Arkose Duster Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

Arkose Duster Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern

My favorite thing about this duster cardigan is the drape. Even though I use worsted weight yarn, I’ve increased the standard “recommended” hook size and used a long stitch pattern to create a really loose and delicious drape. The duster provides cover and warmth, but is much lighter than a jacket. In fact, the duster is made up with 100% cotton which not only makes it machine washable but makes it breathable and super soft. It is named Arkose after a sandstone with a similar color as the yarn I used, but you can choose your favorite color for your version of this duster cardigan free crochet pattern!

Arkose Duster Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can also purchase the ad-free, printable pattern from my Etsy shop.

The 10-page PDF printable pattern includes lots of helpful in-the-making photos as well as a size chart that includes measurements and stitch counts for all the different sizes. The size chart and related tips show you how to customize the sizes to fit you perfectly. Whether you want the length longer, the sleeves shorter, the body wider – it’s all there!

Otherwise, let’s get to the Arkose Duster Cardigan free crochet pattern right here and now!

Arkose Duster Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern Preview Image

Gauge:

4”x4” = 13 stitches x 5 rows of double crochet.

I encourage you to make a small rectangle swatch to be sure your gauge is correct. It’s also a good idea to measure now and again and try it on as you go along. This will ensure your duster will fit right when it’s done! This cardigan has a lot of drape and flexibility so gauge is a general guideline.

Sizing:

This pattern is written in size XS with sizes S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL & 5XL following in parenthesis like this: XS(S, M, L, XL)(2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). The size can be easily modified by taking your measurements and adjusting the number of stitches or rows. The model pictured is wearing size XS with height 5’4 and a bust of 33″.

TIP: The written pattern also includes a detail sizing grid with measurements in inches and the number of rows and stitches for each size. Using the sizing grid compared to your measurements will allow you to easily customize the coverup to your exact measurements.

Length Measurement:

XS: 42″
S: 43.2″
M: 45″
L: 46.5″
XL: 48″
2XL: 49.5″
3XL: 51″
4XL: 52.5″
5XL: 54″

Bust Measurement: the bust measurements here are based on the cardigan laying flat and closed. Just remember when you wear it, it will add several inches across the front because it will be worn open (as pictured). So, don’t let these measurements throw you off because they will definitely “look” too tight.

XS: 32″
S: 34″
M: 36″
L: 38″
XL: 40″
2XL: 42″
3XL: 44″
4XL: 46″
5XL: 48″

Arkose Duster Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern Image 6

Materials you will need for the Arkose Duster Cardigan free crochet pattern:

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
fdc – foundation double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
tc – treble crochet
[…] – number of stitches in row
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

Arkose Duster Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern Image 2

The Pattern

Main Body:

NOTES:

  • The main body is worked in rows, turning at the end of each row – the number of turning chains will be specified per row and will vary from 2-4
  • The turning chain always counts as a stitch
  • Wrong side (ws) will be indicated so you can keep track of the outside and inside of the cardi

Row 1 (ws): fdc 96(102, 108, 114, 120)(126, 132, 138, 144), ch 3, turn

Row 2: (fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st) x across, ch 3, turn

Row 3: (bpdc in next st, fpdc in next st) x across, ch 3, turn

Row 4-7: sk next st, dc across, ch 4, turn

Row 8: sk next 2, tc in next, tc in last skipped st, (sk next st, tc in next st, tc in last sk st) x across, ending with tc in turning ch), ch 2, turn

Row 9: sk next st, hdc across, ch 4, turn

Row 10-15: repeat rows 8-9 (ending with the hdc row)

Row 16-19: repeat rows 4-7

Row 20-27: repeat rows 8-15

Row 28-31: repeat rows 4-7

Row 32-39: rep rows 8-15, ending with a ch 3 rather than a ch 4, turn

At this point, the rest of the body of the cardigan is worked using dc rows. Soon, you will divide the rectangle into 3 section – 1 for the back and 2 for the front panels. You can easily adjust the length of the cardigan by adding dc rows before you do the dividing as just described.

Row 40-43(45, 46, 48, 49)(51, 52, 54, 55): dc in each st across

Divide work into 3 sections for back & front panels: The back will have 54(58, 60, 64, 66))(70, 72, 76, 78) st, each side panel will have 21(22, 24, 25, 27)(28, 30, 31, 33) st

Arkose Duster Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern Image 3

Panels:

NOTES:

  • You will now be working on the 3 panels as divided above
  • You will be working turning rows of dc
  • chain 3 and turn at the end of every row – the turning chain counts as a stitch
  • If you want the cardigan longer, continue to add dc rows to the panels until you find your perfect length

FRONT RIGHT PANEL:

Row 44-53(46-55, 47-57, 49-59, 50-61)(52-63, 53-65, 55-67, 56-69): dc in each st across [21](22, 24, 25, 27)(28, 30, 31, 33)

Fasten off.

BACK PANEL:

Rejoin yarn with a sl st in the next st marker for the back panel. When you make your first dc of row 44, be sure to not forget to dc in the st where you just rejoined the yarn with a sl st.

Row 44-53(46-55, 47-57, 49-59, 50-61)(52-63, 53-65, 55-67, 56-69): dc in each st across [54](58, 60, 64, 66))(70, 72, 76, 78)

Fasten off.

FRONT LEFT PANEL:

Rejoin yarn with a sl st in the next st marker for the front left panel. When you make your first dc of row 44, be sure to not forget to dc in the st where you just rejoined the yarn with a sl st.

Row 44-53(46-55, 47-57, 49-59, 50-61)(52-63, 53-65, 55-67, 56-69): dc in each st across [21](22, 24, 25, 27)(28, 30, 31, 33)

Fasten off and weave in end.

Arkose Duster Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern Image 1

Assembly of the main body:

  • Choose the side you want facing out, they will be very similar and it’s just up to you which side you like the look of better! But don’t stress about it, it’ll look great either way!
  • Lay the piece flat and fold the front panels inward to lay on top of the back panel, with the right side facing out.
  • Using a length of yarn and a tapestry needle, seam across the shoulders from the outside corner into the center using the whip stitch.
  • Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Ribbed border / collar:

Rejoin yarn at the front bottom corner (right or left, depending on if you’re right-handed or left-handed).

Row 1: dc* up the front edge, around the neck, and back down the opposite front edge, ch 3, turn *Remember, your panels have rows of hdc, dc AND tc. As you go along, be sure to place 1 dc in the end of the hdc rows, 2 dc in the end of the dc rows and 3 dc in the end of the tc rows.

Row 2: (fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st) around to the start of the other front edge where you began

Row 3: (bpdc in next st, fpdc in next st) around to the start of the other opposite front edge

Fasten off and weave in end. You’re almost there! All you need to do now is add the tapered sleeves to your Arkose Duster Cardigan free crochet pattern and you’ll be modeling it in no time.

