I’m making on the environment with my craft. This is why I choose organic cotton versus conventional cotton.

Stuffing: Stuff more than you think you should. Not enough for the stitches to stretch and show holes, but enough to make the toy stiff and able to withstand the rough trials of toy life. The filling will compress a bit over time. I encourage you to use an alternative to poly-fill (unless it’s recycled!). Try using leftover yarn scraps and snippets or old non-donate-able clothes and materials cut into strips.

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, sold, distributed or translated without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer. Thank you for your respectfulness!

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 6

Materials you will need:

Abbreviations used in the jellyfish free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
hk – hook
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
fsc – foundation single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
tc – treble crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times
[…] – number of stitches in row/round

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 4

The Pattern

Notes:

  • Jag is worked from the bell (head) down
  • The bell and the tentacles are all worked in one piece. The big center arm is worked separately and sewn on.
  • Round 12 & round 24 call for a “long single crochet”. Here are the “Long single crochet” instructions. You can also reference PHOTOS 02-05 (in the printable pattern): complete a single crochet, but rather than inserting your hook into the next st of the current row, you will insert your hook into the stitch a few rows immediately below the stitch and complete the single crochet over top the next one of the row (3 or 4 rows below as specified in the pattern below)

BELL:

Start with light blue yarn

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 11: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) x6 [66]

Switch to dark blue yarn

Rnd 12: (long sc in next st skipping 3 rows, sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) x6 [72]

Rnd 13: (sc in next 11 st, inc in next st) x6 [78]

Rnd 14: (sc in next 12 st, inc in next st) x6 [84]

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 2

Switch to yellow yarn

Rnd 15-16: sc in each st around [84]

Switch to light blue yarn

Rnd 17-23: sc in each st around.

Switch to yellow yarn

Rnd 24: (sc in next 5, long sc in next st skipping 4 rows) x14 [84]

Rnd 25: sc in each st around [84]

Rnd 26: (sc in next 12 st, dec in next st) x6 [78]

Rnd 27: (sc in next 11 st, dec in next st) x6 [72]

Rnd 28: FLO (sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, tc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next st) x9 [72]

Switch to dark blue yarn (do not snip yellow – you will pick it up again in round 29)

Rnd 29: (sc in the next 7, sl st in the next st) x9 [72]

Invisible fasten and bring yarn to inside: Remove your hook from the loop and insert it back to front (inside to outside) through the next stitch, grap your loop and pull it to the inside. Snip the blue, and pull the yarn end through the loop and pull tightly to close. SEE “INVISIBLE FASTEN” (in the printable pattern)

Switch back to yellow: pick up yellow where you left off after round 28. For round 30, You’ll be working in the BACK LOOP ONLY of round 28 – the loop that you didn’t use when you were working in the FRONT LOOP ONLY during round 28.

Rnd 30: BLO of Rnd 28 (sc in the next 10, dec in the next st) x6 [66]

Insert safety eyes between rounds 25 & 26, spaced apart by 15 stitches. Embroider on 3 eyelashes for each eye branching out from the top corners of the eyes.

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 3

TENTACLES

Rnd 31: (sc in the next st, ch 100, sl st in each back bump down the chain back to the head, sc in the next 4 st, ch 100, sl st in each back bump down the chain back to the head, sc in the next 4 st, dec in the next st) x6 [60]

Switch to light blue yarn

Rnd 32: (sc in next 8 st, dec in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 33: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 34: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 35: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 36: (sc in next 4 st, dec in next st) x6 [30]

Start to stuff head

Rnd 37: (sc in next 3 st, dec in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 38: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x6 [18]

Finish stuffing head

Rnd 39: (sc in next st, dec in next st) x6 [12]

Rnd 40:(sc in the next st, dec in the next st) x6 [6]

Snip, leaving a tail. Using a tapestry needle and the yarn tail, weave the yarn through the front loop of each of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tightly to close.

