My son Benjamin is the one who dictates for me what my next amigurumi character is going to be. I love that. Takes the decision making off me, right!? So, up next was supposed to be a Pterodactyl – I was excited because I’ve never attempted a dinosaur before! But, at the last minute he changed his mind to mermaid! The thought of the potential bright fun colors versus the dominantly brown pterodactyl was exciting. I also love that he has no care in the world over the little boy/little girl toy stereotypes. When I finished this Luna the Mermaid free crochet pattern (while he was out of town for the weekend), he was THRILLED!

Yes, I can admit it. I do put a level of pressure on myself for his valuable 4-year-old approval rating of these toys. I do make these toys for him (and his soon-to-come sister), after all!

This pattern is supported by ads on my blog. Alternatively, can purchase the printable, ad-free pattern on the Etsy shop here.

Luna’s pattern is a beautiful 9- page PDF document with detailed instructions and accompanied by LOTS of clear pictures to help you along the way. Find the Luna the Mermaid Amigurumi Crochet Pattern here!

Materials you will need:

– DK/light worsted weight yarn / 100% cotton
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK – Vanilla Cream
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK – Slate Green
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK – Pansy Purple
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK – Lipstick Pink
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK – Melon Sorbet
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK – Pure Black
Yarn Bee Dream Spun Chunky – Tuscany (hair)
– 3.00 mm crochet hook
– Stuffing
– 10 mm safety eyes
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Stitch markers

Abbreviations used on the pattern:

ch (chain)
st (stitch)
sc (single crochet)
hdc (half double crochet)
inc (increase: 2 single crochets in one stitch)
dec (decrease: 2 stitches together)
FLO (front loop only)
BLO (back loop only)
DcBo (double crochet bobble stitch)
sl st (slip stitch)
fsc (chainless foundation single crochet)
(…)x (repeat instructions indicated number of times)
[…] total number of stitches in round

The Pattern

Head & Shoulders

The head and torso will be worked in a continuous round using the tan yarn.

Rnd 1: st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2: inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Rnd 10-17: sc in each st around [54]

Rnd 18: (sc in next 7 st, dec in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 19: (sc in next 6 st, dec in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 20: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 21: (sc in next 4 st, dec in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 22: (sc in next 3 st, dec in next st) x6 [24]

Insert safety eyes between rounds 14 & 15, spaced apart by 10 stitches. Embroider nose between rows 16& 17 – centered between eyes. Embroider eyelashes. Stuff head.

Rnd 23: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 24: (sc in next st, dec in next st) x6 [12]

Rnd 25-26: sc in each st around [12]

Rnd 27: (sc in next st, inc in next st) x6 [18]

Rnd 28: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) x6 [24]

Rnd 29: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) x6 [30]

Rnd 30: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) x6 [36]

Rnd 31: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) x6 [42]

Rnd 32: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) x6 [48]

Rnd 33: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) x6 [54]

Stuff neck firmly. Her hair will be heavy and if you don’t stuff firmly, her head will bobble.

You will now divide round 33 into what will become the arms and the torso, below the shoulders. Using stitch markers, allow 10 stitches for each of the arms. The torso will be left with 34 stitches.

Body & Tail

The body will be worked in a continuous round beginning with the tan yarn for the torso and eventually changing to green & purple for the tail.

Rnd 34: sc in next 7 st. Skipping the right arm hole that you created using the stitch markers, join back to front torso by creating a sc to join them. Sc in the next 16 st, join front to back by creating a sc to join them (again, skipping the left arm hole). Sc in the next 9 st. [34]

Rnd 35: sc in each st around [34]

Rnd 36: (dec in next st, sc in next 4 st) x5, sc in next 2 st [28]

Rnd 37: sc in next 4 st, dec in next st, sc in next st, dec in next st, sc in next 8 st, dec in next st, sc in next st, dec in next st, sc in next 6 st [24]

Rnd 38: sc in next 3 st, dec in next st, sc in next st, dec in next st, sc in next 7 st, dec in next st, sc in next st, dec in next st, sc in next 4 st [20]

Rnd 39-41: sc in each st around [20]

Rnd 42: sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 6 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st [24]

Rnd 43: sc in each st around [24]

Switch to green yarn

Rnd 44: sc in next 6 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st [28]