Sleeves (Arkose Duster Cardigan free crochet pattern):

NOTES:

  • The sleeves are crocheted directly onto the cardigan
  • The sleeves are made using turning rounds, slip stitching, chaining 3, and turning after each round unless otherwise specified
  • The sleeves should have 40(40, 44, 44, 48)(48, 52, 52, 56) stitches around based on the sleeve opening.
  • Check the length of your sleeves as you near the end and add or subtract rows to achieve your desired length.

Rejoin yarn at sleeve opening in the armpit using a sl st and ch 3 which counts as your first dc

Rnd 1: dc in each st around the arm opening, placing 2 dc in the end of each row [40](40, 44, 44, 48)(48, 52, 52, 56)

Rnd 2-3(4, 6, 7, 8)(8, 9, 9, 10): dc in each st around [40](40, 44, 44, 48)(48, 52, 52, 56)

Rnd 4(5, 7, 8, 9)(9, 10, 10, 11): dc2tog in next st, dc in each remaining st around [39](39, 43, 43, 47)(47, 51, 51, 55)

Rnd 5(6, 7, 9, 10)(10, 11, 11, 12): dc in each st around [39](39, 43, 43, 47)(47, 51, 51, 55)

Rnd 6-19(7-20, 8-21, 10-23, 11-24)(11-24, 12-25, 12-25, 13-26): repeat rounds 4 & 5 [32](32, 36, 36, 40)(40, 44, 44, 48)

Rnd 20(21, 22, 24, 25)(25, 26, 26, 27): dc2tog in next st, dc in each remaining st around, ch 2 turn [31](31, 35, 35, 39)(39, 43, 43, 47)

Rnd 21(22, 23, 25, 26)(26, 27, 27, 28): hdc in each st around, ch 4, turn [31](31, 35, 35, 39)(39, 43, 43, 47)

Rnd 22(23, 24, 26, 27)(27, 28, 28, 29): sk next 2, tc in next st, tc in last skipped st, (sk next st, tc in next st, tc in last sk st) x around, ending with a tc in turning ch), ch 2, turn [31](31, 35, 35, 39)(39, 43, 43, 47)

Rnd 23(24, 25, 27, 28)(28, 29, 29, 30): sk next st, hdc around, ch 4, turn [31](31, 35, 35, 39)(39, 43, 43, 47)

Rnd 24-25(25-26, 26-27, 28-29, 29-30)(29-30, 30-31, 30-31, 31-32): repeat rows 22-23, except end with a turning chain of 2 rather than 4 [15](15, 19, 19, 23)(23, 27, 27, 31)

Try on the cardigan and decide how you feel about the length of the sleeves. From here, you’ll be crocheting the cuff which measures 1.5″, regardless of the cardigan size you’re crocheting. If you want the sleeves to be longer, repeat rows XS 24 & 25 (or your corresponding size) until you’re happy with the length, then proceed to the next rnd.

Rnd 26(27, 28, 30, 31)(31, 32, 32, 33): sk 1st st, hdc2tog around, ch 3, turn [16](16, 18, 18, 20)(20, 22, 22, 24)

Rnd 27(28, 29, 31, 32)(32, 33, 33, 34): dc in each st around, ch 3, turn [16](16, 18, 18, 20)(20, 22, 22, 24)

Rnd 28(29, 30, 32, 33)(33, 34, 34, 35): (fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st) x around [16](16, 18, 18, 20)(20, 22, 22, 24)

Rnd 29(30, 31, 33, 34)(34, 35, 35, 36): (bpdc in next st, fpdc in next st) x around [16](16, 18, 18, 20)(20, 22, 22, 24)

Repeat with the other sleeve. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Try on your hard work, and go grab your drink. Well done – enjoy your new Arkose Duster Cardigan!

Please post your pictures on Instagram and tag me @offthebeatenhook!

Arkose Duster Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern Resource Library Graphic
This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects your cost. These partnerships help me support my small business and allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

Want more free crochet patterns? Check these out!

Pua Poa Beach Swimsuit Coverup Crochet Pattern Image 5

Pua Poa Beach Swimsuit Coverup Free Crochet Pattern

Here’s my alibi regarding the origins of the Pua Poa Beach Swimsuit Coverup free crochet pattern. I absolutely could not find the perfect beach swimsuit coverup. And since I was on an extended stay in Kauai, Hawaii, with 80% of my days spent wearing a swimsuit, this was legitimate reason for panic. I knew exactly what I was looking for and I COULD NOT FIND IT. And once I get something in my head, I will settle for nothing less.

Is that a good thing or a bad thing?

The verdict’s still out on that one. Anyway, I finally just made one for myself. Enter: the Pua Poa Beach Swimsuit Coverup. Named after my favorite beach in Kauai, I’ve finally found exactly what I was looking for. And for you, obviously also looking for the perfect swimsuit coverup – look no further. Maybe this is exactly what you wanted too.

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. I also have a printable version of the pattern, complete with several in-the-making photos, lots of helpful tips and a sizing grid so you can customize to your exact measurements. You can find the ad-free, printable pattern of the Pua Poa Beach Swimsuit Coverup in my Etsy shop here.

Pua Poa Swimsuit Coverup Pattern Preview Image

Gauge:

4”x4” = 8 stitches x 8 rows (1 stitch = dc + ch)

I encourage you to make a small rectangle swatch to be sure your gauge is correct. It’s also a good idea to measure now and again and try it on as you go along. This will ensure your Pua Poa Beach Swimsuit Coverup will fit right when it’s done! This coverup has a lot of drape and flexibility so gauge is a general guideline.

Sizing:

This pattern is written in size XS with sizes S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL & 5XL following in parenthesis like this: XS(S, M, L, XL)(2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). The size can be easily modified by taking your measurements and adjusting the number of stitches or rows. The model pictured is wearing size XS with height 5’4 and a bust of 33″.

TIP: The written pattern also includes a detail sizing grid with measurements in inches and the number of rows and stitches for each size. Using the sizing grid compared to your measurements will allow you to easily customize the coverup to your exact measurements.