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 5

CENTER ARM:

Begin with light blue yarn

Row 1: FDC 75, ch 1, turn [75]

Row 2: 3 sc in the next 30 st, 3 hdc in the next 25 st, 3 dc in the next 20 st, ch 1, turn [225]

Row 3: 3 dc in the next 50 st, 3 hdc in the next 35 st, 2 sc in the next 140 (rest of row), ch 1, turn [535]

Switch to dark blue yarn

Row 4 (contrast border): sc in the next 100 st, switch to light blue yarn, 2 hdc in the next 40, 2 dc in the next 395 (to end of row), ch 1, turn [970]

Switch back to dark blue yarn

Row 5: sc in each st until you meet back up with the row of dark blue you made in Row 4

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Just one more step and you’ll have completed this jellyfish free crochet pattern!

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Image 1

ATTACH THE ARM:

Using a tapestry needle and a length of light blue yarn, sew the arm onto the center of the underside of the bell of the jellyfish. You’ll want to weave the yarn in and out several times in order to secure part of the arm to the underside of the jellyfish. The arm is heavy and if you don’t secure it well, it will dangle precariously.

You’ll use a short section of the fattest part of the arm and sew it up under the jellyfish. Pull the yarn to the inside.

You did it! Stop and admire your skilllz!

I would love to see your completed jellyfish. Please post pictures on instagram and tag me @offthebeatenhook. Cheers!

Jag the Jellyfish Free Crochet Pattern Resource Library Graphic

Did you love this jellyfish free crochet pattern? Want more free amigurumi crochet patterns? Check these out!

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern

The thing that makes me the most jealous about Narwhals is they get to eat fresh halibut, cod, and shrimp every day. In fact that’s probably the ONLY thing that makes me jealous of Narwhals. Living most of my life under a thick sheet of ice just doesn’t sound pleasant. Nonetheless, the unicorns of the sea are beautiful and intriguing. And I hope I do them justice with my Filip the Narwhal free crochet pattern.

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the printable, ad-free pattern of Filip the Narwhal on my Etsy shop here.

Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Preview Image
This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects the cost to you. These partnerships help me support my blog and small business which allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

General Notes:

This narwhal free crochet pattern is written in US terms. If needed, you can find a handy term conversion chart right here in my Resource Library. I recommend giving the pattern a read-through before you begin so you can visualize the big picture and consider any specific notes for help along the way! The printable pattern in my Etsy shop comes with LOTS of in-the-making photos for each step of the way as well.

Size & Gauge:

Size: Filip will end up being 20″ from tail to tusk & 4.5″ wide.

Gauge: 4”x4” of single crochet = 28 stitches x 30 rows. Ultimately with toys, gauge doesn’t matter. It won’t have to fit someone’s body or a specific space. My patterns will include the size of the finished toy based on the yarn and hook I use. But if you want it smaller or bigger, just use a bigger yarn and hook! Just remember, when crocheting toys, crochet tightly and choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn size recommends in order to avoid holes between each stitch where the stuffing will show through.

Yarn & Stuffing:

Yarn: Take your choice of yarn! Choose colors that bring you joy and fibers that feel good between your fingers. I use 100% organic cotton yarn because I make these toys for my kids and need them to be functional. Cotton is natural, washable, soft, and relatively inflexible so the toys don’t stretch and sag – even after being thrown across the house, down the stairs and adventured through every part of the garden!

It’s very important for me to use only sustainable and eco-friendly yarn so I feel good about the impact I’m making on the environment with my craft. This is why I choose organic cotton versus conventional cotton.

Stuffing: Stuff more than you think you should. Not enough for the stitches to stretch and show holes, but enough to make the toy stiff and able to withstand the rough trials of toy life. The filling will compress a bit over time. I encourage you to use an alternative to poly-fill (unless it’s recycled!). Try using leftover yarn scraps and snippets or old non-donate-able clothes and materials cut into strips.

The Legal Stuff:

This pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, sold, distributed or translated without authorization. You can sell your finished items provided that you credit Off the Beaten Hook as the designer. Thank you for your respectfulness!

Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin

Materials you will need:

Abbreviations used in the narwhal free crochet pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
sc – single crochet
dec – decrease
inc – increase
[…] – number of stitches in row
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image Birdseye Completed

The Pattern

Notes:

  • the head and body are crocheted in continuous rounds – do not join
  • the head and body use the denim colored yarn

Head & Body:

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6] When you pull to close the magic circle, first insert your dowel through the circle. You don’t want to pull it all the way tight to close or the dowel will be impossible to insert later.

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 8-17: sc in each st around [42]

Rnd 18: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 19: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 20-21: sc in each st around [54]

Rnd 22: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 23-24: sc in each st around [60]

Rnd 25: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) x6 [66]

Insert safety eyes between rounds 15 & 16, spaced over the top of the head by 39 st (bottom of head will have 27 st in between eyes)

Rnd 26-45: sc in each st around [66] START TO STUFF

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image rounds

Rnd 46: (sc in next 9 st, dec in next st) x6 [60]

Rnd 47-51: sc in each st around [60]

Rnd 52: (sc in next 8 st, dec in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 53-57: sc in each st around [54]

Rnd 58: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 59-61: sc in each st around [48]

Rnd 62: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 63-65: sc in each st around [42]

Rnd 66: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 67-69: sc in each st around [36] STUFF

Rnd 70: (sc in next 4 st, dec in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 71-73: sc in each st around [30]

Rnd 74: (sc in next 3 st, dec in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 75-76: sc in each st around [24]

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image continuous rounds

Rnd 77: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 78-79: sc in each st around [18]

Rnd 80: (sc in next st, dec in next st) x6 [12]

Rnd 81: sc in each st around [12] STUFF

Rnd 82: dec in each st around [6]

Fins – make 2

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-5: sc in each st around [12]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x3 [9]

Rnd 7-9: sc in each st around [9]

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image fins

Tail – make 2

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: sc in each st around [6]

Rnd 3: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 5: sc in each st around [18]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 7-10: sc in each st around [24]

Rnd 11: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 12-14: sc in each st around [18]

Rnd 15: (sc in next st, dec in next st) x6 [12]

Rnd 16: sc in each st around [12]

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image tail

Tusk

Rnd 1: st 4 in a magic circle [4]

Rnd 2: sc in each st around [4]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x2 [6]

Rnd 4: sc in each st around [6]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x2 [8]

Rnd 6-11: sc in each st around [8]

Rnd 12: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x2 [10]

Rnd 13-42*: sc in each st around [10]

*The tusk will be approximately 7″ long if you’d rather just flow with it for a while and measure, versus counting rows. Alternatively if you want to count stitches, you’ll make 300 stitches between rounds 13-42. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

You’re done with all the components of Filip the Narwhal free crochet pattern. Now all you have to do is put it all together.

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image tusk

Assembly:

Assemble the narwhal:

  • Sew the tail pieces to the sides of the body over rounds 78-82, using the eyes as a centering point.
  • Sew the fins to the sides of the body over rounds 29-32, spaced across the tummy by 20 stitches.
  • Cut your dowel to the length of the narwhal body (approx. 12″)
Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image tusk and dowel
  • Slide the tusk over one end of the dowel (I didn’t have to stuff my tusk because the dowel was the same width as the tusk. But, if your dowel is skinnier than the tusk, you may want to consider adding some stuffing)
  • Push the other side of the dowel into the center of the nose on the body until the end of the tusk meets up with the nose. You’ll have to wiggle and push and work your way through the magic circle in the nose and through the dense stuffing.
  • Use a tapestry needing and the yarn tail of the tusk to sew the tusk to the body over round 2, threading the needle through the inside loop of a stitch on the tusk and one loop of a stitch on round 2. Repeat all the way around with each of the 12 stitches. Pull the yarn tail back and forth under the tusk a couple times to secure the yarn and snip.
Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Image Tusk Sewn on

Admire your crochet skills. You did it! I’d love to see your finished narwhal free crochet pattern results! Please tag me on instagram @offthebeatenhook with pictures!

Filip the Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern Resource Library Graphic

Want more free amigurumi crochet patterns? Check these out!