Rnd 45: FLO make 3 hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc, ch 2 [84]

Rnd 46: BLO of rnd 44 (free loop on the inside of ruffles created in rnd 45), sc in next 4 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) x2, inc in next st, sc in next 10 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) x2, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st [34]

Rnd 47: sc in each st around [34]

Rnd 48: sc in next 4 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) x2, inc in next st, sc in next 10 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) x2, inc in next st, sc in next 6 st [40]

Rnd 49: sc in each st around [40]

Switch to purple yarn

Rnd 50: sc in each st around [40]

Rnd 51: FLO make 3 hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc, ch 2 [120]

Rnd 52: BLO of rnd 50 (free loop on the inside of ruffles created in rnd 51), sc in each st around [40]

Rnd 53: sc in next 6 st, dec in next st, sc in next st, dec in next st, sc in next 18 st, dec in next st, sc in next st, dec in next st, sc in next 6 st [36]

Rnd 54: sc in each st around [36]

Rnd 55: sc in next 6 st, dec in next st, sc in next st, dec in next st, sc in next 16 st, dec in next st, sc in next st, dec in next st, sc in next 6 st [32]

Switch to green yarn

Rnd 56: sc in each st around [32]

Rnd 57: FLO make 3 hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc, ch 2 [96]

Rnd 58: BLO of Rnd 56 (free loop on the inside of ruffles created in rnd 57), sc in each st around [32] photo 12

Stuff torso and tail up to this point.

Rnd 59: sc in next 4 st, dec in next st, sc in next st, dec in next st, sc in next 12 st, dec in next st, sc in next st, dec in next st, sc in next 6 st [28]

Rnd 60-61: sc in each st around [28]

Rnd 62: sc in next 4 st, dec in next st, sc in next st, dec in next st, sc in next 10 st, dec in next st, sc in next st, dec in next st sc in next 4 st [24]

Rnd 63-65: sc in each st around [24]

Rnd 66: sc in next 4 st, dec in next st, sc in next st, dec in next st, sc in next 6 st, dec in next st, sc in next st, dec in next st, sc in next 4 st [20]

Rnd 67-69: sc in each st around [20]

Rnd 70: sc in next 4 st, dec in next st, sc in next 8 st, dec in next st, sc in next 4 st [18]

Rnd 71-72: sc in each st around [18]

Rnd 73: sc in next 4 st, dec in next st, sc in next 6 st, dec in next st, sc in next st [16]

Rnd 74-75: sc in each st around [16]

Rnd 76: sc in next 3 st, dec in next st, sc in next 6 st, dec in next st, sc in next 3 st [14]

Rnd 77-78: sc in each st around [14]

Stuff tail

Rnd 79: (sc in next 5 st, dec in next st) x2 [12]

Rnd 80: sc in each st around [12]

Rnd 81: (sc in next 4 st, dec in next st) x2 [10]

Rnd 82: sc in each st around [10]

Stuff more

Rnd 83: (sc in next 3 st, dec in next st) x2 [8]

Rnd 84: sc in each st around [8]

Rnd 85: (sc in next 2 st, dec in next st) x2 [6]

Rnd 86: sc in each st around [6]

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing closed. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn through the front loop of remaining 6 stitches and pull tightly to close. Weave in end.

Arms

Using the tan yarn, slip knot onto your hook and rejoin yarn on back of first arm by creating a sc.

Rnd 1-6: sc in each st around [10]

Rnd 7: dec in next st, sc in next 8 st [9]

Stuff lightly. Don’t stuff shoulder or the arms will stick straight out.

Rnd 8-9: sc in each st around [9]

Rnd 10: dec in next st, sc in next 7 st [8]

Rnd 11: sc in each st around [8]

Rnd 12: dec in next st, sc in next 6 st [7]

Rnd 13: sc in next 5 st, 3DcBo in next st, sc in next st [7]

Rnd 14-15: sc in each st around [7]

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing closed. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn through the front loop of remaining 7 stitches and pull tightly to close. Weave in end. Repeat these instructions for second arm.

Fins

The fins will be crocheted in rows using green, purple, orange and pink. The color of each row will be indicated for each as follows:

G=Green, PU=Purple, O=Orange, PI=Pink. Remember to change colors appropriately before each new color begins.