Length: shoulder to hem front / shoulder to hem back:

XS: 28″ / 34″
S: 29″ / 35″
M: 30″ / 36″
L: 31″ / 37″
XL: 32″ / 38″
2XL: 33″ / 39″
3XL: 34″ / 40″
4XL: 35″ / 41″
5XL: 36″ / 42″

Bust:

XS: 36″
S: 40″
M: 44″
L: 48″
XL: 52″
2XL: 56″
3XL: 60″
4XL: 64″
5XL: 68″

Pua Poa Beach Swimsuit Coverup Pattern Pinterest Pin

Materials you will need:

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
fdc – foundation double crochet
dc – double crochet
[…] – number of stitches in row
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

The Pattern

Panel – Make 2:

NOTES:

  • The coverup is crocheted in turning rows, lengthwise from top to bottom.
  • The turning chain of 3 counts as your first dc stitch of each row
  • You will crochet 2 sides and then seam them together, leaving a hole in the middle for your head

Row 1: FDC 216(218, 220, 222, 224)(226, 228, 230, 232), ch 3, turn

Row 2: sk next st, (dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1) x across, ch 3, turn

Row 3: (dc in next ch sp, ch 1) x across

Pua Poa Beach Swimsuit Coverup Crochet Pattern Image 9

Row 4-17(21, 25, 29, 33)(37, 41, 45, 49): repeat row 3, ch 2, turn

Row 18(22, 26, 30, 34)(38, 42, 46, 50): dc in each st across

Fasten off and weave in end. Just one more step and you’re done with your Pua Poa Beach Swimsuit Coverup free crochet pattern!

Pua Poa Beach Swimsuit Coverup Crochet Pattern Image 7

CROCHET CORD BELT:

NOTES:

  • There are plenty of youtube tutorials on this if the written instructions don’t do it for you!

Cut a length of 270″(294, 318, 342, 366)(390, 414, 438, 462) of yarn. In general, you’ll want about 6 times the amount of yarn as the length of belt you want. The belt sizes for the above yarn lengths are approximately 45″(49″, 53″, 57″, 61″)(65″, 69″, 73″, 77″). You’ll have the working end which you’ll yarn over as usual. Then, you’ll have a section of yarn hanging forward which you’ll wrap around the hook from front to back before yarning over.

Holding the yarn in the middle of the length, secure the yarn to your hook with a slip knot. Then, take the front yarn and wrap it over the hook from front to back. Then, take the working end of your yarn, yarn over the hook and pull through both loops on the hook. Repeat for the entire length of yarn. When you get to the end, pull both ends of the yarn through the final loop to secure.

Pua Poa Beach Swimsuit Coverup Crochet Pattern Image 6

ASSEMBLY:

CENTER SEAMING

  • Lay the panels lengthwise, side by side with the final dc row in the middle together, and row 1 of FDC on the outside.
  • Choose which side you want to be the wrong side and be sure it is facing out
  • From the edge of the coverup, moving toward the center, seam the sides together by passing the tapestry needle through the back two loops only of each side for 20″(S, M, L, XL)(2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). This will be the front of the coverup. Secure and weave in end.
  • Repeat on the opposite end, for 27″(S, M, L, XL)(2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). This will be the back of the coverup. Secure and weave in end.
  • You are done with the center seam. The hole in the middle is where your head will go.
Pua Poa Beach Swimsuit Coverup Pattern Resource Library Graphic

SIDE SEAMING

  • Fold the coverup in half from top to bottom (still wrong side out), leaving a 6″(S, M, L, XL)(2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) off-set between the front and back, with the back being the longer side. Alternatively, decide how much longer you want the back to be (if any) and arrange the garment as-so right now.
  • Measure 7″(S, M, L, XL)(2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) from the shoulder. This will be the arm opening. Introduce your tapestry needle at the end of this measurement and whip stitch through 3 stitches down towards the hem.
  • From here, count 14 stitches down and whip stitch through the next 3 stitches.
  • Repeat step 3 until you get to the end of the side seam, allowing for a final gap on the outer thigh
  • Weave in all ends.
  • Weave the belt through every other loop around the middle of the coverup at the waist height you like!
  • Try on the cover-up and flaunt your gorgeous body!
Pua Poa Beach Swimsuit Coverup Crochet Pattern Image 3

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects your cost. These partnerships help me support my small business and allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

Want more free crochet patterns? Check these out!

Rainbow Love Crop Top Free Crochet Pattern Image 2

Rainbow Love Crop Top Free Crochet Pattern

Rainbows + crochet. This might actually be the new definition of joy. The amount of happiness – almost giddiness – I experienced while making this rainbow love crop top is the epitome of why I crochet. I love it so much. The combination of the colors of the rainbow was so fun to work with. I’ve certainly never designed anything so colorful and bright as this rainbow love crop top free crochet pattern!

I hope you love it as much as I do!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. I also have a printable version of the pattern, complete with 4 pages of in-the-making photos, lots of helpful tips and a sizing grid so you can customize to your exact measurements. You can find the ad-free, printable pattern of the Rainbow Love Crop Top in my Etsy shop here.

Rainbow Love Crop Top Pattern Preview Image

Gauge:

4”x4” = 20 stitches x 11 rows

I encourage you to make a small rectangle swatch to be sure your gauge is correct. It’s also a good idea to measure now and again and try on the crop top as you go along. This will ensure it will fit right when it’s done!

Sizing:

This pattern is written in size XS with sizes S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL & 5XL following in parenthesis like this: XS(S, M, L, XL)(2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). The size can be easily modified by taking your measurements and adjusting the number of stitches or rows. Use this sizing grid and the gauge above to determine your custom measurements. The model pictured is wearing size XS with a bust of 33″.

Length (shoulder to hem):

XS: 15.5″
S: 17″
M: 18.5″
L: 19.5″
XL: 21″
2XL: 22″
3XL: 23″
4XL: 24.5″
5XL: 26″

Width/Bust:

XS: 32″
S: 36″
M: 40″
L: 44″
XL: 48.5″
2XL: 53″
3XL: 57.5″
4XL: 62″
5XL: 66″

Rainbow Love Crop Top Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Pin

Materials you will need:

  • 100% Organic Cotton Yarn | Weight 3/DK Light Worsted
    • Colors & Number of skeins:
      • Off White – x2(2, 3, 3, 3)(4, 4, 4, 5)
      • Red – x1(1, 2, 2, 2)(3, 3, 3, 4)
      • Orange – x1(1, 1, 2, 2)(2, 3, 3, 3)
      • Yellow – x1(1, 1, 2, 2)(2, 3, 3, 3)
      • Green – x1(1, 1, 2, 2)(2, 2, 3, 3)
      • Blue – x1(1, 1, 2, 2)(2, 3, 3, 3)
      • Purple – x1(1, 1, 1, 2)(2, 2, 2, 3)
  • Hook: 4.5 mm
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Stitch Markers
  • Scissors

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
hk – hook
sl st – slip stitch
hdc – half double crochet
BLO – back loop only
[…] – number of stitches in row
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

The Pattern

Panel – Make 2:

IMPORTANT NOTES:

  • The crop top is crocheted by making two identical panels and then seaming them together
  • The crop top is made in rows of half double crochet through the back loop only which is what creates the ribbing
  • Chain 1 and turn at the end of every row unless otherwise noted
  • The last stitch of every row is made through both loops of the stitch versus just the back loop
  • COLOR CHANGING:
    • Color changing always happens at the neckline (versus the bottom hem)
    • Leave yarn tails during color changing which will be used to clean up the neckline by a row of slip stitches during assembly
    • For one panel, leave long STARTING tails. For the second panel, leave long END tails during your color changes. This way, as you slip stitch around the neckline during assembly, the long tail will always be available to you at the start of each color as you work your way around.

With off-white yarn, begin by making a chain of 47(50, 53, 56, 59, 62, 65, 68, 71)

Row 1: hdc in the 2nd ch from the hk and in each ch thereafter [46](49, 52, 55, 58, 61, 64, 67, 70)

Row 2(2-4, 2-6, 2-8, 2-10)(2-12, 2-14, 2-16, 2-18): BLO hdc in each st across until the last st, hdc in the last st, ch 3 [46 + 3 chs](49, 52, 55, 58, 61, 64, 67, 70)(+ 3 chs)

ARMPIT INCREASE:

Row 3(5, 7, 9, 11)(13, 15, 17, 19): hdc in the 2nd ch from the hk and in the next ch, BLO hdc in each st across until the last st, hdc in the last st [48](51, 54, 57, 60)(63, 66, 69, 72)

Row 4(6, 8, 10, 12)(14, 16, 18, 20): BLO hdc in each st across until the last st, hdc in the last st, ch 5 [48 + 5 chs](51, 54, 57, 60, 63, 66, 69, 72)(+ 5 chs)

Row 5(7, 9, 11, 13)(15, 17, 19, 21): hdc in the 2nd ch from the hk and in the next 3 ch, BLO hdc in each st across until the last st, hdc in the last st [52](55, 58, 61, 64)(67, 70, 73, 76)

Row 6(8, 10, 12, 14)(16, 18, 20, 22): BLO hdc in each st across until the last st, hdc in the last st, ch 7 [52 + 7 chs](55, 58, 61, 64)(67, 70, 73, 76)(+ 7 chs)

Row 7(9, 11, 13, 15)(17, 19, 21, 23): hdc in the 2nd ch from the hk and in the next 5 ch, BLO hdc in each st across until the last st, hdc in the last st [58](61, 64, 67, 70)(73, 76, 79, 82)

FIRST STRAP:

Row 8(10, 12, 14, 16)(18, 20, 22, 24): BLO hdc in each st across until the last st, hdc in the last st, ch 21(26, 29, 32, 35)(38, 41, 44, 47) [58 + 21 chs for strap](61+26chs, 64+29chs, 67+32chs, 70+35chs) (73+38chs, 76+41chs, 79+44chs, 82+47chs)

Row 9(11, 13, 15, 17)(19, 21, 23, 25): hdc in the 2nd ch from the hk and in each remaining ch, BLO hdc in each st across until the last st, hdc in the last st [78](86, 92, 98, 104)(110, 116, 122, 128)

Row 10-11(12-13, 14-15, 16-19, 18-21)(20-23, 22-25, 24-29, 26-31): BLO hdc in each st across until the last st, hdc in the last st [78](86, 92, 98, 104)(110, 116, 122, 128)

Rainbow Love Crop Top Free Crochet Pattern Image 7

NECKLINE DECREASE:

Row 12(14, 16, 20, 22)(24, 26, 30, 32): BLO hdc in the next 57(60, 63, 66, 69)(72, 75, 78, 81) st, hdc in the next st (leave the rest of the st unworked) [58](61, 64, 67, 70)(73, 76, 79, 82)

Row 13(15, 17, 21, 23)(25, 27, 31, 33): BLO hdc in each st across until the last st, hdc in the last st [58](61, 64, 67, 70)(73, 76, 79, 82)

Row 14(16, 18, 22, 24)(26, 28, 32, 34): BLO hdc across until 4 st remain, hdc in the next st [55] (58, 61, 64, 67)(70, 73, 76, 79)

Row 15(17, 19, 23, 25)(27, 29, 33, 35): BLO hdc across until last st, hdc in last st [55](58, 61, 64, 67) (70, 73, 76, 79)

Row 16(18, 20, 24, 26)(28, 30, 34, 36): BLO hdc across until 4 st remain, hdc in the next st [52](55, 58, 61, 64)(67, 70, 73, 76)

Switch to red yarn.

Row 17(19, 21, 25, 27)(29, 31, 35, 37): BLO hdc across until last st, hdc in last st [52](55, 58, 61, 64) (67, 70, 73, 76)

Row 18(20, 22, 26, 28)(30, 32, 36, 38): BLO hdc across until 4 st remain, hdc in the next st [49](52, 55, 58, 61)(64, 67, 70, 73)

Row 19(21, 23, 27, 29)(31, 33, 37, 39): BLO hdc across until last st, hdc in last st [49](52, 55, 58, 61) (64, 67, 70, 73)

Row 20(22, 24, 28, 30)(32, 34, 38, 40): BLO hdc across until 4 st remain, hdc in the next st [46](49, 52, 55, 58)(61, 64, 67, 70)

Row 21-24(23-28, 25-32, 29-34, 31-36)(33-38, 35-40, 39-44, 41-48): BLO hdc across until last st, hdc in last st [46](49, 52, 55, 58)(61, 64, 67, 70)

  • Switch to orange yarn
  • Additional rows will be added in orange for sizes L-5XL before crocheting the neckline increase. Sizes XS-M will proceed straight to the neckline increase below

SIZE XS, S & M: PROCEED TO ROW 25 (NECKLINE INCREASE)

SIZES L – 5XL IN ORANGE: ROW 35-36(37-38, 39-42, 41-44, 45-48, 49-52): BLO hdc across until last st, hdc in last st [55](58)(61, 64, 67, 70)

NECKLINE INCREASE:

Row 25(29, 33, 37, 39)(43, 45, 49, 53): ch 4, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs, BLO hdc until last st, hdc in last st [49](52, 55, 58, 61)(64, 67, 70, 73)

Row 26(30, 34, 38, 40)(44, 46, 50, 54): BLO hdc across until last st, hdc in last st [49](52, 55, 58, 61) (64, 67, 70, 73)

Row 27(31, 35, 39, 41)(45, 47, 51, 55): ch 4, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs, BLO hdc until last st, hdc in last st [52](55, 58, 61, 64)(67, 70, 73, 76)

Row 28(32, 36, 40, 42)(46, 48, 52, 56): BLO hdc across until last st, hdc in last st [52](55, 58, 61, 64) (67, 70, 73, 76)

Rainbow Love Crop Top Free Crochet Pattern Image 9

Switch to yellow yarn.