Row 1: G ch 21, sc in 2nd back bump from hook and in each back bump thereafter, ch 1, turn [20]

Row 2: PU BLO sc in next 17 st, ch 1, turn [17] (leave remaining 3 st unworked)

Row 3: PU sc in next 15 st, dec in next st, ch 1, turn [16]

Row 4: O BLO sc in next 14, ch 1, turn [14]

Row 5: O sc in next 12 st, dec in next st, ch 1, turn [14]

Row 6: PI BLO sc in next 11 st, ch 1, turn [11]

Row 7: PI sc in next 9 st, dec in next st, ch 1, turn [10]

Row 8: GR BLO sc in next 8, ch 1, turn [8]

Row 9: GR sc in next 6 st, dec in next st, ch 1, turn [7]

Row 10: PU BLO sc in next 7 st, ch 4, turn

Row 11: PU sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 ch, sc in next 7 st along green

Row 12: GR BLO sc in next 7 st, ch 1, turn [7]

Row 13: GR sc in next 6 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [8]

Row 14: PI BLO sc in next 8 st, ch 3, turn [8]

Row 15: PI sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, sc in next 7 st, inc in last st, ch 1, turn [11]

Row 16: O BLO sc in next 11 st, ch 3, turn [11]

Row 17: O sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, sc in next 10 st, inc in last st, ch 1, turn [14]

Row 18: PU BLO sc in next 14 st, ch 3, turn [14]

Row 19: PU sc in 2nd ch from hook and next ch, sc in next 13 st, inc in last st, ch 1, turn [17]

Row 20: GR BLO sc in next 17 st, ch 3, turn [17]

Row 21: GR sc in 2nd ch from hook, and next ch, sc in next 16 st, inc in last st, [20]

Do not cut or fasten off yet. Tie off stray ends. Pick up green again, chain 1 and sc along the edge with loose ends, incorporating them into the row as you go. This way, you won’t have to weave in all those ends! This row will give you a nice line of sc for easier sewing onto the tail. Now, fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew fin to tip of tail, curving it in a “v” shape down and around the tip.

FYI – because of where the last row of the fin ends, the final border row of sc (the one that tucks in the stray ends) will end up having the back of the row facing the front of the fin. So, make sure you tuck those ends away neatly or they’ll show through!

Crop Top

The crop top will be crocheted in rows using the pink yarn.

Row 1: ch 31, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch thereafter, ch 1, turn [30]

Row 2: hdc in each st across, ch 1, turn [30]

Row 3: hdc in next 4 st, ch 10, skip 5, hdc in next 11 st, ch 1, turn

Row 4: skip one st, hdc in next 10 st, sc in next 9 st (along chain), sl st to next st, ch 1, turn

Row 5: make 3 hdc in each of the next 19 st (along shoulder strap and front of top), sc in next 8 st [30]

Fasten off. Put on the halter top and sew closed up the back.

Starfish Barrett

Use pink yarn

Rnd 1: st 10 in a magic circle

Rnd 2: (sl st in next st, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and 2 ch thereafter, sl st to the next st on magic circle) x5

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to use to tie into hair.

Cheeks – make 2

Use light pink yarn. St 6 in a magic circle. Fasten with a sl st. Cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew onto face just below and back from the eyes.

Hair

Cut lengths of yarn into 12-18″ each. Fold each piece in half. Insert hook under POST of a stitch on the head and snatch the folded end of the piece of yarn and pull the loop through by about 2 inches. Then, insert the two dangly ends of the piece of hair through the loop and pull tightly to secure. Continue to do this all over the head as desired. Because I used extra bulky yarn, I skipped every other stitch on the head. Cut and trim as desired. The hair along the forehead runs along round 8 for 6 pieces of hair and then begins to slant down around her temples and cheeks. Under the back/neck, the hair goes down as far as row 16.

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Love crochet amigurumi? I have more animal and free food toy patterns! Here’s a couple you might be interested in:

• Manta Ray Crochet Pattern (FIND ON ETSY)
• Elephant Crochet Pattern (FIND ON ETSY)
• Broccoli Crochet Pattern (FREE)
• Radish Crochet Pattern (FREE)
• Artichoke Crochet Pattern (FREE)