Row 29(33, 37, 41, 43)(47, 49, 53, 57): ch 4, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs, BLO hdc until last st, hdc in last st [55](58, 61, 64, 67)(70, 73, 76, 79)

Row 30(34, 38, 42, 44)(48, 50, 54, 58): BLO hdc across until last st, hdc in last st [55](58, 61, 64, 67) (70, 73, 76, 79)

Row 31(35, 39, 43, 45)(49, 51, 55, 59): ch 4, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs, BLO hdc until last st, hdc in last st [58](61, 64, 67, 70)(73, 76, 79, 82)

SECOND STRAP:

Row 32(36, 40, 44, 46)(50, 52, 56, 60): BLO hdc in each st across until the last st, hdc in the last st, SWITCH TO GREEN, ch 21(26, 29, 32, 35)(38, 41, 44, 47) [58 + 21 chs for strap](61+26chs, 64+29chs, 67+32chs, 70+35chs, 73+38chs, 76+41chs, 79+44chs, 82+47chs)

Row 33(37, 41, 45, 47)(51, 53, 57, 61): hdc in the 2nd ch from the hk and in each remaining ch, BLO hdc in each st across until the last st, hdc in the last st [78](86, 92, 98, 104, 110, 116, 122, 128)

Row 34-35(38-39, 42-43, 44-47, 48-51)(52-55, 54-58, 58-63, 62-67): BLO hdc across until last st, hdc in last st [78](86, 92, 98, 104)(110, 116, 122, 128)

Row 36(40, 44, 48, 52)(56, 59, 64, 68): BLO hdc in the next 57(60, 63, 66, 69)(72, 75, 78, 81) st, hdc in next st [58](61, 64, 67, 70)(73, 76, 79, 82)

ARMPIT DECREASE:

Switch to blue yarn

Row 37(41, 45, 49, 53)(57, 60, 65, 69): BLO hdc across until last st, hdc in last st [58](61, 64, 67, 70) (73, 76, 79, 82)

Row 38(42, 46, 50, 54)(58, 61, 66, 70):BLO hdc across until the last 7 st, hdc in the next st [52](55, 58, 61, 64)(67, 70, 73, 76)

Row 39(43, 47, 51, 55)(59, 62, 67, 71): BLO hdc across until last st, hdc in last st [52](55, 58, 61, 64) (67, 70, 73, 76)

Row 40(44, 48, 52, 56)(60, 63, 68, 72): BLO hdc across until the last 5 st, hdc in the next st [48](51, 54, 57, 60)(63, 66, 69, 72)

Rainbow Love Crop Top Free Crochet Pattern Image 12

Switch to purple yarn

Row 41(45, 49, 53, 57)(61, 64, 69, 73): BLO hdc across until the last st, hdc in last st [48](51, 54, 57, 60)(63, 66, 69, 72)

Row 42(46, 50, 54, 58)(62, 65, 70, 74): BLO hdc across until the last 3 st, hdc in the next st [46](49, 52, 55, 58)(61, 64, 67, 70)

Row 43(47-49, 51-55, 55-61, 59-67)(63-73, 66-79, 71-85, 75-91): BLO hdc across until the last st, hdc in last st [46](49, 52, 55, 58)(61, 64, 67, 70)

Fasten off.

Rainbow Love Crop Top Free Crochet Pattern Image 8

Assembly:

  • Tie off color changes along neckline with a simple knot. Do not snip ends.
  • Place panels on top of each other, wrong sides together
  • Whip stitch along sides from the hem up to the armpit
  • Whip stitch along the top of the straps
  • Flip crop top right-side-out
  • Begin with the back green yarn and heading up the strap, use the yarn tails to slip stitch all the way around the neckline. Color change as appropriate with the long tails, to match the color sections with the slip stitches. Fasten off.
  • Repeat the slip stitch border around the arm holes. Fasten off.
  • Weave in any remaining ends.
  • OPTIONAL: Steam block crop top to add more fluidity to the drape if wanted.
Rainbow Love Crop Top Free Crochet Pattern Image 4

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects your cost. These partnerships help me support my small business and allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

Want more free crochet patterns? Check these out!

Fern Shrug Cardigan Sweater Free Crochet Pattern Main Image

Fern Shrug Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern

This pattern uses a single crochet/half double crochet combo stitch that I love so much. I used this same combo stitch on my Tundra Cardigan which is also made with a rectangle for the main body. I loved it so much I designed this Fern Shrug Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern using the same stitch and extended it’s use onto the sleeves. This shrug is so cute and versatile. I use Lion Brand Heartland acrylic yarn which has lots of color offerings. Green is my favorite color, so I wanted to make a sweater using the gorgeous Kings Canyon forest green. The yarn is also super soft and easy to work with. Give it a try if you never have before!

The Fern Shrug Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern is written for sizes XS through 3XL and is ready for the ambitious beginner. I hope you love it!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the full, printable, ad-free pattern of the Fern Shrug Cardigan with lots of helpful pictures and additional tips on my Etsy shop here!

You can also help yourself to a printable, ad-free copy of the Fern Shrug Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern by subscribing to my blog and gaining instant access to my resource library which is full of printable patterns, printable resources (quick reference cards, guides, etc) and video tutorials.

Fern Shrug Cardigan Sweater Free Crochet Pattern Image 10

Gauge:

4”x4” = 15 stitches x 14 rows

I encourage you to make a small rectangle swatch to be sure your gauge is correct. It’s also a good idea to measure now and again and try on the sweater as you go along. This will ensure it will fit right when it’s done!

Sizing:

This pattern is written in size XS/S with size S/M, M/L, L/XL, XL/2XL & 2XL/3XL following in parenthesis. The model pictured is wearing size XS with a bust of 34″.

Length (shoulder to hem):

XS/S: 24″
S/M: 26″
M/L: 28″
L/XL: 30″
XL/2XL: 32″
2XL/3XL: 34″

Bust:

XS/S: 32-34″
S/M: 34-36″
M/L: 36-40″
L/XL: 40-44″
XL/2XL: 44-48″
2XL/3XL: 48-52″

I also include a detailed sizing chart for the Fern Shrug Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern in the ad-free and fully printable 7-page PDF pattern here. The sizing chart includes all measurements in inches as well in stitch count for all sizes for the bust, length and sleeves so you can easily customize for your exact size.

Fern Shrug Cardigan Pinterest Pin

Materials you will need:

  • Lion Brand Yarns Heartland
    • Kings Canyon – x6(7, 7, 8, 8, 8) 1506(1757, 1757, 2008, 2008, 2008) yards
  • Crochet Hook Size: 6.00 mm / US J
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Stitch Markers
  • Scissors

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
sk – skip
fhdc – foundation half double crochet
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
FLO – front loop only
[…] – number of stitches in row/round
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

The Pattern

Main Rectangle:

Notes:

  • The main rectangle is worked in rows, turning at the end of each row
  • The turning chain does not count as a stitch
  • Wrong side (ws) is where the beginning and ending tails are on the side of your dominant hand when the rectangle is laying flat
  • Tip: the sc/hdc pairs are made into the sc from the previous row (versus the hdc)
  • Feel free to adjust the size of the main rectangle to best match your body. Use the gauge and the size chart on the printable version to determine measurements.
Fern Shrug Cardigan Sweater Free Crochet Pattern Image 6

Row 1: fhdc 124(131, 138, 145, 152, 159)

Row 2-70(73, 76, 79, 82, 85): ch 1, turn, (sk next st, sc and hdc in next st) repeat to end of row

Row 71(74, 77, 80, 83, 86): hdc in each st across

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Fern Shrug Cardigan Sweater Free Crochet Pattern Image 5

Seaming for armholes:

Lay the main rectangle flat with the wrong side facing up. The beginning and ending tails should be on the side of your dominant hand. Fold the rectangle in half hot-dog style (the longer sides together).

Beginning from the folded crease edge, measure 4.5″(4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5)and place a stitch marker. You may want to place several stitch markers to be sure your seaming will be accurate. Repeat on other side. This measured area will not be seamed together and is now the opening to the sleeves.

Fern Shrug Cardigan Sweater Free Crochet Pattern Image 11

Beginning from the folded corners (the opposite side from where you began measuring at the crease), use a tapestry needle and seam the edge all the way up to the stitch marker. I recommend using the mattress stitch for seaming.

Unfold the rectangle and lay flat. You can now see the rectangle forming the main body of the cardigan – the back, the front edges and the arm holes. Place a stitch marker where bottom front edge of the cardigan meets the back bottom of the cardigan. This is where you will begin crocheting the collar. At this point, I also place a stitch marker anywhere along the outside of the cardigan to mark the right side to avoid confusion before continuing.

Fern Shrug Cardigan Sweater Free Crochet Pattern Image 4

Collar:

  • The collar is made by crocheting turning rows of hdc through the front loop only, turning at the end of each row. This is what creates the ribbing.

Rejoin yarn at the bottom front edge where you placed your stitch marker in the previous step.

Row 1: hdc around the entire front opening of the cardigan, sl st to first st

Row 2-18: ch 1, turn, FLO hdc across, sl st to first st

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Sleeves:

  • The sleeves are crocheted directly onto the cardigan, using the same sc/hdc pair stitch as with the main rectangle
  • The sleeves are made using turning rounds, slip stitching, chaining 1, and turning after each round
  • Tip: the sc/hdc pairs are made into the sc from the previous row (versus the hdc)
  • The sleeves should have approximately 40(42, 44, 46, 48, 50) stitches around based on the sleeve opening.
  • Check the length of your sleeves as you near the end and add or subtract rows to achieve your desired length.

Rejoin yarn at sleeve opening as shown in. This feels like a weird place to start the round, but starting here will ensure the seam is not on the front of your sleeve, but rather underneath.

Rnd 1: ch 1, make 40(42, 44, 46, 48, 50) hdc evenly around the opening, sl st to first st in round – (you may need to try a couple times to get these stitches placed evenly around)

Rnd 2-41(42, 43, 44, 45, 46): ch 1, turn, (sk next st, sc and hdc in next st) repeat to end of row, ending in the last st of Rnd 1, sl st to first st in round

Try on the sweater and be sure you are happy with the length of the sleeves. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Congrats! Cozy up and enjoy your hard work. Let me know what you think!

Fern Shrug Cardigan Sweater Free Crochet Pattern Image 9

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase materials using these links I may receive a small commission which in no way affects your cost. These partnerships help me support my small business and allows me to continue providing you with free crochet patterns! Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your support.

Want more free crochet patterns? Check these out!

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free crochet pattern featured image

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern

I named this Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern after the color of yarn I used. Am I allowed to do that? It just fit too perfectly. And since the majestic Mt Rainier is just on the other side of this beautiful Washington State from me, I just went with it. Let me know if I’m going to get in trouble and I’ll change it.

I had a vision for this sweater from the moment I laid my eyes on this gorgeous and SUPER FUN yarn by Lion Brand Yarns. It’s next-to-skin soft and perfectly lightweight. My vision for this sweater had the following requirements:

  1. No seaming
  2. No turning rounds – only continuous rounds
  3. Puffed sleeves
  4. Slightly cropped

NAILED IT!

The Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern is written for sizes XS through 2XL and is easily adjusted if you want it more cropped, less cropped, longer sleeves, shorter sleeves, totally short sleeves, whatever you fancy. Super easy, super approachable. Absolutely ready for the beginner too!

Have fun!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the full, printable, ad-free pattern of the Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater with lots of helpful pictures and additional tips on my Etsy shop here!

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern Image 1

Gauge:

4”x4” = 14 stitches x 11 rows of HDC (3.5 stitches = 1″ / 2.75 rows = 1″)

I encourage you to make a small rectangle swatch to be sure your gauge is correct. It’s also a good idea to measure now and again and try on the sweater as you go along. This will ensure it will fit right when it’s done!

Sizing:

This pattern is written in size XS with size S, M, L, XL, 2XL following in parenthesis. The size can be easily modified by taking your measurements and adjusting the number of chains or rows. Use this sizing information or the gauge above to determine your custom measurements. The model pictured is wearing size XS with a bust of 34″.

Length (shoulder to hem):

XS: 19″
S: 21.5″
M: 24″
L: 27″
XL: 30.5″
2XL: 34″

Bust:

XS: 38″
S: 40″
M: 42″
L: 44″
XL: 46″
2XL: 48″

Sleeve Length:

XS: 25.5″
S: 25.5″
M: 26.75″
L: 26.75″
XL: 28″
2XL: 28″

I also include a detailed sizing chart for the Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern in the ad-free and fully printable 10-page PDF pattern here. The sizing chart includes all measurements in inches as well in stitch count for all sizes for the bust, length and sleeves so you can easily customize for your exact size.

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Free Crochet Pattern Pinterest Image

Materials you will need:

  • Lion Brand Yarns Heartland Tweed
    • Mt Rainier Tweed – x6(6, 7, 7, 8, 8) 1200(1200, 1400, 1400, 1600, 1600) yards
  • Crochet Hook Size: 6.00 mm / US J
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Stitch Markers
  • Scissors
  • Measuring Tape

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
st mk – stitch marker
sl st – slip stitch
hk – hook
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
BLO – back loop only
hdc inc – half double crochet increase
hdc dec – half double crochet decrease
[…] – number of stitches in row/round
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

The Pattern

Collar:

Collar notes:

  • The ribbed collar is worked in rows, turning at the end of each row
  • There is no right or wrong side
  • The ribbing is made by crocheting in the back loop only (BLO)

Start by chaining 7

Row 1-48(48, 54, 54, 60, 60): BLO sc in 2nd ch from hk and next 5 [6]

To close circular collar, sl st in 1st st of row 1, and ch 1. Make sure collar is not twisted, then, holding the first and last row together, sl st through front loops of last row to back loops of first row, along each of the 6 stitches of the rows. Do not fasten as you will continue straight away with the body of the sweater.

Yoke:

Yoke notes:

  • The yoke is worked in continuous rounds – do not turn at the end of each round
  • Multiple increases will be made as you work your way around. ALWAYS MARK THE FIRST STITCH OF EACH INCREASE WITH A STITCH MARKER. Each time you come around, an increase will be made where the stitch marker is. With each increase, always move the stitch marker to the first stitch made for each increase. This way, you will not have to count your stitches in each round. However, for reference (or if you prefer to count each round), you can refer to the chart on page 7 of the printable pattern to be sure your stitch count is correct every now and again. The chart includes stitch counts for every size and every row!
  • Before proceeding, slip the collar over your head and make sure you are happy with the size. If not, adjust up or down a size and then carry on.

Starting straight away from where you left off on the collar, ch 2 (counts as your first hdc)

Rnd 1: hdc in each st around [48](48, 54, 54, 60, 60)

Rnd 2: (hdc in next 5 st, hdc inc in next st) x8(8, 9, 9, 10, 10) [56](56, 63, 63, 70, 70)

You should now have 8(8, 9, 9, 10, 10) st markers along round 2.

Rnd 3-24(25, 27, 28, 30, 31): Continue to hdc around, placing a hdc inc where each of those st markers are. Continue in this way, moving your st mk to the first hdc inc st each time as explained in the notes above. [232](240, 264, 272, 296, 304)

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern Image 9

Splitting for Sleeves:

You will now split the yoke into the body and the sleeves. You will no longer increase in any stitches at all. However, because I like to play it safe, I used several small pieces of brightly colored yarn to mark where the stitch markers were in case I needed to back up and adjust the size.

Lay the yoke out flat. You will now count stitches to split for the sleeves. Make sure where you left off on the yoke is at the armpit of one of the sleeves. For each sleeve, count 48(48, 56, 56, 64, 64) stitches around for each sleeve opening and mark with a stitch marker.

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern Image 7

Body:

Body notes:

  • The body is worked in continuous rounds – there is no increasing from this point forward
  • There is no specific front or back side
  • Feel free to adjust the length of the Rnd 1-14(21, 26, 30, 33, 35) section if you want the sweater longer or more cropped. Just use the gauge to determine how long or short (in inches) you ultimately want the sweater to be.

Join the body at the armpits: pick up where you left off on the yoke which should now be located at one of the armpits, join the front to back where you placed your stitch marker for the sleeve opening, making a hdc. Continue around to the opposite armpit where you placed your stitch marker for the other sleeve opening and join front and back, making a hdc. Continue on…

Rnd 1-14(21, 23, 24, 26, 27): hdc in each st around [136](144, 152, 160, 168, 176)

Rnd 15(22, 24, 25, 27, 28): (hdc in next 15 st, hdc dec in next st) x8(9, 10, 11, 12, 13) [128](136, 144, 152, 160, 168)

Rnd 16(23, 25, 26, 28, 29): hdc in each st around [128](136, 144, 152, 160, 168)

Rnd 17(24, 26, 27, 29, 30): (hdc in next 14 st, hdc dec in next st) x8(9, 10, 11, 12, 13) [120](128, 136, 144, 152, 160)

Rnd 18(25, 27, 28, 30, 31): hdc in each st around [120](128, 136, 144, 152, 160)

Rnd 19(26, 28, 29, 31, 32): (hdc in next 13 st, hdc dec in next st) x8(9, 10, 11, 12, 13) [112](120, 128, 136, 144, 152)

Rnd 20(27, 29, 30, 32, 33): hdc in each st around [112](120, 128, 136, 144, 152)

Rnd 21(28, 30, 31, 33, 34): (hdc in next 12 st, hdc dec in next st) x8(9, 10, 11, 12, 13) [104](112, 120, 128, 136, 144)

Rnd 22(29, 31, 32, 34, 35): hdc in each st around [104](112, 120, 128, 136, 144)

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern Image 6

Hem

  • The hem is made in the same manner as the collar, except it is a few stitches taller
  • You will pick up right where you left off on the body, without fastening off

Start the hem by chaining 10

Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and next 8 st [9]

Row 2: sl st in next 2 st on hem from Rnd 22(29, 31, 32, 34, 35) above, ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to the bottom edge of the hem [9]

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to Rnd 22(29, 31, 32, 34, 35) [9]

Row 4+: repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around hem

Join first and last row of hem in same manner as joining collar. Fasten off. Weave in end.

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern Image 10

Sleeves:

  • The sleeves are made in continuous rounds – do not turn at the end of each round.
  • To adjust the length of the sleeve, add or remove rows prior to decreasing before the cuff is made

Rejoin yarn at the armpit of one of the arm holes. Secure with a slip stitch.

Rnd 1-40(40, 44, 44, 48, 48): hdc in each st around [48](48, 56, 56, 64, 64)

Rnd 41(41, 45, 45, 49, 49): hdc dec around [24](24, 28, 28, 32, 32)

Do not fasten off – you’ll continue straight away to finish the cuffs…

Cuffs

  • The cuffs are constructed in the exact same way as the hem – crocheting it directly onto the last round of the sleeve

Start the cuff by chaining 10

Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and next 8 st [9]

Row 2: sl st in next 2 st on sleeve from Rnd 41(41, 45, 45 49, 49) above, ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to the bottom edge of the hem [9]

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc BLO in next 9 st back to Rnd 41(41, 45, 45 49, 49) [9]

Row 4+: repeat rows 2 & 3 all the way around cuff

Join first and last row of cuff in same manner as joining hem. Fasten off. Weave in end.

Congratulations! You’re about to slip into what might end up being your new favorite go-to sweater!

And remember, you can always pick up a copy of the printable, ad-free version of this Mt Rainer Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern from my Etsy shop here! Thank you for crocheting with me!

Mt Rainier Tweed Sweater Crochet Pattern Image 8

Want more free crochet patterns? Check these out!

Yeti Sherpa Jacket Crochet Pattern Featured Image

Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Free Crochet Pattern

The Pacific Northwest has my heart and soul. I feel super fortunate to have been born and raised here. One of my absolute favorite things about the great PNW is that we legitimately get all 4 seasons – especially over here in Spokane. After growing up in Bellingham, I’ll admit that my first Spokane winter was a bit of a shock. Even though I grew up skiing on Mt. Baker and I had NO IDEA there was snow like THIS… COLD, light, deep, POWDER. On the west side the snow is wet and heavy, so skiing the Eastern Washington mountains was SUCH a treat. I’ve been hooked ever since. Inspired by the COLD snowy winters of Spokane comes this Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Free Crochet Pattern! Deliciously soft (like next to skin approved!) and legitimately warm (like 30 degrees F outside approved!), this jacket is perfect for cozying up in on a chilly winter day.

I used Lion Brand Yarns Go for Fleece Sherpa yarn. I’ll be honest – I was skeptical at first because at first look you think, “that looks like a shedding disaster”. But I was 100% wrong. This fluffy, shaggy yarn doesn’t shed at all – AT ALL. So don’t be deterred! I will mention, however, that you should be prepared for the fact that you cannot see your stitches. The yarn is so textured that you have to feel for your stitches. But don’t let that scare you – the yarn is jumbo and you use a big, size 15.00mm hook so you have plenty of room to feel for the stitches. You can do it!

I’ll jump right in to the free pattern!

This free pattern is supported by ads on my blog. You can find the full, printable, ad-free pattern of the Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket with lots of helpful pictures and additional tips on my Etsy shop here!

Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Photo 2

Gauge:

4”x4” = 6 stitches x 3 rows (1.5 stitches = 1″ / 1 row = 1.3″)

I encourage you to make a small rectangle swatch to be sure your gauge is correct. It’s also a good idea to measure now and again and try on the jacket as you go along. This will ensure it will fit right when it’s done!

Sizing:

This pattern is written in size XS with size S, M, L, XL, 2XL following in parenthesis. The size can be easily modified by taking your measurements and adjusting the number of chains or rows. Use this sizing information or the gauge above to determine your custom measurements. The model pictured is wearing size XS with a bust of 34″.

Length (shoulder to hem):

XS: 22″
S: 24.75″
M: 27.25″
L: 30″
XL: 32.5″
2XL: 34″

Bust:

XS: 36″
S: 40″
M: 44″
L: 48″
XL: 52″
2XL: 56″

Sleeve Length:

XS: 22″
S: 22″
M: 23.5″
L: 23.5″
XL: 24.75″
2XL: 24.75″

Free Crochet Pattern for the Yeti Sherpa Hooded Jacket

Materials you will need:

  • Lion Brand Yarns “Go For Fleece Sherpa”
    • Pearl Grey – x7(7, 9, 9, 11, 11) 623(623, 801, 801, 979, 979) yards
  • Crochet Hook Size: 15.00 mm / US Q-19
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Stitch Markers
  • Scissors
  • Measuring Tape
  • 4-6 large buttons (optional)

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

ch – chain
st – stitch
sk – skip
hk – hook
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
dc2tog – double crochet 2 together (decrease)
[…] – number of stitches in row/round
(…) x – repeat instructions indicated number of times

The Pattern

Back panel:

Front & back panel notes:

  • The front & back panels are worked in rows, turning at the end of each row
  • The turning chain counts as a stitch
  • There is no right or wrong side
  • You cannot see your stitches when using this textured yarn – you have to feel for them. As such, I recommend counting your stitches after every few rows to be sure you haven’t accidentally added one or left one out. You might also want to place a stitch marker in the top loop of your turning chain so it’s easier to find on your way back down the row. Remember, the turning chain counts as a stitch!
  • Feel free to adjust the size of the panels to best match your body. Use the gauge and the size chart guide above to determine measurements. By doing this, it’s super easy to adjust the size of this Yeti Sherpa Jacket Free Crochet Pattern to fit you perfectly.
Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Photo 5

Start by chaining 29(32, 35, 38, 41, 44)

Row 1: sk 2 ch from hk, dc in each st across [27](30, 33, 36, 39, 42)

Row 2-17(19, 21, 23, 25, 27): turn, ch 2, sk first st, dc in each st across [27](30, 33, 36, 39, 42)

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Photo 4

Front Panels:

Start by chaining 14(17, 20, 23, 26, 29)

Row 1: sk 2 ch from hk, dc in each st across [12](15, 18, 21, 24, 27)

Row 2-17(19, 21, 23, 25, 27): turn, ch 2, sk first st, dc in each st across [12](15, 18, 21, 24, 27)

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Photo 6

Hood:

  • The hood is made by crocheting a rectangle in turning rows, just like the jacket panels and then folding it in half, seaming it, and sewing it onto the jacket.
  • One size hood for all jacket sizes

Start by chaining 32

Row 1: sk 2 ch from hk, dc in each st across [30]

Row 2-12: turn, ch 2, sk first st, dc in each st across [30]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming along one edge.

You’re almost done making your Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Free Crochet Pattern! Now, just assembly and seaming left…

Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Photo 1

Assembly & Seaming

  • The back panel, front panels and hood will be assembled together first. Then, the sleeves will be crocheted directly onto the jacket.
  • I recommend using the mattress stitch to seam pieces together, but you can use whichever method you prefer. Just remember to be sure you are grabbing two loops over the tapestry needle when you seam together to ensure a nice strong seam.

Start by seaming the hood:

Fold the hood rectangle in half with the ends of the rows together, laying horizontally (hamburger style). Using the long tail, seam together back along the last row you crocheted. If you want a more rounded tip on your hood, cut in a couple inches from the end of the fold and crochet through the hood diagonally back and forth a couple times. Fasten off. Keep hood turned inside out for seaming onto jacket.

Now, lay the front panels on top of the back panel. Technically, there is no right or wrong side, so just choose which side you want to be the outside and make sure those sides are facing in. You will seam everything together and then turn the jacket right-side-out afterwards.

Next, seam up the sides:

Place a stitch marker to mark the arm holes. Allow 5(5, 6, 6, 7, 7) rows from the top to remain open for the arm holes. Beginning at the bottom of the panels, seam each side up towards the armpits, stopping at the stitch marker. Repeat with the other side.

Next, seam along the shoulders:

Work from the outside in, towards the neck. Seam together only about 2/3 of the way in towards the neck – saving room to add on the hood. Do this on both sides/shoulders. Fasten off.

Finally, seam the hood onto the jacket:

Be sure the hood is still inside-out. Line the hood up along the top of the jacket. The center of the neck of the hood should be lined up at the exact center of the back panel. The seam of the hood will then extend out along the back of the neck, around the top of the open portion of the front panels (the portion of the shoulder that you did not seam completely onto the back panel) and down along a short portion of the front of the front panels. Use stitch markers to line up the hood in the way it is described here. Then, seam the hood onto the jacket.

Turn the jacket right-side-out. Lastly, sc a row around the border of the opening, starting at the front left corner, up around the hood and ending on the other bottom corner. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

Sew on the buttons: space buttons as desired (I spaced them by 3 rows in between) and sew them securely on. To fasten, simply slip them in between 2 double crochet stitches on the opposite side.

You’re done! Wrap yourself up in your cozy Yeti Sherpa Jacket Free Crochet Pattern and let me know how it went for you!

And remember, you can always pick up a copy of the printable, ad-free copy of this Yeti Sherpa Jacket Crochet Pattern from my Etsy shop here! Your support means so much to me and allows me to continue to provide you with free crochet patterns and resources, so thank you!

Yeti Hooded Sherpa Jacket Photo 7

Want more free crochet patterns? Check these out!